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Head cooling on cylinder #5 - solutions?


TimZ

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The attached file should shed some light on what is up regarding 'coolant flow testing' currently underway... ;)post-380-12710625325973_thumb.jpg

Unfortunately, while testing the engine, and tuning it, the engine started surging under power. I waved the opertator off to shuit the engine down, and he did, the bad part is that just ats the engine was coming back down to idle, the cam let go. Not a good sound to hear, and I verified that the cam sprocket bolt came lose.

I have no one to blame but myself on this. The screw up took out no less then five valves when it happened. The lower rotating assembly is fine, but I have to fix the head now. That is in the works, and provided the valves can be sourced quick enough, I expect to be up and running here in a few days.

 

So some advice on building your engines, when you start on a part of the engine finish it completly, and as Tony mentioned that we did in the military, the bolt marking goop is a good idea to ensure you have secured every required bolt.

 

Again, I have no one to blame but myself on the matter. I built the engine so it was my screw up. I had to start and stop start and stop due to problems with my daily drivers, and just to much going on at the time. I could not dedicate the time I needed to ensure I had all of my ducks in a row. Fortunetly, the lower rotating assembly is good, and I am quite sure it will not pose any problems. I did the bottom end at one time, no start and stop in between, and I did the cylinder head the same way. When it came time to assemble the engine, I had very little time to do so, and I did it in parts, seems I had a little difficulty keeping track of the work completed. There were three errors I found, the cam being the damaging one, but the turbo outlet was not tightened, Tony found that, I readjusted the rockers, and one had excessive lash, and finally to round it all of the cam bolt came lose.

 

Expensive lessons for anyone, so we will see if I can get it back together by the 24Th.

 

Some of the data I did get before I destroyed my valves, was looking very promicing for the heat control of the engine. The testing is not complete, but I think the overall improvements are very impressive.

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The attached file should shed some light on what is up regarding 'coolant flow testing' currently underway... ;)post-380-12710625325973_thumb.jpg

 

Lovely to see old school like this on the dyno!

 

Is that an EWP up front? :o Surely there has been enough evidence in this thread (and others) to suggest that there are better options than that!?. (the letters L and D and numbers 2 and 8 keep coming to mind) ;)

 

Tony, didn't you say that it was Electromotive that were running a diesel WP in their cars? How much power were they making? 1000 on the dyno. Why switch it over if the mechanical one is adequate?

 

Is there a video companion to this picture? I'd love to hear this monster on full song! B)

Edited by ozconnection
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Where on earth would anybody get the idea there was an electric water pump on that engine?

 

To put all at ease, see attachment:

 

That's a better view Tony thanks.

 

Any more pics of that monster?

 

(and by the look of it, it was running when the photo was taken....nice)

Edited by ozconnection
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Yes, and I appreciate that someone noticed my pains at time exposure with supplemental fill flash to get a semi-frozen fanblade on the alternator.

It's an L-Engine on a Dyno, what's there to show?

 

Muahahahaha! I have revealed FAR too much already. :D

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How much advantage is there in switching the bypass on and off?

We could use a vac operated heater switch controlled by MS or temp switch.

That would allow us to shut the external bypass.

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Those AMOT thermostatic valves look very similar to the thermostat on an E46 M3...

 

When its cold, and the thermostat blocks the opening to the radiator, it opens up a very large passage right back into the inlet of the waterpump, when its hot it closes the passage back into the waterpump, and opens up the passage to the radiator with the same little moving cylinder. I gather thats what AMOT means by "fully automatic 3-way fluid temperature controller." Pretty cool

 

engine_e46m3_msporttherm_lg%20(2).jpg

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I thought I replied to this, but flexicoker, that is exactly the 'truck thermostat' the guys were using in the super high horsepower turbo application.

 

I swear I posted this 4 hours ago when you first posted this, things are happening in this computer, and I am not happy with it right now... :angry:

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Apologies for zombifying the thread, but at the risk of looking/sounding like an idiot, what is this??? I'm sort of guessing an L28 w/OS Giken head, but...i'm not sure. lol. I'm a horrible fan of nostalgia, and this just oozes nostalgic, so if it's possible to have, I definitely want one...Thanks in advance.

 

See below:

072421.jpg

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That may be the R380GP engine. It's got a thermostat housing like the S20, and it's obviously running Lucas-Style Slide Valve Mechanical Fuel Injection. It is NOT an L-28.

 

What IS applicable to this thread is the water manifold in a high specific output engine: each cylinder has it's own take-off so that all water flows in the bottom, up through the head and combustion chamber, and out the top to a common return manifold.

 

The "International Speed Record" is clipped off the bottom left of the page, and I suspect this would shed more light on the origina or usage of hte engine if it weren't obscured.

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Ahh, so for practical purposes, this is unattainable for a personal Z, unless I had a huge block of aluminum and a REALLY good friend with a 5 axis CNC machine.

 

*EDIT*

 

After a few minutes of research (apologies), I have discerned that this particular engine is a Prince GR-8 from, as you said, the Prince R380-II. This engine is very similar to the earlier R380's engine, save for the engines saying "Nissan" instead of "Prince" as they did in the earlier car.

 

It's really interesting, though academic, I think, as the engines were only for race cars and as such, are likely all but impossible to get. Pity. I suppose I'll have to look to the Toyota 5MGE...I really like the odd splayed cam covers.

 

*EDIT* again...

 

The info on that engine can be found here.

Edited by OustedFairlady
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I had a 5MGE.... yeech! Never again. Blew a head gasket and channelled the head to the point of uselessness almost immediately.

 

If you like those splayed-cover heads, the unobtanium unfinished PAECO-GOERTZ head is what you desire. My photos of this SanDiego Swap-Meet Find float about the internet. Comes with the jigs to machine it, and a full set of blueprints (hand-drawn!)

 

I wonder if that guy ever sold it... I realize now my photos of that head date from around 1999/2000. Saw it on the back of a truck as a guy tried to sell it for $$$ at the local Z-Car Club Meeting. I don't even want to think what he paid for it at the Swap Meet. I didn't even want to ask! I know it would depress me...

 

Thinking about it, that head would be wicked-bitchen with my Hillborn Methanol Injection Setup on it! B)

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I looked up the thread with those photos and it seems the webhost has moved.

 

I wasn't aware that the 5MGEs had HG problems too! I have a 7MGTE in my Supra and I solved the BHG problem with ARP head studs and an HKS MLS head gasket. A friend of mine has suggested mating the 5MGE head and the 7MGTE block (I have five...) for better flow, as the 5M was engineered exclusively as an N/A head. I'm not sure if the flow numbers support that claim, since I don't have a flow bench anymore, but it'd be interesting to see.

 

I considered a 5M/7M (called 6M by most) with carburetors or mechanical injection and individual coils to do away with the distributor. Likely sheet metal or machined billet valve covers as well. I think it'd probably go really well with the car in terms of the whole "look".

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