NewZMan Posted September 4, 2007 Author Share Posted September 4, 2007 good idea. I noticed the finger scribe marks right away. you should always use a sanding block. if you don't use a flat surface to sand onto a flat surface, you can see it right away... and if you plan on making it look as good as possible with rustoleum, make sure you stay away from using your hands. it still looks like it's coming out very nice, and even with the hand scribes, id bet it'd be a kick ass paint job for under 100 bucks. Thanks. I took your advice and used a random orbital with 2000 grit and wet sanded the panels again. I really seemed to help. The paint is solid and seems to have hardened up really well. I added a few more pics of the finished deal. It's not show room, but it will be great for an every day driver. It does remind me of the old lacquer finishes though. http://picasaweb.google.com/NewZMan2/280ZRestoreProject/photo?authkey=rZmcty_V38E#5105030621683584658 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted September 4, 2007 Share Posted September 4, 2007 defn' use a block to wetsand black!!! the hardest color to get to look flat and not wavy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted September 4, 2007 Share Posted September 4, 2007 hey sorry i havent posted any pics yet... i still havent done my final wet sand and buff yet on my hood i got sidetracked and and am shaving the bumper indents and side markers and the rear end with the bumper shock holes and everything... ugg its been a long weekend.. i need to make a members project page... well ill get them up soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZMan Posted September 6, 2007 Author Share Posted September 6, 2007 Has anyone heard or read about a clearcoat for this type of paint? I've been looking around but can't seem to find anything. I think a protective clearcoat couldn't hurt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 I hate to say that if that thing spends any time on the road that stuff wil start flying off the car, chiping and pealing. I have to give it to you for a valiant effort, and what seems to be a clean job. I have never had any luck with rattle can paint.......I would think that you will have one hell of a blister on your thumb from using all of those cans as well as one hell of a story to tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexideways Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 I hate to say that if that thing spends any time on the road that stuff wil start flying off the car, chiping and pealing. I have to give it to you for a valiant effort, and what seems to be a clean job. I have never had any luck with rattle can paint.......I would think that you will have one hell of a blister on your thumb from using all of those cans as well as one hell of a story to tell. First, he's using a HVLP gun, not rattle cans and he's not the first one to try this and I haven't heard of any one's paint flying of the car yet... Some got better results than others, but no paint flied off. Read ninth post from the top. http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZMan Posted September 7, 2007 Author Share Posted September 7, 2007 I hate to say that if that thing spends any time on the road that stuff wil start flying off the car, chiping and pealing. I have to give it to you for a valiant effort, and what seems to be a clean job. I have never had any luck with rattle can paint.......I would think that you will have one hell of a blister on your thumb from using all of those cans as well as one hell of a story to tell. Where did you come up with rattle cans? Might want to read the whole post before spoutin off. This type of paint job has been done many times with great results, I'm not the first. No offense, but do some reasearch before you make a blanket statement, makes everyone look a little smarter...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 took a screw driver to a panel i had done and could barely get it to scratch the paint its deffenetly on there and isnt going to "fly off" do some research then make a judgment call Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 Hey i forgot to mention that eastwood has a beautiful range of sanding blocks. get the elongated flexible set. they're a treat! and remember to sand diagonally while holding the block straight (sorta try and guide yourself using the corners of the block, rather than the sides) so the edge of the sand paper doesn't gouge the paint, especially when wet sanding. you'll get exceptional results this way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djbit Posted December 3, 2007 Share Posted December 3, 2007 Which "dryer" did you use????? I finished up putting on the last two coats of paint. I love to paint, but the wet sanding sucks... My mixture is about 2 or 3 to 1 acetone to paint. I made it really thin and with the dryer added it seems to really bring out the shine. I am using a Cornwell gravity feed HVLP gun at about 25lbs. The pressure a little high for the gun, but I really got a good flow. I added a few more pics. The last one is a test section after I sanded with 2000 grit and polished with the compound and wax. I think it is going to turn out great, but I've had enough for today. I really need to find me an electric buffer.. http://picasaweb.google.com/NewZMan2/280ZRestoreProject/photo?authkey=rZmcty_V38E#5105030621683584658 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted December 3, 2007 Share Posted December 3, 2007 here is a few pics of my car that i said i would post some pics but i never did so here ya go. these are actually of me being lazy and not doing my final wet sand and buff this was just how i rolled it on.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZMan Posted December 3, 2007 Author Share Posted December 3, 2007 Which "dryer" did you use????? Maybe that was a misquote by me. What I used is a product called Jap Dryer. It is a paint additive that speeds the drying process up slightly and will make gloss paints dry harder. You can get it a Home Depot along with the paint. I am just about ready to hit the road with my car and hopefully will be posting some finished pics after the first of the year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted December 3, 2007 Share Posted December 3, 2007 Man that looks amazing. So thats just with several coats and wetsanding? No clearcoat or wax huh? Hmmm.... scheming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260zturbo Posted December 3, 2007 Share Posted December 3, 2007 nice im about to spray my job. is that royal blue color? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted December 4, 2007 Share Posted December 4, 2007 honestly thats like probably 8-9 coats with wet sanding between every 2-3 coats and then i wetsanded with 1000 grit and then put 2 final coats on. i was just tired of wetsanding and it was zfest here in daytona and i just threw my car back together so i had it that week.(i also shaved the sidemarkers and the rear end at the same time) and thats my own color i made. i think its like 3quarts royal blue to 1quart black or something like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZMan Posted December 5, 2007 Author Share Posted December 5, 2007 The paint job looks great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stprasinz Posted December 5, 2007 Share Posted December 5, 2007 Hand sanding isn't as bad as you may think... I have hand sanded a many a times.. With my hand.... To be more exact the palm section of the hand..... Also only sand up to bends.. (points) treat a point as different flat points(as in sand up to the point but not over) sand all surfaces but no edges Hmmmm I wonder how much for 2 gallons of rusto, and the sand paper......hmmm I may fix my rear quarters sooner than later... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted December 5, 2007 Share Posted December 5, 2007 (i also shaved the sidemarkers and the rear end at the same time) I've been thinking about doing the same thing. Was it tough? I'm no fabricator, and not that experienced a welder, but I think it might be doable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted December 8, 2007 Share Posted December 8, 2007 hrmm was it tough.... well this was the first time i had ever done any body work but im the type of guy that will dive into almost anything and after i put enough sweat blood and tears into it it comes out ok(yes i had all 3 of these on this project, it was hot out, and i cut my self on some sheet metal and i guess i cried a little bit about it lol yah yah im a cry baby i know lol) but basically take your time making your patches for the indents on the sides and then just start tacking them in place and then a thin coat of body filler over every thing and then SAND SAND SAND SAND oh did i mention sand? till it looks the way you want. and if you sand to much add more filler and keep going.. good luck there is some better write ups on here on how to do it though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted December 8, 2007 Share Posted December 8, 2007 yeah for a rustoleum job and the cost, i think it looks amazing. i would much rather do that then take it to maaco... maybe even if i was trying to sell a car. LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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