How to mount an EDIS wheel for $0.75

[RTz]

The further the question above, how does one "align" everything in question? As in, the missing tooth on the pulley must be at "x" position relative to the sensor when "y" cylinder is at TDC (or some such)?

 

This page explains it pretty well...

 

http://www.megasquirt.info/ms2/EDIS.htm

[z-ya]

You basically align the sensor with the missing tooth when the crank is at 60 deg BTC for cylinder #1. Read the MS EDIS manual, its all there.

[award280]

What I want to know is, has anyone figured a way to mount the trigger wheel without deleting one of the pulleys. I'm fond of my power steering, and even more fond of my A/C in the dead of the Texas summer.

[z-ya]

It can be done, but is it worth the effort? Probably not. Just switch over to an 82-83 turbo distributor and be done with it. To do EDIS, you either need to make a thin trigger wheel to mount on the pully between the timing cover and damper. Or, mount it on the outside of the forward most pulley. In this case you will need to have the sensor stick that far out. I'm not sure if the radiator or fan will be in the way at that point.

 

What are your project goals?

[mikeatrpi]

Ron & Pete-

 

Thanks for the answers and link. My google skills also led me here:

http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/edis-hardware.html

 

Which I think applies to Megasquirt-I boards too.

 

Thanks again-

[award280]

My project goals are to eventually run a high compression turbo car. I would think that the control of the EDIS would be able to acheive this safer than running the turbo dizzy. Plus it is just cool. Maybe some sort of serpentine belt system could be made up instead of having the crank pulley running 3 belts.

[HizAndHerz]

FYI... After searching the JY several times for the EDIS wheel that Nish described at the top of the post, I finally found them on the 1998 Sable and Taurus with the 3.0L engine (not the 3.8L). My trouble was that I was looking at the Fords in the older model section (up to 1995) where it seems only the 4-cylinder engines (Escort) had the EDIS wheel.

[NZeder]

What I want to know is, has anyone figured a way to mount the trigger wheel without deleting one of the pulleys. I'm fond of my power steering, and even more fond of my A/C in the dead of the Texas summer.

If you want to run EDIS then you could try this - pickup a 81-83 turbo dizzy then make a custom disk that is 2 x 36-1 ie 1/2 has 36-1 the other 36-1 (remember the dizzy spins at cam speed not crank speed). Or add the 36-1 behind the pulleys as Nissan did with its Crank trigger setup of the early 80's (this is how my spare L28 is setup - still has all the pulleys for A/C, PS etc - this L28 was from a Cedric/280C JDM)

Here is a pic

[BRAAP]

This is “good” that you guys are thinking of new and alternative ways to integrate the EDIS trigger to the Datsun L-series. Please keep sharing your thoughts. One persons concept could spring board another’s idea an so forth, hopefully leading to an easy inexpensive, universal EDIS trigger set up. (i./e. this is how Mega Squirt came about in the first place. Bruce Bowling and Al Grippo’s open sharing of a DIY EFI concept that so many others contributed to for many years that is now what you see and use as “Mega Squirt”…)

 

In our efforts to adapt the 36-1 to the Datsun L-series, our goal is find/desing/fab a general universal 36-1 trigger that it will work with at least 90% of the L-series applications, from a bare bones 240-Z to a Power steering, A/C, equipped 280-ZX with 3 pulleys and all 3 pulleys being used by accessories. At this point, we haven’t been able to find that “one” solution that will work on most applications. So for now, we have just been custom building them to the specific application.

 

As for the dizzy mounted double 36-1 wheel, (aka 72-2 with the 2 teeth 180 degrees apart), Yes, the 72-2 wheel in the dizzy could work, but the VR sensor is too large to be able to read a 72-2 toothed that would be small enough to fit within the dizzy housing. For the VR sensor to be able to “pick-up” those teeth, the wheel will have to be so large to accommodate those 72 teeth. It would be a close fit in order to clear the cylinder head/thermostat housing, let alone leave you enough room to build a shroud around it to keep fingers out if. That is a GREAT idea, if there is a VR sensor available that could read those small teeth to keep the 72-2 wheel within the OE dizzy housing, then this would be ean xcellent option.

 

FWIW, We have tossed around the idea of mounting a 72-2 wheel on the cam gear itself and utilizing a “wet” VR sensor mounted through the timing chain inspection cover or fuel pump block off. (For the later heads the fuel pump block is cast shut so it would have to be carved out.) There doesn’t appear to enough room to mount one to the back of the cam.

 

I also had thoroughly looked into, and was making an effort to utilize the Turbo crank-damper mounted CAS. What I found is that a new 36-1 wheel could be fabricated to fit and work for the EDIS, though because it has be dished in shape to clear the pulley and front cover, it isn’t just a simple flat disc. The OE crank wheel won’t work as you have to turn the existing teeth off, (see pic below, pink dot in green circle would be the new OD), then carve in the 36-1 tooth pattern which now leaves the diameter of the wheel so small that the VR senor will end up rubbing the rear accessory belt, every time you have to remove that accessory V-belt you will have to remove and reinstall, set clearance, etc of the VR sensor, and if that belt does “let go” at any point for what ever reason, (how many of you have thrown a V-belt at some point?). I think it can be done if someone took the time/expense to have a custom 36-1 wheel built to replace the OE CAS trigger wheel. That would clean up the engine bay and be a nice tidy package.

 

 

 

Another Idea I would like to pursue is to utilize the flywheel for the 36-1 pattern. Either have the 36-1 pattern machined into the back side of the fly wheel itself with the VR sensor mounted in the engine/tranny separating/backing plate like the European Ford using EDIS-4 pictured below, or machine the 36-1 tooth pattern in the perimeter of the flywheel and have the VR sensor mounted in the bell housing.

 

Much of these alternatives have been discussed here on Hybrid and on Mega Squirts EDIS section…

 

 

[gearheadstik]

Here is how I did mine to retain the A/C pulley...for more info see thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103781&page=7&highlight=edis

[BRAAP]

Here is how I did mine to retain the A/C pulley...for more info see thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103781&page=7&highlight=edis

 

Looks good Aaron. Nice work. Do you have a machine shop at your disposal?

[redfogo]

Sorry to bump this but did anyone ever find where to get the EDIS trigger wheel. I am looking all over online at 98 Sables and Taurus for a trigger wheel that looks like the ones shown in this thread non of them look at all like the one in this thread any ideas. Looked both used OEM units on ebay and New parts on rockauto They all have a ring that presses on the balancer non of them have a configuration like the one shown in the image.

[Derek]

5 hours ago, redfogo said:

Sorry to bump this but did anyone ever find where to get the EDIS trigger wheel. I am looking all over online at 98 Sables and Taurus for a trigger wheel that looks like the ones shown in this thread non of them look at all like the one in this thread any ideas. Looked both used OEM units on ebay and New parts on rockauto They all have a ring that presses on the balancer non of them have a configuration like the one shown in the image.

Not sure what your budget is but I sell a kit that will work with some dampers. $220.00 plus shipping.

EDIS Kit

 

[zeiss150]

I can not figure out what size bolts go in the front of the pully.  I bought M6-1.00 and that only threaded in one thread.  So I'm guessing the pitch is off?  are they M6-0.80?  there were bolts there to secure the pully for the power steering pump right!?  So what size are they 

[Derek]

For whatever reason, the dampers I've worked with are 1/4-20 imperial.  The only thing I can think of since the pulleys were US dealer add on they specked out imperial.

[zeiss150]

I just tried 1/4-20 nope   why the F would they make a thread that can't be found  Why Nissan WHY!!!!

[zeiss150]

Alright!  The bolt holes are M6-1.0  the reason they wouldn’t work for me before is because they were so full of rust and dirt that nothing could be threaded.  I cleaned them out with an M6 tap and boom M6-1.0 works perfect!  Mystery solved!  

[Derek]

That damper is different than the ones I have. Also the rubber on yours is looking pretty tired. I'd keep a close eye on it. The good news is with the trigger wheel bolted on at least it won't fly through the radiator when it lets go:)

 

Glad to hear you got it sorted out.

[zeiss150]

So I got the 36-1 wheel mounted and my EDIS is working .  But... Does anyone know of an easy way to center the wheel on the damper.  Mine is off just a touch and I can see a wobble of about 0.02 thousandths.  It's not off by much but at 7k rpms that could be bad.   I was thinking of putting a bolt in the crank bolt divot and see if I can center it up that way.  I really don't want to pull the damper off if I don't have to.   any Ideas?

 

Thanks, Matt-