garvice Posted November 1, 2008 Share Posted November 1, 2008 Austin, On a serious note, YOU HAVE TO MARRY THIS GIRL. She is definitely a keeper. Holding your exhaust whilst standing on a work bench, wow. My wife was helping me braid my injector wiring the other night, definitely couldn't do it without her help. Any women that loves you enough to help you out with things that you enjoy is definitely worth holding on to. Oh yeah, car looks awesome too, but we all new it would. Brad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tombarace14 Posted November 2, 2008 Share Posted November 2, 2008 What were you afraid would cause the car to go into Limp-in? Something else I wanted to ask you was, did you delete all of the EVAP controls? I have a feeling that your going to need a resonator before the muffler. From what ive been reading is alot of the guys running the test pipes. Are using the resonated ones instead of using the stright pipe. This was only to control the rasp and noise. Are you still running the NVIS (Immob.) system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted November 2, 2008 Share Posted November 2, 2008 Rock on! Can't wait to see videos and to hear how it drives/handles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted November 2, 2008 Share Posted November 2, 2008 Nice! Congrats man, Very well deserved. Hopefully that great feeling will come soon for me as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted November 2, 2008 Author Share Posted November 2, 2008 A short video: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted November 2, 2008 Share Posted November 2, 2008 Awsome!! Think it will make it to DNI this year? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted November 2, 2008 Author Share Posted November 2, 2008 Certainly hope so there is still ALOT of work to go before the car is roadworthy but I plan on having her completely done around xmas...I plan on bringing it down in the spring. It wont be much of a drag car but it will be fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wigenOut-S30 Posted November 2, 2008 Share Posted November 2, 2008 Heck yeah dude! Congrats Austin. Cant wait to see some driving vids of her.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Creizai Posted November 2, 2008 Share Posted November 2, 2008 I think for a street car this a just about a perfect match for balance. When I finally get into a Z I'll be sure to think about this. I don't however like them so much in the 240sx too much but hey least its not a LS1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tombarace14 Posted November 2, 2008 Share Posted November 2, 2008 SWEET!! Glad to see to running!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted November 3, 2008 Share Posted November 3, 2008 Thanks for sharing! I think it sounds great, it's not that loud IMO. I'm sure you still have alot of work cut out like tucking away wires and all the time consuming little things but, I'm sure that stuff will be a breeze knowing that you have your engine running already. Keep up the good work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted November 9, 2008 Author Share Posted November 9, 2008 Finished up my front cross member this weekend as well as all my brake lines. I just updated my cross member page on the website: http://www.vq240z.com-a.googlepages.com/frontsubframe While I was under the car I realized the was plenty of room for an engine mount cross member and I'm really not sure why I didn't want to add one before. I plan to connect the engine mounts and then make a skid plate to bolt the front and rear cross members together to protect the engine/oil pan. There isnt much left except wrapping up electrical and plumbing the cooling system. Definitely should have some road test videos by Christmas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 Austin, Great work as usual. I wasn't able to tell if your were using your factory oil cooler on the passenger side of the engine. The outlet points straight down at the ground on mine and I was just wondering what you did about yours. Also, If you look closely you really dont need that upper pulley. I thought it was a water pump at first but it's just an idler pully for the Power steering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
md614 Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 Austin, Great work. Its good to see your Z getting close to completion. The exhaust sounds killer in the video. I hope to have my new engine built and up and running by january. I will have to drive up then and meet up with ya. You got made skills man. Later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted November 10, 2008 Author Share Posted November 10, 2008 Myron - Thanks, yea I noticed it wasn't connected to anything, but what belt are you using? I didn't think you could tighten the belt without it. I am using the factory oil cooler. The coolant outlet points kinda forwards and down on mine, I had to notch a little out of the cross member to make sure I could get a tube on it comfortably. Other then that i just screwed the generic adapter onto the oil cooler and ran 90 degrees brass fitting from there to the remote mount. Im gonna replace those rubber lines with braided nylon line when everything else is done. Also another Idea I had since the oil outlet is below the frame rail is to go straight into the wheel well and mount the remote filter to the firewall inside the drives fender, then mount and after market oil cooler and filter in front of it behind the tire with a rock guard. Thought this would be clean and work well... Mark -- Thanks for the compliments, We need to do a photoshoot when both cars are ready to go lol, except that might make mine look bad. Ill be talking with you about that rear end soon as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPD47 Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 Austin, fantastic to hear it running. I'm really quite jealous! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted November 14, 2008 Share Posted November 14, 2008 Austin, Here's how I'm runing my alternator belt. I was lucky enough to find a belt small enough at my local auto parts store. It's a tight fit. I had to remove the tensioner pulley first, place the belt on, then slide the pulley on last. The belt is a Goodyear Gatorback, and there are 2 part #s on it. 40660325 and 6PK0825. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted December 1, 2008 Author Share Posted December 1, 2008 I had some time to work on the car over thanksgiving break and finished most of the interior wiring . The EMS system is completely finished, the dash is wired, as well as the column section. Still have the engine section and speedometer to wire up but I'm getting there. I bought a tach adapter for the tachometer and Ill be using a Proximity sensor on the drive shaft differential flange bolts for the speedometer signal. Huge thanks to Dayz for the Vintage connection link. I ordered enough connectors from that guy to rewire two cars! I replaced all the connectors with locking ones of similar style. Also a great place for wiring products is Waytek. They have awesome prices and alot of cool things, you do have to buy in bulk though. I used them for my fuse panel and relay mounts as well as relays and a nice cheap u-barrel crimp tool. When I get the time Im hoping to do a complete writeup on how to rewire a datsun with some of the trick Ive learned and the mistakes Ive made. This is the entire EMS system. The ECU controls three of the relays ("relay 1", throttle, and fuel pump) and one is for the key switch power section of the fuse panel. I built a fuse panel to provide the necessary constant power and key switch power. I got these panels from Waytek, each four pack snaps together to make a clean solid system just like the relay mounts. All connections in the system are crimped and soldered for reliability. No bullet or quick connects either all OEM style lock together connectors. Here you can see the NATS, BDW, data port, and security lamp going across the cockpit by the heater core. The fuel pump power and "ign on" signal also connects to the main chassis harness here too. The security lamp will be mounted in the dash trim panel. And here is a picture of the dash, It is connected to the main harness with four connectors to make removal a snap and keep everything clean. There is basically one connector for the speakers, one for all the gauges, one for power and grounds, and one for the hazards and push button starter. Thatss all for now I will be getting back to the car in a couple weeks for a nice long xmas break. I'm Looking forward to getting the car on the road! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest boozels Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 Very Nice Quality Fab work Gives me inspiration to start my own project with my new vq motor and a s30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dayz Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 I am happy I have helped, I rewired my car, and what a feeling working with OEM connectors and a real professional crimper. Great looking electrical work. Dayz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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