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nish

How to mount an EDIS wheel for $0.75

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I wanted to post my little finding just in case someone might benefit from it.

I'm running MS2 with EDIS and I have found a really easy/cheap skate way to mount the wheel. And before I continue I want to mention that this is NOT the best way to do this, rather an inexpensive way to test/toy with EDIS.

Parts required:

EDIS trigger wheel from a 1990's Ford Tarsus (or other vehicle with same part)
Update: HizAndHerz found that 3.0 liter V6's without a dizzy have this part.
This is the powdered metal one with all the holes in it.

Two 4mm x 60mm bolts (please double check this)

Two lock washers

Two 1.5 inch long roll pins with ~4mm holes


Assembly:

There are four inner mounting holes on the EDIS wheel, which are about 4mm ID.
The threaded holes in the stock 280z damper are 4mm (can you guess were this is going?). The holes in the damper miraculously match up almost exactly with the bolt circle of the wheel (less than 1 mm tolerance). I almost fell over when I found this. The roll pins are cut to length and used as spacers in between the wheel and the damper. This allows the bolts to be torqued down without deforming the wheel. I put lock washers under the bolt heads and use red locktite. Getting the wheel concentric takes a little trial and error, but can be done to a safe level (I have about 1mm of offset). This setup has been in use for about 2000 miles now.

They way the holes line up will allow the missing tooth to be positioned in one of 4 locations for TDC. I chose the position that would put the sensor in a perfect spot to use brackets attached to the AC holes in the block.

UPDATE: here's a front shot now that I'm tearing down for turbo fun.
EDIS_WHEEL_FRONT.jpg
VR_SENSOR_MOUNT.jpg
VR_SENSOR_MOUNT2.jpg

My brackets are strong but simple, made from angle iron and thick aluminum angle. A long piece of 1x1 angle is bolted to two AC bracket holes and extends to the face of the EDIS wheel. An aluminum bracket made from heavy c-channel is in plane with the wheel and bolted perpendicular to the first bracket. The aluminum bracket has a concentric slot to accept the VR sensor and allow about +-10 degrees adjustment. The way the brackets bolt together allows for 3 axis positioning. The brackets were made with a hand drill, hack saw and hand files.


Well, hope that made sense. I had some crappy pics of this and can't find them -EDIT- now with crappy pics - EDIT-, but if you can fab stuff reasonable well, then my description will probably get you well on your way to being an EDIS cheapskate.


In general, EDIS is easy as pie to setup with Megasquirt and I highly recommend it.

Other EDIS related pics:
http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/EDIS_COILPACK_MOUNT.jpg
http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/EDIS_MODULE_MOUNT.jpg
http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/GM_IAC_MOUNT.jpg
http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/THROTLE_BODY.jpg

Adam

Edited by nish

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Mario

It only sounds expencive if you don't think about what you're getting.

A solid aluminum trigger mount that will not vibrate and cause an RPM error..;)

If you've had the crank trigger kicking an error at 3500 RPM or higher and causing you to have to reset your SDs system to get it to run right then the mount seems cheap.

I'm sure the mount can be used for the EDIS system but I've not taken the time to set one up.

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I'll add a little more on the subject of cheap. Here's what I've spent on EDIS parts:

 

EDIS6 module = $6

VR Sensor = $3

36-1 Wheel = $4

EDIS6 coil pack = $8

EDIS6 wires = $6

_________________

Total = about $27

 

This was from my wonderful local pick'n'pull. They have one price for each basic category of part and it is almost always in your favor.

 

I made a poor man’s test bench to make sure everything worked. I mounted the wheel to a electric motor, put the VR sensor in a chemistry stand above the wheel, connected the module to the VR, coil pack and battery, and wrapped bare copper wire around the base of 6 spark plugs to ground them. This let me toy with the setup and get comfortable with the wiring, all for free on my workbench.

 

The really great thing was being able to test it on the car without disturbing the existing ignition. I mounted the wheel and the VR and just left everything else lying on the floor. I would switch between EDIS and stock just by changing spark plug wires. This can be done because EDIS will run 10 degrees adv. without additional input.

 

I was able to idle on the first start with MS2 and EDIS, partly because of the easy pretesting.

 

If you like the idea of EDIS, don't let cost concern you. It can be done cheap.

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<<>

As in Buffalo? Or are u from Erie? Or are u N of border? One of my former shipmates are from there (buffalo)..If you're still in PA there are a few people on here from that state...me included

I'm on my way back home to PA soon, but I'm from the other side of PA (allentown)

Z is gonna get the shakedown cruise of it's life in 3.5 weeks.....3100 miles.

EDIS sounds awesome...I'll definitely try it out...maybe even try EDIS-8 on my skylark when I get home!

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twoeightythreez:

 

Sorry, I guess north of Pittsburgh is a little vauge. I'm only about 30 min. north of the city. I did just bump into another guy via the craigslist, though I don't know if he is a member here.

 

Good luck with your trials.

 

Adam

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This is very interesting .I like the machined bracket for the pickup.At the stage i was building mine I did not knew about this website. No one in the area drive a L6 with aftermarket gadgets. I had my trigger wheel machined to push on from the engine side onto the damper.I positioned it and spot welded it in place.Here is a link to my setup.http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n41/SUNMASTER_2006/HPIM0014.jpg

 

What is the distance You set between Your pickup and wheel.Mine has to be at 0.3mm .

 

Thank You

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Here is my EDIS mount set up. I relocated the GM one wire alternator to the driver side for a custom radiator clearance issue, then built an adjustable bracket for the VR sensor. No price to put on it as it was just lot of head scratching and some machine work.

 

FWIW, It also has been my experience with the EDIS test bench that the VR to 36-1 wheel gap is quite forgiving.

 

 

 

Brand new OE Damper with Escort 36-1 on the front..

 

NissanDamperMedium.jpg

 

 

 

Mock up complete…

 

PackageMedium.jpg

 

 

 

Profile shot…

 

ClrncLarge.jpg

 

 

 

Finished set up…

 

VRDONEMedium.jpg

 

Plugwires.jpg

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I've searched, looked at all the pictures and am confused about the different mounting options for the EDIS wheel.

 

EDIS trigger wheel from a 1990's Ford Tarsus (or other vehicle with same part). This is the powdered metal one with all the holes in it.

 

This sounds like an easy option but I haven't been able to find the wheel on a '90s Taurus. Is it on the back side of the crank pulley? While bolting the wheel onto the crank pulley using standoffs sounds easy, I'm concerned about how reliable it might be and if it unbalances the pulley. Thoughts?

 

Looking at Paul's pictures, it seems he has done it two ways 1) machined the outer pulley so that the Escort wheel press fits on the front, and 2) bolted the wheel on the front without messing with the outer pulley. Maybe I'm looking at the pictures wrong.

 

So which is the prefered way to do it? Thanks.

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Looking at Paul's pictures, it seems he has done it two ways 1) machined the outer pulley so that the Escort wheel press fits on the front, and 2) bolted the wheel on the front without messing with the outer pulley. Maybe I'm looking at the pictures wrong.

 

Speaking for Paul since is his temporarly unavailable... yes, he did both... the fasteners are there for redundancy.

 

 

So which is the prefered way to do it? Thanks.

 

I prefer to do it the way I did in the above picts... machine the teeth in the damper. That was a 510 damper, BTW. Sadly, the Z's damper is more difficult to do this way.

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