therustedgauge Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 When you have two cylinders (both exhaust im surE) #2 and #6; when they rattle, explained by a crack-head (literally) ex-drag racer (reason why he's an ex drag racer ) --- Anyway, kinda gives you the idea why i speculate the ease sound of this . . . . He said (obviously there is noise there or else this post wouldn't start this way) that I needed to tighten down the rocker arms and the valves ought to straighten out and quit rattling. how can I tell to be sure that if I tighten it down a little would be sufficient, or how much to tighten down at all??? Does it make sounds if its too tight? If it goes too tight, would it break the rocker arm ? I've never messed with this part of a motor before so I'm unexperienced with many questions because I hate to make mistakes. ESP when I depend on this to live! haaha. I've asked friends about running the car w/o the valve cover to get it right by just tightening ti (the rocker arms) down without wasting the VC gasket (because i never set the VC back on) . . . is this a smart idea, or would the compression even work right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
therustedgauge Posted May 16, 2007 Author Share Posted May 16, 2007 like I said, never messed with the valve system before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 Get yourself a Haynes/Chilton manual, it will tell you how to adjust the valves. Adjusting while it is running is something you do on some pushrod motors, but not on the L series. You'll need a feeler gauge and some wrenches, I think its a 14 and a 19, but it's been a while. It's not hard to do and is thoroughly explained in the auto parts store manuals. A good L series valve cover gasket can be taken off and reinstalled many times before it tears or anything. If you have a cork gasket on there you better get a new one from the auto parts store while you're getting your wrenches, feeler gauges, and manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clsatt Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 it's .010 intake and .012 exhaust. I did mine not too long ago and they still make noise, I like to tell myself it's just a noisy engine. it doesn't take too long to do and there is a good how-to on one of the ztherapy videos. chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thumper Posted May 16, 2007 Share Posted May 16, 2007 You need a 14mm and a 17mm. Also its .010 and .012 cold. And .080 and .010 hot. You want to do it hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 You need a 14mm and a 17mm. Also its .010 and .012 cold. And .080 and .010 hot. You want to do it hot. I need to double check, but I think you have the hot and cold backwards - it's not intuitive, but cold clearances are tighter. Also, I prefer to adjust clearances cold - it's definitely easier on the hands, and you are guaranteed of getting constant temperature from beginning to end. When you adjust hot, the head temp is pretty much always considerably cooler when you finish than when you started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
therustedgauge Posted May 17, 2007 Author Share Posted May 17, 2007 now, the book (haynes) says it requires a special torque tool from datsun to properly do this. Should I just blow that off and do as is with my wrenches? book says .07 and .09 via cold; Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
therustedgauge Posted May 17, 2007 Author Share Posted May 17, 2007 it's .010 intake and .012 exhaust. I did mine not too long ago and they still make noise, I like to tell myself it's just a noisy engine. it doesn't take too long to do and there is a good how-to on one of the ztherapy videos. chris ztherapy videos? enlighten me! i'm slowly becoming obsessed w/ this car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotfitz Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 ztherapy videos? enlighten me! i'm slowly becoming obsessed w/ this car. http://ztherapy.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveosupremeo Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 yes tim, you are right, the clearances are tighter when cold. although almost every time i have adjusted them cold they have been too loose when it got warm, so i have started with the .007 and .009 instead of .008 and .010 settings. seems to make just the right amount of noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 Word to all: Mechanical Cams and Followers Make Noise. If they're quiet, they're tight, and if they're tight, they'll burn... Learned that from VW's a looooong time ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
therustedgauge Posted May 19, 2007 Author Share Posted May 19, 2007 Well I've gone and adjusted as per the book; .10/.12 warmed up; seems to run better. Actually is an interesting thing to do for your first time I suppose, a good lesson that resolved well in my favor. Still a little bit of rattle though, but not nearly as much. But I could use an oil change anyway; so i'll get some lucas and that ought to quiet'em down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
therustedgauge Posted May 19, 2007 Author Share Posted May 19, 2007 I<3vdub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacecase70 Posted May 19, 2007 Share Posted May 19, 2007 yes you should run them @ .010 & .012 cold, On a warm engine .008 & .010 warmed up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacecase70 Posted May 19, 2007 Share Posted May 19, 2007 and i am obsessed with this car,lol! I love the way they drive, and the sound, makes me sport Wood!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedgato Posted May 19, 2007 Share Posted May 19, 2007 Just adjusted valves myself, had to de-tune for emissions. If they're quiet, they're tight, and if they're tight, they'll burn.re-tuned and still sounded a little clanky. That's just the way some valves are. I had heard the cam specs had something to do with this, not sure if that is true. I'd say adjust them and get used to the sound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted May 19, 2007 Share Posted May 19, 2007 yes you should run them @ .010 & .012 cold, On a warm engine .008 & .010 warmed up This time I double checked - per the FSM, this is backwards. .010 and .012 is the warm spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
therustedgauge Posted June 3, 2007 Author Share Posted June 3, 2007 Just adjusted valves myself, had to de-tune for emissions. re-tuned and still sounded a little clanky. That's just the way some valves are. I had heard the cam specs had something to do with this, not sure if that is true. I'd say adjust them and get used to the sound. Yes, i can see what you mean; i found the valves that were off, which was an intake and two exhuast valves on different cylinders; fixed that right up and the job was not all that hard; actually enjoyed doing it. Now i see a lot of gunk on the top of the cam area, sitting on the top of the head; gonna get some oil cleaner (or heck, a cup of diesel fuel) and flush this oil right out. . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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