dustin280zx Posted September 13, 2007 Share Posted September 13, 2007 did you have a good bit of feed out because of the gun not fitting in there? I learned from welding my headers up (mainly the merge) that I had to turn the feed way up along with the volts when welding with long feed to get a good job. It was my first time welding other than putting two pieces of flat metal together and my headers hold 60 psi. Some of the parts look like "poop" but as experienced welders say "you only get better by more welding." Good job on attempting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted September 17, 2007 Share Posted September 17, 2007 I have a welded R200 in my 280Z. It came that way. Needless to say, much of my mod money is going towards finding something else if that tells you anything. It drives like crap. Steering effort is quite high and it squeals and hops going around corners, etc. I have tire tracks off the road leading up to the start of my driveway. DON'T do this unless you have a DRAG car. The last owner thought it'd be 'neat' for autocross, but between that and the Suspension Techniques big sway bars front and rear it pushes like a pig when off the throttle and pushes like a pig when on the throttle. Not to mention that the original halfshafts have the nut and bolt setup instead of bolt and flange so it won't stay locked tight with all the torsion it must deal with due to the welded differential. I have gr. 8 bolts and aircraft nuts plus lock washers plus tons of red locktite and I still can't get it to stop thunking and popping (halfshaft slop). I am looking for a VLSD. Anyone wanna trade? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted September 17, 2007 Share Posted September 17, 2007 The last owner thought it'd be 'neat' for autocross, but between that and the Suspension Techniques big sway bars front and rear it pushes like a pig when off the throttle and pushes like a pig when on the throttle. Put a smaller bar on fron (25mm) and a bigger bar on back (21mm) and learn how to trial brake like a mother f***er to get the rear end to come around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 Hey Ed, if you can't get it right, come see me, I have diff's torn apart all over my shop as well. We can weld them all together and make some modern art....I'll do the welding though. Just kidding! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 Put a smaller bar on fron (25mm) and a bigger bar on back (21mm) and learn how to trial brake like a mother f***er to get the rear end to come around. I am not sure which size is what (making mental note to measure them), but I am a bit surprised you trail brake to get it to come around. I'd have thought you would want to be on the throttle a bit to do it with power rather than weight distribution, but . I have never tracked an S30 before. Actually I've only tracked AWD turbo cars so that shows you what I know, I guess. Thanks for the info. On a side note, the welded diff seems to make it impossible to keep the bolts on stock halfshafts tight. All that extra torsion seen so much seems to loosen them. Anyone find a decent way to get an impact on them? Hand tight doesn't cut it with one wrench not even on the bolt head really really good. Even with aircraft nuts, lock washers and a boatload of red locktite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 Are you using the stock shoulder bolts? I never had problems with mine coming loose ever. I think the impact on a small diameter bolt is looking for trouble. There are torque specs for a reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 I am not sure which size is what (making mental note to measure them), but I am a bit surprised you trail brake to get it to come around. I'd have thought you would want to be on the throttle a bit to do it with power rather than weight distribution, You need to set the rear up loose and use the brakes to get the back end to start to rotate. You catch it with the throttle and pretty much throttle steer the car around the corner. FYI... this technique is true for slow and medium speed corners (up to about 80 mph). Higher speed corners require a more delicate approach because the car is setup steady state loose mechnaically. Ideally, aero is used to increase rear downforce and move the car from mechnaically loose to aero neutral or slightly understeering. Rain makes it all much more "interesting." On a side note, the welded diff seems to make it impossible to keep the bolts on stock halfshafts tight. All that extra torsion seen so much seems to loosen them. Anyone find a decent way to get an impact on them? Hand tight doesn't cut it with one wrench not even on the bolt head really really good. Even with aircraft nuts, lock washers and a boatload of red locktite. New bolts properly torqued the first time goes a long way to keeping them tight. But, they will eventually loosen. When I ran the welded diff in my car I checked the halfshaft nuts and bolts between every session. Two 14mm thin Snap-On open end wrenches work great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 New bolts properly torqued the first time goes a long way to keeping them tight. But, they will eventually loosen. When I ran the welded diff in my car I checked the halfshaft nuts and bolts between every session. Two 14mm thin Snap-On open end wrenches work great. I will have to check the torque spec but these are all brand new grade 8 fine thread SAE hardware. I put 'em on at "hard as I can with hand tools" tight. I dunno; perhaps they are slightly too small for the diameter of the hole and that's where the slop comes from. How tight are the stock bolts? They have about your typical hole slop; not so tight that you skim any crud off the threads but not like I was feeling I shoulda bought a larger diameter bolt, etc. Maybe there was a 'tweener metric size I should have bought. My stock hardware was rust welded and had to be cut off with a cutoff wheel. I have driven the car in town about 3~5 miles since I installed them and they are already clunking but it doesn't feel like it did when the bolts were coming LOOSE. Just a thud/clunk when doing a very tight and slow turn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 Get new factory bolts, nuts, and lockwashers and tighten them as hard as you can using open end wrenches. Don't use any Locktite. I've tried SAE, AN/MS, and DIN fasteners and always had problems. The Nissan factory halfshaft nuts and bolts work the best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted September 19, 2007 Share Posted September 19, 2007 this is such an active thread, I wanted to jump in on it. On the topic, does anyone have the torque specs for the ring gear and the 4 bolts that hold the bearings in the diff? I just welded the pin on mine and need to put it back together. thanks Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 19, 2007 Share Posted September 19, 2007 this is such an active thread, I wanted to jump in on it. On the topic, does anyone have the torque specs for the ring gear and the 4 bolts that hold the bearings in the diff? Can't quote them off the top of my head, but I know that Austin listed them in his "adding clutches to the R200 thread" and you could search for them also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted September 19, 2007 Share Posted September 19, 2007 Can't quote them off the top of my head, but I know that Austin listed them in his "adding clutches to the R200 thread" and you could search for them also. sorry I didn't search, I know better than that. Just got Lazy. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted September 20, 2007 Share Posted September 20, 2007 Jeff..... If I have any problems for this one with welds breaking loose or what not I'll take you up on your offer. I put her all back together yesterday and polished the rear cover. Gonna give her a go. We have a beach meet Not this but NEXT weekend (9/29) down in Quintana... that's gonna be her trial, then i'm gonna take it apart Sunday (9/30) and inspect it. Hey Jeff... come to think of it... I have another spare pumpkin R200 shortnose do you have the other "inerds" to make another diff? Shoot me a pm on price I'd like to have a spare when this one goes. You guys are making me nervous! lol. Dang... wish I woulda thought of this before hand I woulda let you do it. EDIT Just for clarification this car will be the car I learn to drift with, thus the welded diff, not for drag or auto x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted September 20, 2007 Share Posted September 20, 2007 Jeff..... If I have any problems for this one with welds breaking loose or what not I'll take you up on your offer. I put her all back together yesterday and polished the rear cover. Gonna give her a go. We have a beach meet Not this but NEXT weekend (9/29) down in Quintana... that's gonna be her trial, then i'm gonna take it apart Sunday (9/30) and inspect it. Hey Jeff... come to think of it... I have another spare pumpkin R200 shortnose do you have the other "inerds" to make another diff? Shoot me a pm on price I'd like to have a spare when this one goes. You guys are making me nervous! lol. Dang... wish I woulda thought of this before hand I woulda let you do it. EDIT Just for clarification this car will be the car I learn to drift with, thus the welded diff, not for drag or auto x Well, I just bought a Q45 diff so someone may want to grab my welded R200 outta my '77. It's been that way for quite a while so it must be welded pretty well. On a side note (and yes, you may beat me with the search club but I wanna be SURE before I buy parts), the Modern Motorsports Billet R230 CV kit works for the early nineties Q45 R200 diffs as well, no? I read someone said they actually used a Q45 R200 VLSD for the fitment and sizing of their axles in the kit. I wanna be sure before I pull the trigger on a sizable chunk of parts. In other words, I want to buy http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=32&products_id=65 with the optional axles to build the CV shafts from four Q45 inners like the stickies say. This will get me into a Q45 diff short of a custom front mount and custom propshaft, no? Oh, and thanks to all for fab, fitment and handling advice... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driftz240 Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 helloooo sideways and goodby stub axels...lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted October 28, 2007 Share Posted October 28, 2007 Well... just wanted to let you guys know... Still running the welded diff in the car with no probs. Jeff... I'm still gonna come by and get the spares from ya... school is kickn' my ass right now though. -Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
katman Posted October 29, 2007 Share Posted October 29, 2007 "Well... just wanted to let you guys know... Still running the welded diff in the car with no probs." Yup, that's what two of my racing compadres with welded diff's said just before they broke a stub axle and totalled their cars. Elmer Fudd say: Be vewy, vewy, caweful wif a welded diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted October 29, 2007 Share Posted October 29, 2007 Well... just wanted to let you guys know... Still running the welded diff in the car with no probs. Jeff... I'm still gonna come by and get the spares from ya... school is kickn' my ass right now though. -Ed I finally moved it out of my way, got tired of tripping over it! No problem, just let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted October 29, 2007 Share Posted October 29, 2007 "Well... just wanted to let you guys know... Still running the welded diff in the car with no probs." Yup, that's what two of my racing compadres with welded diff's said just before they broke a stub axle and totalled their cars. Elmer Fudd say: Be vewy, vewy, caweful wif a welded diff. This is in my 240sx, and I have a spare set of axles, however I just rebuilt mine and they were in good shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1U-Zed Posted November 6, 2007 Share Posted November 6, 2007 I welded up my R180 diff in a similar fashion but after welding the spider gears I completely welded up the carrier with a square piece of steal. I have been running this car (610) with a 1uz-fe V8 for about 2 year's with no problems. I will say tho it's not the best idear and is kinda dangerous as "katman" said. Now I have welded the diff the stub axles are the weakest link. but it was cheap and worked here's a vid if you want to see how it drives, kinda out of control at times http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2t9xlu93aAs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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