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the turbo is coming along (pictures)


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i'm not great with turbo's yet, did u pick that turbo for the amount of fuel ur gonna be pushing or how did u go about choosing that one so it spools up nice and isn't laggy? All i base that on is my truck has the 5.9l cummins and when u go up in turbo's they tend to spool slower, but do cool alot better and have better top end. Unless u goto twins and get the best of both worlds

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my goal is 500 reliable hp because i want to get decent gas milage (like 20-25 mpg hwy) which with 44 injectors should be possible. im sure ill get bit by the hp bug and want more latter though (that damn hp bug!)

 

i base this on the fact that there are people over on the performance truck forums who are getting 18mpg with 9000 lbs trucks and auto transmissions.

 

oh btw its a Garrett GT4082 turbo.

 

44 injectors?????

 

How? Why?

 

Also, it looks like you are using the stock intake, how much of a cowl will you have to have to fit it?

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I'm pretty sure he meant only 8 injectors that flow 44 lb/hr.

 

yeap, thats what i ment. im not sure what you mean by ems. if you mean engine managemtn, the computer is out of a 2002 trans am and the harness is cut down harness out of a silverado.

 

i plan on using a t56 even though the harness i have is for an auto.

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44 injectors?????

 

How? Why?

 

Also, it looks like you are using the stock intake, how much of a cowl will you have to have to fit it?

 

 

actually the stock manifold fits but its very close. the stock alternator ont he other hand doesnt fit. it will hit the hood. if you look at the first pictures youll see i modified the bracket so it swings the alternator further out and down. it fits now with no problem.

 

funny thing is, i took all this time and effort into getting the stock 5.3 intake to fit but now i think im gunna go with the ls1 intake.

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I tuned on a 347inch Ford 302 based motor awhile ago. Eagle rods, Eagle crank, Ford race block, Hogans sheet metal intake, dunno what pistons or injectors. Through a Powerglide that we KNOW cost 100RWHP on a previous build (they had beforeafter dynos showing the loss) this thing made OVER 900RWHP. We did NOT push the envelope on boost. The chassis for this car was a fully built deal on a 95ish Mustang chassis - fully tubbed blah blah. Water/ice intercooler - blew water vapor out of the BOV and beaded water on the intake after every pull. On the street on slicks it would blow the tires off as soon as boost hit and traction couldn't be regained pedalling it. At the track the new power, having moved from a belt driven blower, was so great that it overpowered the chassis dangerously. They had to lower the boost a good bit and it proceeded to run single digit 1/4s last I heard, dunno' what the traps were.

 

Setup on that car was a couple of cheap MAC headers flipped side to side, some crush bent tubing, some U muffler clamps, a FlowMaster Y, and a turbo flange to mount it. I do not recall turbo sizing but not super huge - hell I made over 700RWHP on a 71mm turbo flow restricted by the cam. Others did 800RWHP with just swapped so you certainly do *not* need anything bigger than that.

 

My point is - do not go BIG! The Z is a shorter wheelbase and nowhere near as stiff, be careful as the torque will be stump pulling! You will make HUGE power pretty easily, the setup I saw did it on a dirt simple combo without buttloads of boost. When the power comes on it's going to be a rush so make sure it's pointed straight :-) The guy who drove the Mustang had a hell of a time controlling it when boost rolled up, glad it wasn't me behind the wheel!

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jonus, i too am using a 5.3 in my swap. i visited your flikr page can you elaborate on just how you modified that alternator bracket. i am also using a ls1 intake and used the 5.3 wire harness. it was your writeup that convinced me to use the ls1 intake because of the hood clearance. i am waiting for my J's car mounts so i have yet to fit the engine but i will be putting it in soon. i have to keep the 5.3 accessory brackets because they line up with the balancer and i am only keeping the a/c and air conditioning mounting, i was going to cut the alternator bracket anyway because i do niot need the pwr steering but before i cut it i had better find out how you positioned yours and how many bolt holes you are able to use.

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jonus, i too am using a 5.3 in my swap. i visited your flikr page can you elaborate on just how you modified that alternator bracket. i am also using a ls1 intake and used the 5.3 wire harness. it was your writeup that convinced me to use the ls1 intake because of the hood clearance. i am waiting for my J's car mounts so i have yet to fit the engine but i will be putting it in soon. i have to keep the 5.3 accessory brackets because they line up with the balancer and i am only keeping the a/c and air conditioning mounting, i was going to cut the alternator bracket anyway because i do niot need the pwr steering but before i cut it i had better find out how you positioned yours and how many bolt holes you are able to use.

 

ill get somemore picture for you soon. im using 2 bolt that go directly into the head.

 

Jonus do have any 5.3 info links? I did some searches on LS1 Tech and came up with alittle stuff. Seems like a guy over there has been making 600whp for a long time on a bone stock bottom end.

 

http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/

 

they have a great forced induction section specifically for the 5.3 and 4.8 engines.

 

for comparisons between all gen III sbc engines:

 

http://www.automotiverebuilder.com/ar/eb040538.htm

http://www.smokemup.com/tech/ls1.php

 

for the intake swap:

http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/showthread.php?t=359987&page=1&pp=10

 

although i dont totaly agree with the way they did it. im planning on keeping the 5.3l waterpump rather than swapping it out for an ls1 waterpump.

 

if you have any specific questions just pm me and i can likely answer it.

 

Any reason why you went with a Corvette oil pan over an F Body oil pan?

 

with the corvette oil pan there is more ground clearence yet they hold more oil. this is important cause i plan on putting my car very low. another plus is that it sits high enough (or alteast in my set up it does) to where the crossmember protects it from the road. keep in mind that im using custom mounts. i dont think you can use this pan with J's engine mounts.

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