Arizona adjustable strut experience

[blueovalz]

Has this product (adjustable strut casing) been out long for any acurate reviews or comments that reflect some reasonable amount of useage time or mileage? I've got a buddy considering these in a purchase, and asked for my opinion. I think it's a great concept, but in actual practice...who knows. So, has anybody got any feedback to provide. My main concern is possible play between the upper and lower part of the strut where the strut screws into the threaded adapter tube. Arizona Z recommends a minimum of 1" thread engagement, which is only 1/2 of the width of the tube, and this seems a little thin for my comfort zone. If he uses a full 2" to 2 1/2" engagement (my recommendation), he should have about 1 1/2" to 2" of adjustability, which should be fine. I understand the jam nut should keep the threads fully preloaded, but again, who has acutally used these?

[NZeder]

You see a lot of this kind of suspension setup here locally in NZ in S13/S14/S15 and the Skyline range R32/R33/R34 etc most of the drift guys go with this stuff as you can purchase bolt-in kits for these newer models see http://www.tein.co.jp/e/products/mono_flex.html for one of many suppliers. I like the idea - coilovers with height adjustable but still keeping the travel the same and as luck would have it I have just purchased a 240z that requires some suspension work in the future and with out dollar so good against the US currently I too am very interested in this setup. I would agree with the 2" engagement and if I got this kit that is what I would look at doing - if you see his install instructions on the front he is using 1 1/2" but in this case it is also welded to the lower stub-thing-bit.

 

The other question I have in the install page he drills a hole in the rear to again access to the adjustment of the shock at the bottom. If the front is setup the same how do you adjust it?

[mark]

I've just installed a set on my car. It will be a while before it moves. A few comments. This stuff is really nice. I doubt there will be any play between the threaded body and the tube. The lock nut looks like it will take care of it.

 

I put this stuff on the car because I wanted the car very low and still have some suspension travel. I got it.

 

I cut the strut tubes as described on Daves web site and put it together before welding anything. Got the ride height where I wanted it, took it back apart and then welded it.

 

The threaded collars that are welded to what is left of the Z strut stubes have very close tollerances. I had to remove the paint on the Z strut tubes to get them to slip in to place.

 

 

The trial fitting makes it easy enough to have whatever amount of threaded shock you want inside the threaded tube.

 

If I had it to do over, here is what I would have one differently. On the fronts, I would have left only .75 inches of Z strut tube on front. The lowest height adjustment of the threaded shock happens when the shock body bottoms out on what is left of the sectioned Z strut housing. This would have given me .75 inches lower ride height before I had to start adjusting the coil over part.

 

The rears ended up being welded with a 1.25 section of Z strut housing left on the forging. I still have an inch or so to go lower.

 

On the adjustment of the front shocks, I'm working on it. Trying to use on of those flexable screw drivers that will be either tack welded to the adjusting nut or more likely drilled and pinned. I have drilled a hole at about 45 degrees upward on the inboard side of the forging. It allows adjusting while still on the car. I have tried numerous sizes and types out tubes and clamps to get tit to hold. No success. Next is the modified flexable screw driver.

 

Hope that helps.

[NZeder]

I've just installed a set on my car.

Cool

I put this stuff on the car because I wanted the car very low and still have some suspension travel. I got it.

That is what I want too

The threaded collars that are welded to what is left of the Z strut stubes have very close tollerances. I had to remove the paint on the Z strut tubes to get them to slip in to place.

good news on the tollerances - are you using 240z struts or 280z struts?

If I had it to do over, here is what I would have one differently. On the fronts, I would have left only .75 inches of Z strut tube on front. The lowest height adjustment of the threaded shock happens when the shock body bottoms out on what is left of the sectioned Z strut housing. This would have given me .75 inches lower ride height before I had to start adjusting the coil over part.

Good to know.

 

The rears ended up being welded with a 1.25 section of Z strut housing left on the forging. I still have an inch or so to go lower.

So if I understand this correct you have 1.25" of the original strut tube showing? ie from the forging/axle-hold-bit to the bottom of the weld-on threaded collar is 1.25"? So if this is the case and you have 1" of the original tube inside this bit then you only have 2.25" of the original tube left - whereas on the websites install it states leave 5.5" for the 240z and 7.5" for the 280z (our late model 260z down this part of the world)

 

On the adjustment of the front shocks, I'm working on it. Trying to use on of those flexable screw drivers that will be either tack welded to the adjusting nut or more likely drilled and pinned. I have drilled a hole at about 45 degrees upward on the inboard side of the forging. It allows adjusting while still on the car. I have tried numerous sizes and types out tubes and clamps to get tit to hold. No success. Next is the modified flexable screw driver.{/quote]That is what I was thinking would need to be done.

 

Hope that helps.

It does - I think I will look at getting a set for my 240z.

[blueovalz]

So if I understand this correct you have 1.25" of the original strut tube showing? ie from the forging/axle-hold-bit to the bottom of the weld-on threaded collar is 1.25"? So if this is the case and you have 1" of the original tube inside this bit then you only have 2.25" of the original tube left - whereas on the websites install it states leave 5.5" for the 240z and 7.5" for the 280z (our late model 260z down this part of the world)

 

I was wondering the same thing. This is is quite a bit of diviation from the site directions. Any comment on why you cut the OEM tube down this low? Was it because you needed ride height was very low, and if so, what is your expected height (ground to bottom of rocker panel)?

 

If I had it to do over, here is what I would have one differently. On the fronts, I would have left only .75 inches of Z strut tube on front. The lowest height adjustment of the threaded shock happens when the shock body bottoms out on what is left of the sectioned Z strut housing. This would have given me .75 inches lower ride height before I had to start adjusting the coil over part.

 

If you would do this "differently", then help with my understanding. On the site AZ claims 4" of ID threading on the adapter tube. I will then ASSUME that there is an additional 2" of non-threaded tube that is used to overlay over the cut-down OEM tube stub for welding, for a total length of the adapter tube of 6"?. This indicates to me that if the adapter overlays the original tube stub by anything less than 2" (3/4" in your case, or 1 1/2" in the directions), then you will not gain any additional adjustability (you'd have a gap between the top of the cut-down tube stub and the bottom of the ID threading). So, would you also cut down the non-threaded portion of the adapter tube so that the lower end of the ID threaded portion was now closer to the top of the cut-down strut tube end?

[JMortensen]

Here's a thread on them: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117917

[mark]

.

Cool

 

That is what I want too

good news on the tollerances - are you using 240z struts or 280z struts?

Good to know.

 

 

I'm using 240 struts on the car.

 

 

So if I understand this correct you have 1.25" of the original strut tube showing? ie from the forging/axle-hold-bit to the bottom of the weld-on threaded collar is 1.25"? So if this is the case and you have 1" of the original tube inside this bit then you only have 2.25" of the original tube left - whereas on the websites install it states leave 5.5" for the 240z and 7.5" for the 280z (our late model 260z down this part of the world)

 

 

I only have 1.25 inches of tube left from the forging. I tried it at 5 inches and the rear of the car was way up there.

 

 

 

On the adjustment of the front shocks, I'm working on it. Trying to use on of those flexable screw drivers that will be either tack welded to the adjusting nut or more likely drilled and pinned. I have drilled a hole at about 45 degrees upward on the inboard side of the forging. It allows adjusting while still on the car. I have tried numerous sizes and types out tubes and clamps to get tit to hold. No success. Next is the modified flexable screw driver.{/quote]That is what I was thinking would need to be done.

 

It does - I think I will look at getting a set for my 240z.

[mark]

I was wondering the same thing. This is is quite a bit of diviation from the site directions. Any comment on why you cut the OEM tube down this low? Was it because you needed ride height was very low, and if so, what is your expected height (ground to bottom of rocker panel)?

 

 

 

If you would do this "differently", then help with my understanding. On the site AZ claims 4" of ID threading on the adapter tube. I will then ASSUME that there is an additional 2" of non-threaded tube that is used to overlay over the cut-down OEM tube stub for welding, for a total length of the adapter tube of 6"?. This indicates to me that if the adapter overlays the original tube stub by anything less than 2" (3/4" in your case, or 1 1/2" in the directions), then you will not gain any additional adjustability (you'd have a gap between the top of the cut-down tube stub and the bottom of the ID threading). So, would you also cut down the non-threaded portion of the adapter tube so that the lower end of the ID threaded portion was now closer to the top of the cut-down strut tube end?

 

 

The car has 17 inch wheels, I needed the ability to get the car low. The tube is 6 inches, 4 inches threaded. The non threaded part is a larger ID than the threaded part. The threads on the shock will fit into the nonthreaded part. The shock then bottoms out on the cut protion of the Z strut tube.

 

The rockers are at about 5 inches from the ground. THis is pretty close to where I want the car to sit.

 

I can't imagine a car with the rears done like the web site says. If I had left 5 inches of tube, the new threaded 6 inch tube would slip over 2 inches of that, that still is 3 inches taller that I have the car. I can still go another inch or so lower but it would stil be too high.

 

The part on the web site about assembling the suspension before welding is very good advice.

[tube80z]

PM viperredls1, he's been running these for over a year on his track/autox/street car. He had some initial problems with the tubes loosening but that's all solved now. His car is in the install pictures on the AZcar website.

 

Cary

[mark]

Gary, how was the loosening problems olved?

[tube80z]

I think an additional set of jam nuts but Dave will know for sure. Once this was fixed he's seemed pretty happy with them. That's about all I know.

 

Cary

[mark]

I think an additional set of jam nuts but Dave will know for sure. Once this was fixed he's seemed pretty happy with them. That's about all I know.

 

Cary

 

THanks Cary, that is the one thing I wondered about when putting them together.

[blueovalz]

Interesting being this was the focus of the original query. I couldn't see a threaded junction in the middle of the strut as not needing some kind of special attention when considering high lateral forces.

[ARZ_]

I have a bit of experience with these, I have had them on my car since 2005. If I am not mistaken, I think mine were the first set to be installed. These went on my 7MGTE powered 240Z. I have done numerous autocrosses, and probably put more than 3000 miles on these and most of them VERY hard. My car has well over 400rwhp in its current state, I have had very close to 500rwhp for awhile as well.

 

On the adjustment of the front shocks, I'm working on it. Trying to use on of those flexable screw drivers that will be either tack welded to the adjusting nut or more likely drilled and pinned. I have drilled a hole at about 45 degrees upward on the inboard side of the forging. It allows adjusting while still on the car. I have tried numerous sizes and types out tubes and clamps to get tit to hold. No success. Next is the modified flexible screw driver.

 

Hope that helps.

Please don't weld anything to the knobs. It will make the shocks not rebuildable. If your not driving the car yet you might want to wait until the car is running before you bother with modifying the tube. I took a piece of fuel line and a Nissan EFI fuel line clamp and that worked great, anything stronger than that and you might damage the knob or mechanism.

 

I have done several of the strut tube sections for AZC customers too.

 

On the Jamb nut I only have 1 at the top of the strut tube and 2 at the bottom of the spring. I cant imagine needing to cut down the front inner tube any more than what is advised.

 

This indicates to me that if the adapter overlays the original tube stub by anything less than 2" (3/4" in your case, or 1 1/2" in the directions), then you will not gain any additional adjustability (you'd have a gap between the top of the cut-down tube stub and the bottom of the ID threading). So, would you also cut down the non-threaded portion of the adapter tube so that the lower end of the ID threaded portion was now closer to the top of the cut-down strut tube end?

The major diameter of the strut body is just barely smaller than the outside diameter of the stock 240 strut tube, that way when you don't bottom the threads out inside the AZC supplied threaded tube, you can thread beyond the threads because there is nothing to hit inside the AZC supplied tubes.

 

Also the AZC struts have an internal damper for bottoming out. I used this to lower the car as much as possible and keep the tires from touching any part of the car. There is internal valving that causes the strut body to hydro lock and build pressure very rapidly. It does a very good job of resisting bottoming. There really is no real estate to install a conventional bump stop.

 

Here is a decent shot of my car completely loaded in the rear and the tires dont rub anywhere. Yes I had to roll the front and rear fenders, but those are 17x8 with 245-45-17's in front and 17x9 with 275-40-17's in the rear. notice the rear tire.

 

 

The magic number is how far that tube gets welded from the cast portion of the rear bearing housing. Its different for different diameter wheels. I believe 7.5 (from the top of the casting) to be the magic number for 17's. Im pretty sure JIM73240Z has it as he was over at my house to make sure just a couple of weeks ago. Heres a photo of them installed. Sorry I dont have any better ones at the moment.

rear suspension

[mark]

Good info here. Thanks for posting your experience. I've done the tube and clamp deal on the rears. My thought is to get something to work on the fronts. I have a few ideas that dont involve melted steel.

 

I would like to ask again to be sure that you left 7.5 inches of tube on the rear strut and then welded the threaded collar to that. It should have left about 5 inches of the original Z strut tube between the threaded collar and the weld on threaded tube. Am I correct so far?

 

I set mine up like that and it looked like one of those 70's hot wheel cars with the rear stuck up in the air. Of course our cars are different and I'm shooting for a very low ride height with 17's. I have a wide body kit on the car and I wanted the top of the tires covered by the flaired fenders. One day I'll post a pic.

[ARZ_]

I would like to ask again to be sure that you left 7.5 inches of tube on the rear strut and then welded the threaded collar to that. It should have left about 5 inches of the original Z strut tube between the threaded collar and the weld on threaded tube. Am I correct so far?

 

NO!!!

 

Its 7.5 from the top of the new AZC supplied (internally threaded) tube, to the TOP of the cast portion of the rear strut. Dont cut anything until I or JIM73240Z can confirm. Notice there is at least 2 inches of unthreaded tube I would overlap that at least 1.5-2.0 inches. Remember all these numbers are for 17 inch wheels. 15's and 16's will be different (for anybody else listening).

 

I think that AZC tube is 6 inches long and only threaded for 3 inches inside, so if you slide it over the tube 1.5 inches you will be able to plunge your strut 1.5 (or so) past (lower) the end of the threads. Does this make sense? You would have 2.5 inches of travel to nail down your bump height, and a ton more to nail down your ride height.

 

Also remember that my main goal was to make sure my strut lock nut didn't hit the inside of the wheel, it is shockingly close. With a wide body kit you might have more room to move the wheel outboard, or you could fit wider wheels.

 

What were your issues on the front? See the photo of my car? Im on the gas in that corner, and my front isnt low enough for you?

 

I really do beat the hell out of my car, if anyone was going to break this stuff it would have been me.

 

In this image that measurement looks incredibly tall, considering that the AZC supplied piece is 6 inches long. That car would end up looking like a hot wheels car. From the top of this tube to the top of that cast part (should be) 7.5-7.25 (remember I need to confirm this still).

 

[mark]

That makes more sense. If you are measuring from the top of the new threaded tube to the casting to get 7.5 inches, that puts 1.5 inches in the tube and then leaves the 6 inches of threaded tube. We are saying the same thing. I cut my strut tube at 1.25 inches above the forged part on the rear strut.

 

Only about .25 inches difference. Mine are installed and ride height is where I wanted it. I was confused about the amount of strut tube you said you had left.

 

I can't wait to get it on the track. Any input on spring rates and shock settings?

 

Thanks

[ARZ_]

That makes more sense. If you are measuring from the top of the new threaded tube to the casting to get 7.5 inches, that puts 1.5 inches in the tube and then leaves the 6 inches of threaded tube. We are saying the same thing. I cut my strut tube at 1.25 inches above the forged part on the rear strut.

 

Only about .25 inches difference. Mine are installed and ride height is where I wanted it. I was confused about the amount of strut tube you said you had left.

The reason I said that is because I had prototype (threaded collars) parts that were only 4~5 inches tall and with the measurement I gave you it would always be the same.

 

I can't wait to get it on the track. Any input on spring rates and shock settings?

Not for racing, Im sorry, I only Autocross and street (hoodlum) race with this car. Im sorry I dont even remember what rate springs I have in there. My other car is reserved for the track but its been a number of years since I had it on the track and I really need to upgrade quite a few things before I take it out again.

[JIM73240Z]

i just welded mine up last weekend. i have the same set up as 2fiddy. i have them welded so that the top of the collar is 7.25" from the casting. that way i have clearance between the rim for sure. (17" rims). 2 fiddys collars are an older generation of collars that he has installed on his car. we measured from casting to top of collar to be 7.5" and he have no room. so i lowered it a little for good measure. if you have 16" rims you will have to do the math or if your rims have a slightly different inside diameter that mine or 2fiddy's. i made sure i cut my struts way long untill i could confirm with 2fiddy's car. regardless, i think the 7.25 - 7.5" mark from casting to top of collar is the magic number.

 

measure 2-3 times then cut.

 

jimbo

[ARZ_]

i just welded mine up last weekend. i have the same set up as 2fiddy. i have them welded so that the top of the collar is 7.25" from the casting. that way i have clearance between the rim for sure. (17" rims). 2 fiddys collars are an older generation of collars that he has installed on his car. we measured from casting to top of collar to be 7.5" and he have no room. so i lowered it a little for good measure. if you have 16" rims you will have to do the math or if your rims have a slightly different inside diameter that mine or 2fiddy's. i made sure i cut my struts way long untill i could confirm with 2fiddy's car. regardless, i think the 7.25 - 7.5" mark from casting to top of collar is the magic number.

 

measure 2-3 times then cut.

 

jimbo

Thanks for the confirmation, I thought I was a little off. There you have it 7.25 sounds like the magic number. But remember we have a slightly different Camber plate design that would let the strut body be engaged about .75 inches deeper than the average Joe. I still need to climb under mine and let you guys know how deep the strut is inside the threaded tube. Sorry to add confusion to everyone out there but I will clear it up later. It really is very simple.