ihatejoefitz Posted June 21, 2007 Share Posted June 21, 2007 http://www.turbomagazine.com/features/tur0801a01_1972_nissan_datsun_240z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted June 21, 2007 Share Posted June 21, 2007 Based on that article I'd say the center lock is a lug nut cover/hub cap. I'm pretty sure they'd mention it if they were actually spinoffs. I do recall about maybe 6 or 7 years ago hearing about a Hyashi Racing setup where you bolted this adapter to the stock hub and then the spinoffs attached to that. I recall it being expensive and rare and the wheels were 15" diameter and maybe 7 or 8 inches wide. I don't know if such a thing is still produced, but it seems a bit on the hokey side to me, I think I'd rather have separate lug nuts and focus more attention on getting the brakes right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kennysgreen280zt Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 I was working on a project to run the 993 TT rotor and the 996/boxter S monobloc caliper. I abonded the project along with a few other things on my car, but that is beside the point. There is enough room to run the rotor and caliper on the Z spindle. The hat I used to test fit was from a friend's Pcar kit for his audi. here are all the pics I took. I was planning on running the z31 5 lug hubs. I have a feeling with the hat ive got, and standard hubs, things would get close. The rotors are 322x28 IIRC. This set of calipers has to have the pad centering pins clearanced 1mm on each side to clear the rotor. It doesnt hurt the caliper at all. This setup was going to fit barely behind starion 16" wheels. This type of kit is very popular among the VW/Audi crowd. Rotors are $215 each on the net, and the pair of calipers usually sell for around $400. Anyways, I hope that info helps someone along the way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thanh Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 I was working on a project to run the 993 TT rotor and the 996/boxter S monobloc caliper. I abonded the project along with a few other things on my car, but that is beside the point. There is enough room to run the rotor and caliper on the Z spindle. The hat I used to test fit was from a friend's Pcar kit for his audi. here are all the pics I took. I was planning on running the z31 5 lug hubs. I have a feeling with the hat ive got, and standard hubs, things would get close. The rotors are 322x28 IIRC. This set of calipers has to have the pad centering pins clearanced 1mm on each side to clear the rotor. It doesnt hurt the caliper at all. This setup was going to fit barely behind starion 16" wheels. This type of kit is very popular among the VW/Audi crowd. Rotors are $215 each on the net, and the pair of calipers usually sell for around $400. Anyways, I hope that info helps someone along the way Let me know how that setup works out for ya. I got some 993 Turbo calipers bought awhile back got a good deal and never had the chance to check out the setup myself because I am very busy with the school/work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparks280zt Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 Let me know how that setup works out for ya. I got some 993 Turbo calipers bought awhile back got a good deal and never had the chance to check out the setup myself because I am very busy with the school/work. His post says he abadoned the project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted June 22, 2007 Author Share Posted June 22, 2007 great info - thanks all, I'm late for work but will post tonight... Our goal is to have the best brakes available, and the single nut holding the wheels on - that way for drives and shows we can stay with the knock off wires for a period correct look, but for track events we can go with something stronger with less rotating mass. The wires are heavy and an option that would allow us to quickly switch between wheel sets is what we would prefer.. otherwise we need to build a separate track car.. though that would be fun too lol Chelle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_H Posted June 22, 2007 Share Posted June 22, 2007 great info - thanks all, I'm late for work but will post tonight... Our goal is to have the best brakes available, and the single nut holding the wheels on - that way for drives and shows we can stay with the knock off wires for a period correct look, but for track events we can go with something stronger with less rotating mass. The wires are heavy and an option that would allow us to quickly switch between wheel sets is what we would prefer.. otherwise we need to build a separate track car.. though that would be fun too lol Chelle Chelle, I don't agree with your goals considering the use. You want the "lightest rotor" available. For any incremental improvement from unsprung weight - there are tons of other areas in your car which will make it faster. And the carbon brakes won't necessarily reduce braking distances - if any at all - they just improved unsprung weight. You can do a lot to the suspension to reduce that number - and avoid a costly, and not well proven on the aftermarket, upgrade. Some high quality racing calipers such as AP, Alcon, etc.. and some high quality rotors with a custom hat will go a long way, will blow you away as far as braking capability, and will fit well w/in your cost constraints. Pads will likely be the single biggest factor once you have a decent size rotor and caliper - not rotor composition. If you want the "ultimate brakes for the track" - build a dedicated track car. You likely won't have the rubber to take advantage of a serious brake setup anyways. Your car is beautiful and a testament to your fabrication skills and work. However, there are lots of areas you have already compromised to make it what it is - such as using a large V12, etc... Even on the best, fastest track Z car you can find - adding carbon rotors to that car won't really make it more than a tenth or two faster per lap.... There are areas where you can improve the car by 1-2 seconds a lap over what you have now. Having significant dollars available for upgrades is fantastic - but there is a smart way to spend that money, and I don't believe carbon rotors are the answer. If you want a center lock setup allowing your wire wheels or a track wheel - expect some significant cost for a BBS or similar track wheel with a custom spacer to allow the wire wheels to fit - changing the offset you currently have etc... Are you currently using an adapter to make the center nut work? If so, just unbolt that setup and then bolt in a set of rims which will work with whatever brake setup you end up with. Your hardest part will be making the small offset wire wheels work with a large brake caliper setup. I can point you in the direction of someone who makes adapters for the coleman racing rotors allowing them to work with the Z32 brake calipers, (and may have some other options as well - my setup was on a GT-2 racecar and worked well enough considering the power and rubber size - both large). -Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thanh Posted June 23, 2007 Share Posted June 23, 2007 His post says he abadoned the project. Oh I thought he was starting it up again darn! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted June 23, 2007 Share Posted June 23, 2007 And to touch further on what Bob stated, I don't think there's a huge performance difference by going with the Porsche brakes over say a properly setup wilwood/MML/AZC/Mike Gibson-Outlaw brake setup... If your goal is to lose weight in the brake system components, you can do it within reason by going with any two piece rotor and you can have custom hubs made for the center lock wheel design. That stated, Those hubs for centerlocs are not as light as you might think. Also, As Bob stated, Look at other areas to reduce unsprung weight. From a purely cost standpoint, you'd be better off with overhauling the stock suspension, and going with AZC control arms front/rear and their aluminum mustach bar, along with coil overs. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted June 23, 2007 Share Posted June 23, 2007 I have to say I don't think you're going to drop too much weight by changing control arms. Stock rear control arm weighs something like 9 lbs if I recall correctly. How much could you possibly lose there and maintain structural integrity? AZC's front aluminum arms might drop a lb. How much is a front arm? 4 lbs soaking wet? The brakes are a good place to drop weight. I think Austin (240hoke) has the lightest front hub/rotor setup I've seen. I seem to remember it being Corvette and the hub and rotor weighed about the same as a stock solid rotor. No kidding... Now THAT is a weight savings. In the rear there isn't going to be much that you can bolt on that is lighter than the stock aluminum drums, but you can drop a significant amount of weight in the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted June 24, 2007 Share Posted June 24, 2007 Rear stock arms weigh 11 pounds. The AZC arm weighs right at 6# without the sway bar links. Actually, I'm pretty sure that the aluminum hubs Jamie made to go with the Mustang Cobra setup are the lightest hubs out there, and MMLs hub is a close second... And I can weight the Mustang Cobra sized wilwood 13inch front 2 piece brake rotor for you, but I already know it weighs about 50% more than a stock 240Z front rotor... so you eat all the weight savings up with JUST ONE of those mondo rotors... Quite honestly, WHO CARES when you're doing 150MPH and need to stop... All you want to do is... STOP!!!!! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted June 24, 2007 Share Posted June 24, 2007 Rear stock arms weigh 11 pounds. The AZC arm weighs right at 6# without the sway bar links. Must be a 280 arm you're weighing. 240 weighs about 9 as I recall, but the 280 has thicker walled tubing and heavier gauge steel, more gussets too. bjhines did the outer stock control arm mod that I did which adds about a lb and a half and weighed his at 10lb 9oz with all of the hardware to mount it. I can run out to the garage and weigh one again if that doesn't sound right to you. Actually, I'm pretty sure that the aluminum hubs Jamie made to go with the Mustang Cobra setup are the lightest hubs out there, and MMLs hub is a close second... And I can weight the Mustang Cobra sized wilwood 13inch front 2 piece brake rotor for you, but I already know it weighs about 50% more than a stock 240Z front rotor... so you eat all the weight savings up with JUST ONE of those mondo rotors... Quite honestly, WHO CARES when you're doing 150MPH and need to stop... All you want to do is... STOP!!!!! If I recall Austin's setup with hub, hat, and Vette rotor was 13 lbs. I think that hub had studs installed but no bearings and races. I was pretty shocked when he posted a picture of the parts on a scale. When I weighed a stock rotor it was 12 lbs. Austin's rotors were drilled and I think they are 13" x .81". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2003z Posted June 24, 2007 Share Posted June 24, 2007 After having my own brake issues at the first track event I attended in my 996TT, I did a little shopping and got an education on the ceramic rotor costs... The ROTORS alone are a $5500 replacement PER ROTOR. Yeah, my buddy has a cayman with the ceramic rotors. He said if they ever need replacing, he will just buy a set of stoptechs instead! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS1 Cobra Posted June 30, 2007 Share Posted June 30, 2007 Pin drive wheels are a pretty straight forward setup. I'm using som adaptor hubs that bolt to the original flange where the wheel bolts to. The wheel nuts have an internal hex and a smooth outside and the act as the drive pins as well as holding the adaptor in place. You then need to get wheel centers machined to suit a pin drive hub. Many un drilled off the shelf wheel centers have enough material to allow them to be machined to suit a pin drive center. Quite a few manufacturers like BBS Team3 and others will do a pin drive wheel to your specs. Here's one of the rear hubs: Here's a front wheel with the 3 eared spinner in place. your Here's some Hex nuts for a change of look. Hope this gives you some ideas. Cheers Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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