Dragonfly Posted July 23, 2007 Share Posted July 23, 2007 It would be easier to use an adapter, but I can't find them less than 1" thick. Contact Jerry at http://www.zraceproducts.com I am sure he can take care of your adapter problem if you would prefer to use the adapter instead of going with longer wheel studs. Dragonfly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted July 23, 2007 Author Share Posted July 23, 2007 I found some spacers with new studs attached that come in 15mm thickness, so I ordered up a set from ProjectNissan.com http://www.mackinindustries.com/wm/kics/widethreadspacer.html Stay tuned... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 23, 2007 Share Posted July 23, 2007 15mm total thickness and it's a bolt on??? How do they get enough nut on there to hold the spacer on? I think I'd rather have a slip on spacer with some strong ARP or similar studs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted July 23, 2007 Author Share Posted July 23, 2007 15mm total thickness and it's a bolt on??? How do they get enough nut on there to hold the spacer on? I think I'd rather have a slip on spacer with some strong ARP or similar studs. I don't know exactly how they do it, but it looks like the nuts are conical. Of course, even though they exist they are nowhere to be found in stock. It will take till at least the end of August...or later to get them. It would be pretty straightforward to use a spacer, but then I need to figure out how to source and install the longer studs. There's enough room to remove the stock length one's, but there isn't enough room to fit the longer one's. I've been looking through old posts about drilling the back plate on drum setups, but mine is a 280ZX disc conversion and I don't know if it will work the same. I'll have to look again when I get home, but I recall some substantial metal in the way. The caliper brackets are 4 lug, so the stub axles must have been removed to install them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 23, 2007 Share Posted July 23, 2007 I don't know exactly how they do it, but it looks like the nuts are conical. Of course, even though they exist they are nowhere to be found in stock. It will take till at least the end of August...or later to get them. It would be pretty straightforward to use a spacer, but then I need to figure out how to source and install the longer studs. There's enough room to remove the stock length one's, but there isn't enough room to fit the longer one's. I've been looking through old posts about drilling the back plate on drum setups, but mine is a 280ZX disc conversion and I don't know if it will work the same. I'll have to look again when I get home, but I recall some substantial metal in the way. The caliper brackets are 4 lug, so the stub axles must have been removed to install them. I had a caliper bracket like that on my Z, so I put my longer studs in when I swapped rear wheel bearings. The bracket doesn't need to attach to all 4 bolt holes like that though. If you look at Ross's brackets or AZC's brackets, they only attach to 2 or 3 holes. You can grind the bracket down for clearance (just do it opposite where the caliper is) or you can pull the stubs. The 12mm Camaro/RX7 studs fit the hubs without having to redrill or anything, so that part is as easy as it gets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragonfly Posted July 24, 2007 Share Posted July 24, 2007 I had a caliper bracket like that on my Z, so I put my longer studs in when I swapped rear wheel bearings. The bracket doesn't need to attach to all 4 bolt holes like that though. If you look at Ross's brackets or AZC's brackets, they only attach to 2 or 3 holes. You can grind the bracket down for clearance (just do it opposite where the caliper is) or you can pull the stubs. The 12mm Camaro/RX7 studs fit the hubs without having to redrill or anything, so that part is as easy as it gets. Using the studs Jon is talking about (I used them on my car) you can since you have a disk brake set up (it is easier to pull the brake rotor) rotate the stub axle and there is a spot at about the 5 'O'clock position were the stud will just barely fit into the hole without having to pull the shaft. I then used a brass rod to tap each stud into place, then put the wheel on and tourque each lug nut take the car up and down the block jack it back up and re-torque each lugnut to insure all the studs are pulled up tight. One other thing to mention about the longer studs... you have to use open lug nuts with them, if your lugs have chrome caps or ends on them you will either mess up your lug nuts or not get them tightened properly (most likely). My studs stick out about 1/4" past the end of my long lug nuts (I chucked all my lug nuts up on a laithe and drilled out the ends so the studs go through). Here is a pic of mine with just the longer studs, I don't have any pics of the modified lug nuts. Dragonfly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted July 24, 2007 Author Share Posted July 24, 2007 Thanks for the pic Dragonfly. My brake caliper bracket goes all the way around the hub, but as Jon mentioned I can grind the bracket enough to allow access for installing the longer studs. I cancelled the order for the 15 mm spacer with the studs attached and placed a new order for longer studs, and I already have open ended lug nuts. Once the new studs arrive I can remove old one's, install the new one's, and play around with spacer thicknesses. I'll keep the spring off and use washers to determine the optimal thickness of spacer that will allow clearance throughout the wheels travel range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TONY C Posted July 24, 2007 Share Posted July 24, 2007 hey dragonfly, you got a part # and a source for the studds? also will they fit the front also? peace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 24, 2007 Share Posted July 24, 2007 Long: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ARP%2D100%2D7713&N=700+115&autoview=sku Short: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ARP%2D100%2D7708&N=700+115&autoview=sku These have 12mm x 1.5 threads, so you'll need new lug nuts. They fit the front hubs too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted July 24, 2007 Author Share Posted July 24, 2007 hey dragonfly, you got a part # and a source for the studds? also will they fit the front also? peaceHere's what I wound up purchasing.http://www.ichibausa.com/ni12exstsh50.html According to what I've been able to find there are two different wheel studs used on all Nissan's and they differ in the knurl. One's that fit: *300ZX 1990-1996 - front axle*, *240SX 1995-1998 - front axle* *Sentra 1991-1999* *Sentra 2000-2004* *Altima 2002-2004* *350Z* *Nissans with solid rear axle* One's that fit all others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted July 24, 2007 Share Posted July 24, 2007 Regarding wheel width and tire fitment... Almost all race sanctioning bodies use rim width limitations as one way to equalize performance between cars. That's why you often see racers running wide tires on narrow rims (225s on 7" rims in SCCA IT, 285s on 8" rims in SCCA Solo2 BS). Its not the best thing to do, but it gives a little better performance then a proper sized rim and tire combination, given the rim width limits. Bart, since you're competing in an unrestricted class, run as wide a rim and tire combination as you can given your self imposed stock wheel well limit. IMHO, some of the gyrations you will have to go through to get the 275 to fit in the rear will compromise autocross performance. But, for the next year or so, those gyrations won't have a negative affect on your course times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted July 24, 2007 Share Posted July 24, 2007 Another point to make regarding recommended rim widths for tires... The recommended rim widths published by tire manufacturers are based on a DOT formula that emphazies safety. If you talk with the race tire guys (Jeff Speer at Hoosier, Rudy at Kumho) they have very specific recommendations for best performance. Rim width should be equal to or 1/2" wider then actual, measured tread width. Ignore the published numbers (275, 245, etc.) and look at the actual tread width. For example: Hoosier 245/30-18 A6S06 has an actual tread width of 9". For best performace out of that tire it should be mounted on a 9 or 9 1/2" wide wheel. Sumitomo 245/40-17 HTR-Z has an actual tread width of 8 1/4". For best performance out of that tire it should be mounted on a 8 or 8 1/2" wide wheel. That's not to say either tire will suck on a narrower or wider wheel. They will still perform but a little (or a lot) of the tires capabilites will be unavailable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted July 26, 2007 Author Share Posted July 26, 2007 I was able to cut away part of my brake caliper bracket and remove the stock studs. I installed the new 50mm studs and used flat washers to set the wheel where I wanted it. I also rolled my fenders the old fashioned way using a bat instead of an Eastwood fender roller and I'm very happy with the results. So here are the pic's: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragonfly Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 Thats close... but then close looks good and all the better since it fits. Did you also make sure that the tire doesn't rub in the 10 'O'clock and 2 'O'clock positions? I found with my tires (255/50/16 @ 26" dia) clear my flares but when jacked up to almost the point of coil bind rub rub in the 10 'O'clock and 2 'O'clock positions. Under most circumstances that is not a problem but as I recall you are stepping into the world of autox... unless you run a smaller diameter tire you may be finding a new rub point. I just did the math and your tires (275/35/18) are 25.58" dia. so you may make it after all. Either way check and check again because we know you are going to be pushing it hard in the corners. Dragonfly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted July 26, 2007 Author Share Posted July 26, 2007 I still need to fine tune and determine if there are rub spots in the wheel travel range. The spring is still off, but I maxed out my jack when I took the pictures last night. So I'm going to raise the wheel until it makes contact and see if that would be within the normal range of my wheel travel. I also need to determine my camber angle and toe in as this will also impact the wheel placement within the fender wells. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240swapped Posted August 4, 2007 Share Posted August 4, 2007 any way we could get pic of the car from the side as it sits with the wheels bearing the weight of the car? just kinda wanna know how the the wheel gap looks on these, i have a similar size set of wheels on my s13 and if they look good i'm gonna 5lug the s30 and slap 'em on. please and thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted August 4, 2007 Author Share Posted August 4, 2007 any way we could get pic of the car from the side as it sits with the wheels bearing the weight of the car? just kinda wanna know how the the wheel gap looks on these, i have a similar size set of wheels on my s13 and if they look good i'm gonna 5lug the s30 and slap 'em on. please and thanks!I'll have finished pic's soon...but I'm waiting for the 5" sleeves on the rear before I can put the weight of the car on the wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Mine Motors Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 so what about the front? what size tire did you put there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted August 7, 2007 Author Share Posted August 7, 2007 so what about the front? what size tire did you put there?The front's are installed using the Modern Motorsport adapters which are a little over an inch wide. The tires are 245/40R18. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aziza z Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 got side pics yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.