nbesheer Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 Okay so my first week of work I got 60 hours of work in lol. SO I'm going to be buying my new suspension finally. So this is what I have down so far. Struts/Springs http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOKICO-HP-SHOCKS-SPRINGS-280Z-NISSAN-280ZX-79-to-83_W0QQitemZ160129522839QQihZ006QQcategoryZ33590QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Bushings http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PTP%2D14%2D2003%2DBL&N=700+4294925130+4294839050+4294865789+4294907666+4294925044+115&autoview=sku (does that bushing kit include every bushing I need to replace because all mine are bad.) and someone suggested I get new ball end joints (?) and something else, and someone on this forum mentioned that tockios are not warrantied unless you use bump stops and boots is this true. Are there any bearings I need to replace other the the wheel bearings as I got those already. I just have to make sure I have everything when i start because I only get 1 day off a week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 Your probably not going to be able to do all that in one day. You will need a press to get the old control arm bushings out of the rear control arms and even then, they will be a bitch to get out. The best way of doing it is to get the rubber part of the bushing out and then cut all the way through the metal part of the old bushing to the control arm and then use a press to get it out(this makes a huge difference in how easy they come out). You shouldn't have a problem doing the rest of the bushings/suspension though. I have the same stuff in my car and I really like them. You'll be amazed at how much better the car handles with all that new stuff in there! LOL Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbesheer Posted June 25, 2007 Author Share Posted June 25, 2007 Oh I understand that I won't be able to do it all in one day, but work is 2 miles away so I figure I could do one wheel get the hang of it and then if I don't have time either ride my bike to work or slowly drive my car to work lol. I just don't want to take it apart and realize I don't have something and have to put the old stuff back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COmputoman Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 I have the tokico spring shock combo set, and I should be installing them on my 82' 280zx this weekend. I just installed the suspension technique sway bars yesterday. Car drives completly different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 I wouldn't run a poly TC rod bushing. Quite a few people on here have broke the rod running them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbesheer Posted June 26, 2007 Author Share Posted June 26, 2007 Okay I am having a brain fart I cant remember what TC stands for I am stuck on "true control" lol but I didn't see anything in that kit with TC on it. Summit only has poly bushings and when I click on suspension parts at MSA its blank, should I just search for OEM bushings for the "TC". Computoman leave me a heads up with any problems you run into please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 It's the rod that goes from the lower control arm back to the frame. MSA sells rubber ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 TC= tension compression Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete280z Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 I remember a thread specifically about TC rod failure with poly bushings on the s130. I'll see if I can dig it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete280z Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 Here are a couple: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=87758 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=122669 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 I have to believe that the installation of bump steer spacers would almost if not totally alleviate the problem of stressing the TC rods at that point. I believe that's what Afshin came to the conclusion of as well. I have the polyurethane bushings in my car as well as bump steer spacers and having recently torn them apart after a few thousand miles, I noticed no odd or additional wear in the area of where Afshin's broke. Perhaps it's prudent to install the bump steer spacers at the same time as the lowering springs, as I did. Who knows, maybe I'm just lucky. BTW, TC rods on the S130 point toward the front and connect the lower control arms to the front radiator support, unlike the S30 which connect the lower control arms to the chassis at the frame/engine rails. Warren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 I have to believe that the installation of bump steer spacers would almost if not totally alleviate the problem of stressing the TC rods at that point. I believe that's what Afshin came to the conclusion of as well. I have the polyurethane bushings in my car as well as bump steer spacers and having recently torn them apart after a few thousand miles, I noticed no odd or additional wear in the area of where Afshin's broke. Perhaps it's prudent to install the bump steer spacers at the same time as the lowering springs, as I did. Who knows, maybe I'm just lucky. BTW, TC rods on the S130 point toward the front and connect the lower control arms to the front radiator support, unlike the S30 which connect the lower control arms to the chassis at the frame/engine rails. I don't really believe that bumpsteer spacer are that beneficial in this situation. They might help, but what would help a lot more is insanely stiff springs. The problem with the poly is that it doesn't allow the suspension to move freely. When you use a softer spring, it really doesn't matter where your control arm is pointing and what the alignment of the bushing is, because you're still going to use a large portion of the available travel in everyday driving just due to bumps in the road, speed bumps, etc. Really really stiff springs would prevent the suspension from using as much of the travel and therefore would protect the TC rod more than the bumpsteer spacer. Since it is only the bushing in front that takes the braking load, I still think that using a stock rubber bushing in back (especially an old worn bushing) with the poly in the front is probably the best way to use the poly. Better yet is to get rid of the poly altogether and use something else entirely like a G machine setup with rubber on back, or one of the rod end solutions with an adjustable rod. As to the warranty Tokico thing, I once had to have one replaced years ago and they didn't give me any hassle about not running a boot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 As I can only speak from experience using my own vehicle, I can't and won't argue the importance of proper geometry and spring rates. I can, however, add that when you're changing all of the bushings on the front sway bar (end links), check to be sure that the holes (inside the bushing seats) in the lower control arms haven't wallowed out from worn end link bushings as shown below. This is a picture of what I found on my car when I did the urethane installation. It was corrected by using a TIG welder and a small amount of filler material, then shaping the hole round again. This may or may not have any bearing on whether or not the TC rod eventually breaks, but since I was doing the urethane bushing installation, I went ahead and fixed it anyway. As stated above, I haven't had any problems with my TC rods or bushings since doing this. Warren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savage42 Posted June 27, 2007 Share Posted June 27, 2007 Yep, many TC rod failures with poly bushings on 510s, also. The answer is the ball/socket setup on one side and the poly on the other. Nobody has had any issues with that setup, at least that I've heard of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted June 27, 2007 Share Posted June 27, 2007 Yep, many TC rod failures with poly bushings on 510s, also. The answer is the ball/socket setup on one side and the poly on the other. Nobody has had any issues with that setup, at least that I've heard of. Rubber in the rear would be better than poly in my opinion because of the fact that bushing deflection here doesn't change handling characteristics unless you're in reverse. The poly on the back side does nothing but inhibit the movement of the TC rod. I suppose if you're into doing Rockfords the compliance on the back side bushing might become an issue, but I see no reason to run poly in the rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savage42 Posted June 27, 2007 Share Posted June 27, 2007 You are right. Meant to say rubber on the one side. You just want solid stuff on the braking force side. Like you said, those of us who do Rockfords (me, on occassion) need to have a heim setup to control loads going both ways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COmputoman Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 As I can only speak from experience using my own vehicle, I can't and won't argue the importance of proper geometry and spring rates. I can, however, add that when you're changing all of the bushings on the front sway bar (end links), check to be sure that the holes (inside the bushing seats) in the lower control arms haven't wallowed out from worn end link bushings as shown below. This is a picture of what I found on my car when I did the urethane installation. It was corrected by using a TIG welder and a small amount of filler material, then shaping the hole round again. This may or may not have any bearing on whether or not the TC rod eventually breaks, but since I was doing the urethane bushing installation, I went ahead and fixed it anyway. As stated above, I haven't had any problems with my TC rods or bushings since doing this. Warren I just replaced my sway bars with suspension technique bars and this was apprent on my controll arms.... I dont really have access to a welder. Do you think it is absolutly necessary to correct this? Should i take off my controll arms and take them to a machine shop or somthing? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Posted June 29, 2007 Share Posted June 29, 2007 I'd rather err on the side of caution, since this particfular bushing seat does center the bushing, which in turn centers or positions the sway bar end link in the right position. Some may say don't bother, but if you don't want to ruin new bushings, have it corrected. Warren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbesheer Posted July 21, 2007 Author Share Posted July 21, 2007 Okay, I got the struts/springs in the mail today. They look awesome anyways I think it might have come with bump stops little rubber cones ? and 2 shock boots. so now all I need is a poly bushing set and rubber TC bushings. as for bump steers would these work or are there better alternatives ? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-510-280zx-Roll-Center-RCAs-Bump-Steer-Spacers_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ42609QQihZ010QQitemZ200131078629QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW BTW I got my struts.springs from jdmwerks on ebay for 356.00 shipped EDIT: and these ball joints ? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-Lower-Ball-Joints-NISSAN-280ZX-MAXIMA-810-77-83-BALL_W0QQitemZ140140090608QQihZ004QQcategoryZ33580QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting EDIT: and these tie rod ends? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-280ZX-280ZXTurbo-Outer-Steering-Tie-Rod-Ends_W0QQitemZ260141676683QQihZ016QQcategoryZ33593QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I was advised to replace those too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted July 21, 2007 Share Posted July 21, 2007 If the boost are not torn and there is no play, why change them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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