EMWHYR0HEN Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 Looking good Austin. If you dont already have a fan control you can wire in another relay to let the ECU control a dual and single speed fan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted December 1, 2008 Author Share Posted December 1, 2008 Dayz - Yea after doing this before by soldering the old connectors on I was wondering what the heck I was thinking! Using new connectors and crimping is the only way to do it and its much easier. Thanks for the tip Myron, I really didnt think about doing that, there is alot of cool stuff you can do with the ecu/bcm. Ive been trying to keep the ems and chassis stuff separate though as much as I can, the only thing my ECU controls is the fuel pump for obvious reasons. Right now Im using a SPAL 185 degree grounding switch in the radiator to control the electric fan. I found this thing today which I thought was really sweet... the PLX OBDII reader, has a sweet gauge interface that can display all the readouts from the ECU. I think one will be making its way into my car in the near future. http://www.plxdevices.com/products/dm200obd/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 yeah looks real nice.. so what does the front of your dash look like. I guess you've used 350Z gauges. I'm pretty interrested in how your speedo will work out, I mean there's a ratio on your driveshaft to your wheelspeed because of the diff, so does that mean there'll be fewer teeth on your shaft for the pickup to read, so that it'll read the right wheel rotation? I'm really looking forward to seeing how you'll do this. I just gotta find me a 350z engine/tranny that won't cost 10 times what I paid for the whole car. Phar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted December 9, 2008 Author Share Posted December 9, 2008 Im using all Autometer gauges. The speedo is electronics and basically calibrates itself. Ill post some pictures when Im make the prox sensor mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted December 16, 2008 Author Share Posted December 16, 2008 EXAMS ARE OVER!!!!!!! I needed to vent so I decided to do it there. What a semester its been, and I get to do it all over again in a few short weeks. Going home today to hopefully finish up the VQ swap over break. Ill be posting alot of updates hopefully Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted December 16, 2008 Share Posted December 16, 2008 Good for you dude. Can't wait to see it driving. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted December 16, 2008 Share Posted December 16, 2008 Austin, Very nice work indeed. Maybe I missed it in your thread, but what are you using for the throttle by wire as pedal. the stock 350Z pedal? I've used these connectors with pigtails from Allelectronics: 2 pin: 3 pin: 4 pin: 6 pin: 9 pin: Not weather tight, but good quality. Short money, and they are already assembled. Just cut in the middle and splice. allelectronics.com Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted December 17, 2008 Author Share Posted December 17, 2008 Hey, Im using the factory DBW pedal. Those look like they would do the trick. However I was trying to get away from splicing. I really don't like to do that and buying the proper terminals and crimper was well worth the money in my book. Not to mention its 10x easier then soldering in weird angles inside the car. Thats a sweet site though, they have tons of stuff. The vintage connectors run from 2-4 bucks so they are to bad price wise and I believe connectors from Waytek are even cheaper, they just aren't oem style. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted December 26, 2008 Author Share Posted December 26, 2008 Ive been working just about not stop on the car for the past week and its pretty much ready for the road. Im taking my time and finishing up little details, I should have it on the road next week. Really the only things I have left are to add some mounting tabs to the intake and install my front bumper/hood. The hood will be latched with locking aerocatch hood pins. I plan on driving it for a while to shake everything down then The engine will be removed for painting of the engine compartment and lots of powercoating on the engine. I also will be working on installing all the interior vinyal and making some doors panels as well. I didn't take a lot of pictures while I was working but here are a few pictures of the progress. I dont think I had posted this before, but I installed this a long time ago. I'm running the 350z clutch master. I had to drop the pedal box and modify it for everything to work but it turned out nice. The clutch feels exactly like a 350z, which I think has a nice feel...not to light but not to stiff. I cut the top of the transmission tunnel out and patched it back to fit the new shifter location, leaving a shifter mount access panel. After that I layed down a second layer of fat mat in the passenger compartment w/ Lcomp on the floors. I really like the shifter location, it is perfect for me..right next to the steering wheel. fat mat w/ L-comp on the floors: The access panel not only allows me to remove the shifter easily but gives me a easy way to fill the transmission with oil too as I can slid a hose down through the top: All the wiring is complete, once everything works for a while Ill loom it up a little nicer. I also need to add some more sound deadening to the firewall. Here you can see the connectors going to the dash: Engine management wiring completed, here again once everything works for a while it will be cleaned up some more as well: Suspension back in a ready to go. I had the differential checked out while I had everything down since I was having some noise from it earlier. Turned out one of the bearings was cocked a little but no damage had been done..came form installing the pinion flange to tight. I also installed a Turck induction proximity sensor on the diff mount so that it picks up the back of the drive shaft mounting bolts, this will serve as my speedo sensor for my Autometer electrical speedo..four equal pulses per revolution with the square patterned 300zxt flange. I forgot to take a picture of it before I installed it, super easy to setup though. Radiator installed with the Jeg's overflow tank: Engine complete and ready to go...just need to add some tabs on the intake. These were waiting for me under the tree, cant wait to install em, kinda hard to roll windows down when your strapped in with racing harnesses: Hope Yall enjoy...Hopefully Ill have some video next week. Im taking a break for the weekend to hang out at school then Ill be back on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted December 26, 2008 Share Posted December 26, 2008 Looking good man. Power windows RULE! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-Gad Posted December 27, 2008 Share Posted December 27, 2008 Awesome ... Love the attention to detail Austin!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garvice Posted December 27, 2008 Share Posted December 27, 2008 You know we expect a write up on the SPAL instal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted December 27, 2008 Share Posted December 27, 2008 Beautiful job Austin!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jknc90 Posted December 28, 2008 Share Posted December 28, 2008 Looks great Austin. I hope to see in person soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slownrusty Posted December 28, 2008 Share Posted December 28, 2008 Awesome work Austin and once again very inspiring! Yasin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kimmi Posted December 29, 2008 Share Posted December 29, 2008 This is looking really great, and thanks for the awesome write up.. I use it for reference often lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted December 30, 2008 Author Share Posted December 30, 2008 Thanks for the compliments guys! The car is back on the ground, I took her for a spin around the block tonight...super squirrelly with my eyeball alignment so I couldn't get on it. The engine starts and runs great, however the thermostat isnt opening though so it may be stuck I gotta figure that one out. I also have a few issues with the brakes/suspension I need to sort out before I can really take her out and get a feel for the engine. She is hitting the alignment rack tomorrow night Ill post some new pictures tomorrow night as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNkEyT88 Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 Ohh, and.. Videos are the new pictures.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 Nice work dude. Before you crack open your thermostat, Have you fully bled the cooling system for air? It's a PITA to do for mostly all 350Z owners and it took me a couple hours to burp it. If you havnt taken the air bleeder tee fitting from the heater hose on a 350Z it might be a good idea and will really help bleeding air out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted December 30, 2008 Author Share Posted December 30, 2008 Thanks for the tip Myron, after you mentioned that I spent a little while bleeding the system and burping it...still no go. Then after talking with a service rep at the local dealership I replced the thermostat, still no go.... I called Mark...he immediately told me there was a huge air pocket like you thought. He also said that 350z's were terrible for this and they have a special tool to fill them with coolant as it was nearly impossible to do it by hand...mentioned it has something to do with the tube in the back of the motor that connects the two banks allowing it to circulate without letting air out of the engine... idk Anyhow when I get it aligned tonight Im going to use that tool to pull a vaccuum on the entire system and fill it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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