aziza z Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 Like I said before I have done 3 dashes this way, while they would not pass for NOS they do look great. I did mine over a year ago and its still looks great. Try it for yourself before knocking is all I'm saying. Looks like a good deal compared to $800. I picked up the stuff to try it. I have an extra dash laying around. Ill let you guys know what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown77Z Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 The SEM bumper repair is now spread and dried on the dash, I'm going to go buy an orbital sander and sand it down in a bit, I'll post some pics of the dash after it is sanded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hailstorm Posted August 17, 2008 Share Posted August 17, 2008 So it did crack? yeah mine ended up cracking, but I probably didn't do it all that well... I'm just going to give in and get a full dash cover, they look great and you can barely tell that they're there... plus it's not that much more expensive than all the products you have to use to do this with... Oh and what I found to work much better than mixing the two products together for the bumper repair stuff, get a two piece epoxy product, it's immensely cheaper and works the same if not better because it's easier to sand down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyc Posted August 18, 2008 Share Posted August 18, 2008 i was bored with mine...so i chipped and peeled all the textured plastic off, then started fiberlgassing....i was worried about future cracking as well...but the fiberglass shouldn't fail for a really long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polarity Posted August 21, 2008 Share Posted August 21, 2008 Hey Bobby, can you give me a few tips on fiberglassing the dash? I've been looking on google and it seems pretty straight forward. Pull the dash, sand it down well with 80 grit, then with 150 grit..Apply resin/hardener mix. Smooth with 80 grit then apply again.. and again until it's how you want it.. then sand sand sand sand sand and paint.. Is it better to pull the plastic/vinyl off and use the fiberglass right on the foam? Thanks for the help -polarity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gman189 Posted August 22, 2008 Share Posted August 22, 2008 I am planning on doing this to my Dad's dash. The problem I have run into is that the previous owner had a dash cap on it and there is a bunch of 3m type strip calk that held it on. Does anyone have any tips for getting this off. I have used a plastic paint scraper to get most of it off but there is still some on there and the dash is so dry that I keep getting little cracks in it. Thanks -GB- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaspendlove Posted August 25, 2008 Share Posted August 25, 2008 great info. i will be using this technique soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted August 28, 2008 Share Posted August 28, 2008 I am planning on doing this to my Dad's dash. The problem I have run into is that the previous owner had a dash cap on it and there is a bunch of 3m type strip caulk that held it on. Does anyone have any tips for getting this off. I have used a plastic paint scraper to get most of it off but there is still some on there and the dash is so dry that I keep getting little cracks in it. Thanks -GB- 3M makes some adhesive remover that I would try. What I would not do is force the stuff off, unless you aren't worried about the plastic. If I was desperate, I would take the plastic off AND the adhesive, knowing that I would have more work to do to smooth everything out. Go with what seems less damaging first, then get more heavy duty. Judging by the restoration write ups that are out there. If you use the recommended products and take your time, I think your end product will be better than what you currently have. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModernS30 Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 Like I said before I have done 3 dashes this way, while they would not pass for NOS they do look great. I did mine over a year ago and its still looks great. Try it for yourself before knocking is all I'm saying. i sure am going to give it a try, and for the guy who neglected to buy bumper repair and got two part epoxy instead, ever think thats why yours cracks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshuadreed Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 NOTSURE - That's exactlty what I was thinking... The bumper stuff is meant to be slightly flexible so when the dash "expands" or just gets flexed for one reason or another the bumper stuff doesn't break. I'm deffinetely doing this! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernest Harmon Posted September 7, 2010 Share Posted September 7, 2010 I must say that the first Posts in this topic appear to have been well thought out and executed.From the durability standpoint I think you may have a very durable solution.These are my reasons for thinking this.The Great Stuff is a Urethane based product very similar if not exactly like the foam that makes the body of the dash.Great stuff once dry is still very flexible.The bumper repair has very similar properties as the vinyl covering of the original dash, when applied in this thin of a layer possibly more flexible than the original.The key to this repair being done successfully is how well you clean the area and prep the area to accept the repair.This is no different than welding or doing paint work.You must make sure that all armorall type products are gone from the surface completely.Next, sand the area well and bevel the vinyl and foam get all of the sun damaged underlying foam removed if possible to the back of the vinyl and scuff it up with 80 grit.This will give a better mechanical bond for the foam bridge or foundation as you may call it.I am not an upholstery guy by anymeans but the basic idea presented seems to be sound.I am however an Autobody school graduate and this is what I am basing my opinion on.Thankyou rigez for this post that may well save a lot of people a lot of money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erehemantresni Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 Why not use right stuff> it is an engine sealant that comes in an aerosol can> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernest Harmon Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 I doubt you can sand The Right Stuff product based on what the product is for.It is also probably a more dense product also.This is based on it being a gasket maker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 In my opinion the dash caps are tacky. Mine fit ok, but the glovebox doesn't fit right or match, I couldn't put any of the knobs under the steering wheel. The sides of the dash shoe from the side. I have my dash out for wiring and am really considering this or some other more drastic measures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernest Harmon Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 Here is a link to a similar process but using a dash pad filler.http://ezinearticles.com/?Dash-Repair---How-to-Fix-a-Cracked-Padded-Dash&id=1361270 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaaJeHaa Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 Ordered the SEM stuff needed from ebay now. Hope this would work, looks great though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagon jon Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 I think thats going to take no time at all to crack and be looking like crap again....... You try it! Tell us how it goes. Only "time" will tell, not derogatory remarks on ones world view about another's progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaaJeHaa Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 My experience: It didn't work for me. My dash was so dry and cracked that I coulden't even touch it before it was cracking even more. I gave SEM bumper repair a try, two sets for my 8 cracks, but my dash just startet cracking around the area fixed with SEM. My solution: Fiberglassed the underside and the top of the dash. Sanded that down, filled bumps with fiberglss bondo and sanded that. Then I went for the texture coating and trim black. Unfortunately when I mounted the dash "shell" to the bracket it got some tension and it cracked once more (close to impossible to spot). It looks ok now, but I will re-do it some time. Tip: After fiberglassing the underside, mount it to the bracket before fiberglassing the top, that will prevent any tension. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaaJeHaa Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 How come no one sells aftermarket dashes (just the foam/plastic wrap)? I really don't like the dash cap idea, hiding cracks/rust/errors isn't my way of doing things... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fauxre Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 My experience: It didn't work for me. My dash was so dry and cracked that I coulden't even touch it before it was cracking even more. I gave SEM bumper repair a try, two sets for my 8 cracks, but my dash just startet cracking around the area fixed with SEM. My solution: Fiberglassed the underside and the top of the dash. Sanded that down, filled bumps with fiberglss bondo and sanded that. Then I went for the texture coating and trim black. Unfortunately when I mounted the dash "shell" to the bracket it got some tension and it cracked once more (close to impossible to spot). It looks ok now, but I will re-do it some time. Tip: After fiberglassing the underside, mount it to the bracket before fiberglassing the top, that will prevent any tension. I had the very same experience with the SEM products. The final result looked like crap and was very brittle. So. I also went the fiberglass route. Here's a composite photo of the dash so far. Covering the dash with fiberglass cloth produced a very hard surface and no cracking when it was bolted in for test fitting. Not sure if I'll go with the textured look, paint or try to cover with some kind of material. Dan Juday has a very nice dash, with a smooth finish, painted the same color as his car. That's the standard I'm shooting for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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