zthis Posted September 2, 2007 Share Posted September 2, 2007 Hey Guys I'm currently stuck at an 11.008 (excellent air day with slight tail wind) in full street trim i want to get a 10 sec pass on the motor. Motor itself is tuned to the max so i need to do some little things to get the number so far i've.. 1. installed electric water pump 2. removed most of the NOS system and stereo (around 50lbs) i'm considering... 1. switching over to the NOS electric fuel pump (holley blue) vs the motor driven Carter Street strip pump. 2. removing the battery and washer pump covers of the car to let more air out from under the hood however i'm not sure if this will cause a negative aerodynamic effect 3. decreasing front liftrear squat even more by tightening chains and adding more spring rubber i'm currently 60 footing with mid to high 1.5s 4. decreasing rear tire pressure (ET street radials) from 18 to 16 PSI 5. Removing whatever else i can from the car without making it look to much like a race car maybe wiper motor assembly, rear window struts, stock seat belts smaller battery etc etc any advice??? thanks Curtis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted September 2, 2007 Share Posted September 2, 2007 From what your signiture said you gained .5 sec with 150 hp. I think youll have to do more then just some small weight reductions and aerodynamic changes. Just my opinion youll have to build your motor up more to make it to a 10 flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G.I.jonas Posted September 2, 2007 Share Posted September 2, 2007 From what your signiture said you gained .5 sec with 150 hp. I think youll have to do more then just some small weight reductions and aerodynamic changes. Just my opinion youll have to build your motor up more to make it to a 10 flat. Definately...Even though you are at 11 and 10 sounds only a second away-that one second (i'm no expert at this math but)will probably require like 20% or more in power gains and some lightening for good measure.Your stated modifications would probably only just get you into the 10's 10 flat is altogether different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zthis Posted September 2, 2007 Author Share Posted September 2, 2007 From what your signiture said you gained .5 sec with 150 hp. I think youll have to do more then just some small weight reductions and aerodynamic changes. Just my opinion youll have to build your motor up more to make it to a 10 flat. oops time to update my signiture and sorry my mistake it meant to say i'd like to get a 10.999 or better. A 10 Flat would be impossible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 how come your sig says 10.3 sec? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comrade_Charlie Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 he did 10.3 on the motor with 180hp of nitrous. he said he wants to get better than a 10.9999999999 on the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnjdragracing Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 Here is a few secrets that are race proven. SBC 355, use only 4 qts of oil good for a 1/10th second Headers, from the collector, add 18 inches - uncapped - 1/10th second Limited the front end travel and limited the rear end squat travel, will improve 60ft. Try slicks, et street slicks, et drag radials suck. SBC 355 likes timing, if you are running timimg at 36 degrees try 40. Note: more timing from the get go is more power off the line, less timimg means it will pull harder on the other end. If traction is an issue then stick with 36 degrees timing. What type camshaft are you running, hydralic, solid, roller ? Nos / hp cam. What is the center line? Nitrous cams have a higher center line like 110 to 116. HP cams are like a 106 centerline. If you want to run good on HP, then change cams if you have a nitrous cam. Change to a solid roller, less friction. Can't reccomend any thing more on the engine with out more specs. Hope this is helpful.. John Hope these help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quicker240 Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 Man,that last post ought to be a sticky all by itself.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zthis Posted September 3, 2007 Author Share Posted September 3, 2007 Here is a few secrets that are race proven. SBC 355, use only 4 qts of oil good for a 1/10th second Headers, from the collector, add 18 inches - uncapped - 1/10th second Limited the front end travel and limited the rear end squat travel, will improve 60ft. Try slicks, et street slicks, et drag radials suck. SBC 355 likes timing, if you are running timimg at 36 degrees try 40. Note: more timing from the get go is more power off the line, less timimg means it will pull harder on the other end. If traction is an issue then stick with 36 degrees timing. What type camshaft are you running, hydralic, solid, roller ? Nos / hp cam. What is the center line? Nitrous cams have a higher center line like 110 to 116. HP cams are like a 106 centerline. If you want to run good on HP, then change cams if you have a nitrous cam. Change to a solid roller, less friction. Can't reccomend any thing more on the engine with out more specs. Hope this is helpful.. John Hope these help. Thanks John what do you think about removing the 2 covers from the hood to increase air flow out of the engine bay? I've got to stick to mufflers and ET streets to get street car bragging rights I'm running 40 degrees of timing now on 110 octane race fuel currently running a comp cams extreme solid lifter cam 244/254 .520/ .540 lift 110 LSA. Don't think i really want to change any engine internals. Saving the $$$ for a stroked 400. I got the 11.007 with 3.55 gears at 6200 rpm which surprised me alittle i had 3.90 which i was crossing the line at 6800. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 Well, maybe, I don't agree with the 4 quarts or the timing. IMHO the 4 quarts is a bad idea, buy a dry sump system. Timing depends on how good your combustion chamber is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ragefear Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 I'm not so sure the small amounts of weight reduction you have done is really going to cut it. What about bumpers, front wheel drag from large sized front tires. passenger side seat. what about gutting behind the dash? I can't imagine you have an AC system on it. The parasitic drag of the water pump probably doesn't help either. Fiberglass hood? Sound deadening removal? Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zthis Posted September 3, 2007 Author Share Posted September 3, 2007 I'm not so sure the small amounts of weight reduction you have done is really going to cut it. What about bumpers, front wheel drag from large sized front tires. passenger side seat. what about gutting behind the dash? I can't imagine you have an AC system on it. The parasitic drag of the water pump probably doesn't help either. Fiberglass hood? Sound deadening removal? Good luck! All done except passenger seat and fiberglass hood car is 2750 lbs with driver so i've shaved a few lbs already.. the 10.99 Z "wanna be"........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racin_Jason Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 Got a shot of the engine bay? The intake location is routed to outer air? If the car is sorted and hooks well, maybe a colder track day would be enough with the same 60ft? Sounds like you are done with any substantial weight removal and you dont particularly want to go into the engine anytime soon. That leaves getting the most out of what you have, right? Which has the most left in it..traction or power? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4xwellmurd3r Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 the only thing i can think of is find a way for the intake to get more air. it helped my dad's car a bunch after we put on the bigger carbs (wouldn't go faster than 13.00, and wouldn't go slower than 13.02) after we raised the decklid on his bug, it broke 12.8 and kept going faster with adjustments (after a few changes in the cam and intake, it's fastest run is an 11.96 at 107) another thing (i'm not sure if you can) but changing out some of the glass for lexan/plexiglass would lose a ton of weight. especially the rear glass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jap tin Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 Put on a tall front tire and shallow stage the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted September 4, 2007 Share Posted September 4, 2007 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LLave Posted September 4, 2007 Share Posted September 4, 2007 got a leaf blower? http://videos.streetfire.net/video/ab544e3b-5dff-416d-9cfd-a1ad23ca9564.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ragefear Posted September 4, 2007 Share Posted September 4, 2007 The stock hoods weigh a ton, and the passenger side seat is a decent amount as well. Also, I know you said you didn't want to get into the motor, but what about compression? or timing? different head gasket (different thickness)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialk Posted September 4, 2007 Share Posted September 4, 2007 Note that your cam is a 110 LSA and John suggests 106. Note that you're only talking 9 thousands of a second improvement to make your mark and (IIRC) every 100lbs can be 1 tenth of a second. At that area, assuming everything else you do is correct every time, eating a smaller meal or going to the bathroom before the race could be the difference Seriously though, if you can find 50 lbs (hood and/or passenger seat?) you should easily pass the number. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zthis Posted September 4, 2007 Author Share Posted September 4, 2007 Guys thanks for the posts some real good ideas i realize i won't need much but why stop at a 10.99. John at JNJracing take a look at the picture of my launch posted above do you think that is too much rear squat if so i'll add another round of rubber in the rear springs? Jap Tin i'd forgotten about shallow staging a few inches head start can't hurt either I think i can swing something of a cold air intake to the carb. I normally race with no breather so i'm not sure how that will all work out. i'm also considering a trip to the dyno just to make sure i'm shifting at the optimum RPM. Anyone know how many (if any) HP can be gained by switching from a mechanical to electric fuel pump? Any other ideas i'm racing saturday???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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