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R200 bearing issues.


wheelman

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Ok, I searched for this info but didn't find anything specifc so here goes.

 

I'm preparing to install the PowerBrute LSD in my R200 carrier so went to NAPA and picked up a new set of bearings. I had gone to the web site prior to stopping in so I knew they had a set for a 77 280Z. I figured they would fit the new LSD as everyone says just pull the bearings from the old one and have them pressed onto the new one.

 

The dimensions given on NAPA's website for these bearings are:

1.575" ID, 3.15" OD, width .778"

Part number is: BR30208

 

Anyway I get home and decide to check that they will fit before carting everything to the local machine shop to have them pressed on. They will not fit, not even close. :rolleyesg

I grab the calipers and find that the "nose" of the diff is actually ~1.77" in diameter.

My next thought is, check the website to see what they list for an 86 300ZX. Figured it would have an R200 with 12mm bolts.

They don't show anything. GRRRRRR. :fmad:

Out of desperation I go to Schucks website to see what they list.

I find the following:

1.771" ID, NO OD size and .748" width for pretty much all cars with an R200.

 

So now it's back to NAPA to return the set I bought and see if I can find another set before the weekend.

 

Has anyone else ran into this?

Is there a good accurate source somewhere on the internet that lists all these dimensions?

 

Wheelman

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I took apart a 3.7 LSD from a 300ZX and a 200SXT 4.11. The 4.11 had much smaller pinion bearings.

 

Which bearings are you replacing? Pinion or carrier? The carrier bearings were the same. Should be able to get the number off of the old carrier and reference that with a local bearing supply, or you can probably look it up at http://www.timken.com.

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Carrier bearings.

 

I got to thinking a little more about this and bet that NAPA is listing R180 bearings instead of R200 for the 280Z.

 

I'll see if I can find the numbers on the open carrier and reference those.

Thanks for the link Jon.

 

Wheelman

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The R200 carrier bearings are part number 30209C. The bearings NAPA gave you are for a R180. I haven't bought any yet for my Power Brute install. I asked for a good place to buy them and what they should cost but got no reponse here on Hybrid Z. Somebody must have a good source.

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Rockauto.com The link below to the bearings should work. The second one below is for the R200.

 

Danno74Z

 

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1209260,parttype,2240,partGroup,17

 

1978 NISSAN 280Z 2.8L 2753cc L6 MFI (H) [L28E] : Drivetrain : Axle Differential Bearing

 

Item Price Core Total

BCA Part # 30208 {Taper Bearing Assembly / Cone Length=0.7087" Bore=1.5748" Outer Diameter=3.1496" Width=0.7776" Cup Length=0.6299" Cone Radius=0.08" Cup Radius=0.08"}

Rear Axle; Nissan R180; (Qty 2)

 

$22.79 $0.00 $22.79

BCA Part # 30209C {Taper Bearing Assembly / Cone Length=0.748" Bore=1.7717" Outer Diameter=3.3465" Width=0.8169" Cup Length=0.6299" Cone Radius=0.0787" Cup Radius=0.0787"}

Rear Axle; Nissan R200; (Qty 2)

 

$38.79 $0.00 $38.79

 

Also Blackdragonauto.com has them on page 98 of the latest cat. for $42.95 each. These are probably Nissan replacement bearings but I would call 1-888-789-3746 to verify. Prehaps another group purchase :)

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If your bearings are good and not like most old R200's....worn, then you can use them. The problem comes when you remove them from the open carriers....they can get damaged. It always safer, since you already have it apart, to just replace them....especially since they are fairly cheap! Cheap insurance!!!!

 

Tom

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  • 2 months later...

I am installing new carrier bearings in my R200 due it seems, to an over-active electrical grounding issue. Now I get to find all the ground wire points to the chassis and install a new strap and a sub-system that routes all the points to the strap.

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A couple of the bearing manufacturers have a misprint in the catalog, BCA lists them correctly. The first set of bearings I received were for the R180, even though I asked for R200 bearings. I'll try to post the correct BCA numbers in the morning when I get to work and have my books.

 

 

Edit:...nevermind, correct BCA numbers are listed a few posts up.

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I'm also looking at replacing the bearings in my r200. Is it necessary to replace the pinion bearing while I'm in there? I'm replacing the carrier bearings, but not sure If pinion bearings are needed.

Replacing the pinion bearings is quite a bit more complicated than just replacing the carrier bearings. My experience has been that the outer pinion bearing just under the pinion seal is the one that goes bad. It is a ball bearing and relies on oil splashed up from the ring gear into the tube cast into the top of the housing to feed it. I think what commonly happens is that if the diff is run low on oil that bearing starves and then goes bad. I've taken a couple of these apart now and every single one has had a bad outer pinion bearing.

 

In fact I had a guy Dave swing by the house yesterday (Zsondabrain from classiczcars.com) and we were checking out his 300ZXT LSD for damage. The LSD was perfect, but when you spun the pinion it felt like there was sand in the pinion bearings. I didn't take the pinion shaft out, but that is EXACTLY what the other R200 diffs that I have taken apart felt like, although Dave's was a bit worse than the others. I replaced this bearing on my own diff for the same reason, and then later I believe I found that this bearing was NLA. I'm not sure on that, so you should get the part number and check with Nissan, but that is my recollection.

 

If that bearing is indeed NLA then I'm not sure what if anything can be done to fix the problem. As far as potential fixes to keep that pinion bearing happy, I have a couple of ideas which range from overfilling the diff just slightly to following bjhines lead and installing a cooler with the fill line plumbed into that tube that feeds the pinion bearing to ensure a constant supply of oil.

 

Getting back to the question though, I would pull the carrier out and spin the pinion. If the pinion bearings feel crappy, then I would pull the pinion gear out and inspect the bearings, especially the outer bearing, and try to buy that pinion bearing and see if it is still available. If the pinion spins nicely, leave it alone, because it is kind of a PITA to get the pinion shaft out and back in, when compared to the carrier.

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Wheelman - 24 hours ago I would have asked the same question you did, but after talking with the guy who does my trannies and diff, Blue (over on zcar) and TonyD, it seems that a bad ground junction (in the main wiring harness) can and does frequently cause enough volts to travel from the chassis into the diff. The carrier roller bearings have a large number of what looks like pockmarked scars. This was a result of arcing in the diff. There was nothing else wrong inside the diff but I will replace all the other bearings and seals.

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Honestly I have a really hard time with this one ???

 

Wheelman - 24 hours ago I would have asked the same question you did, but after talking with the guy who does my trannies and diff, Blue (over on zcar) and TonyD, it seems that a bad ground junction (in the main wiring harness) can and does frequently cause enough volts to travel from the chassis into the diff. The carrier roller bearings have a large number of what looks like pockmarked scars. This was a result of arcing in the diff. There was nothing else wrong inside the diff but I will replace all the other bearings and seals.
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GnoseZ,

Do you have any pictures of the damage?

 

I can't think of any way a grounding issue could be causing it. Maybe grinding due to lack of lubrication, but the amount of current required to make tiny spot welds on the bearing surfaces through a film of oil is much more than the electrical system of your car can produce. Not to mention the fact that electricity follows the path of least resistance and that certainly wouldn't be through the diff and the bearings.

 

I think someone is messin with you, maybe you're being punked!!!

 

Wheelman

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I'm reporting back info that was first provided to me by my drivetrain specialist, an ex-racer and someone who's been doing trannies and diffs for over 35 yrs. I too, had a problem getting my head around this issue and so I called both Blue and TonyD to get their take on the matter. They agreed it was likely a grounding problem and TonyD said it had happened to him. I frankly wish it was something else as I just don't need another fix-it project on my Z right now. My engine is out, my struts are off having the stub axles being pressed out, my front rotors are being re-cut and I'm trying to build a front airdam for my gnose and close off the intake to the radiator. Doing a re-wiring job is the last thing I had in mind at this point of the limited driving season we have in New England.

 

As to under lubrication, not a chance. I run my Z hard but I also make sure it gets everything it needs to stay cool, oiled, greased, lubed, etc. The bearings have small scars like etch marks.

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There's always the possibility I'm wrong. I just have a very hard time visualizing a scenario where the ground path for that much current would pass through the diff bearings.

 

If you can get some pictures I'd really like to see the damage.

 

Wheelman

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There's always the possibility I'm wrong. I just have a very hard time visualizing a scenario where the ground path for that much current would pass through the diff bearings.

 

If you can get some pictures I'd really like to see the damage.

 

Wheelman

 

I doubt it was "spot welding": but galvanic corrosion in boats due to bad ground is a tremendous problem and a stray current could easily eat the bearings. Turn it around thought and electrolytic cleaning of metal is the only way to de-crud your Z parts with almost zero effort.

 

Google it, you will find pages of information.

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