JustinOlson Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 I'm looking at having a set of plates like this machined for my 280z. What are you guys thoughts on a upper plate like this? Regards, Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 Can't offer any insight, but I sure like the theory behind those camber plates. This is the first time seeing something like that.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 There isn't much room inside a Z strut tower. You're better off doing an adjustable TC rod for the caster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 The camber/caster plates seem like a nice idea but as Jon mentioned you don't have much movement. On my GC plates there's only about 1/4 inch that I can get out of the caster adjustment. I don't think that will get you too much. The problem I see with the above design is that it won't be very stiff the way it is built. All the compression is against a thin piece of metal and my guess is you'll lose a lot from this. I think the design could be improved upon but it would need more depth to make up the stiffness. Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted September 4, 2007 Share Posted September 4, 2007 I don't know what it is, but on every S13 install of pillow ball mounts, no matter how tight or how perfect the suspension is dialed in, I see the camber plates scarred and shaved and the suspension at full neg or full pos camber all the time. The bolts don't grip as well as they should. what do you guys do to remedy that problem? what are those nuts that have the serrated base? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted September 4, 2007 Share Posted September 4, 2007 Never ever seen the bolts move on an S30. I just tighten mine to about 10 ft/lbs. Mine have some marks from adjusting them so often, but no scars from slipping. Not sure why an S13 would be any different. One thing I did notice early on is that it is MUCH harder to adjust the camber plates with the suspension off the ground. If they're fighting the suspension when they're making adjustments, that might explain why their plates are all scarred up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted September 4, 2007 Share Posted September 4, 2007 One thing I did notice early on is that it is MUCH harder to adjust the camber plates with the suspension off the ground. If they're fighting the suspension when they're making adjustments, that might explain why their plates are all scarred up. yeah that's probably it, as they try to do it as quickly as possible to get more laps in on track days. trying to do 4000 things at once, you start to miss some things. good stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buZy Posted September 4, 2007 Share Posted September 4, 2007 I like the idea too. Not sure about how the spring seat would be properly incorporated into that design though..... FWIW johnc biscut camber plates would better accomplish the same overall task, and with no mods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted September 4, 2007 Share Posted September 4, 2007 As stated above, there's not much surface area at the top of an S30 strut tower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted September 11, 2007 Author Share Posted September 11, 2007 Say I was going to a non adjustable lower control arm but weld in camber plates like Arizona Z Car or Techno Tuning. Would it be beneficial to move the weld in plate back on the top of the strut tower? How much would I want to move it back to gain caster? How much caster do S30's have stock? How much would I want to run on a Hoosier 275/35-15 tire? Regards, Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 With a wider tire (wider then let's say 245) you generally reduce the amount of static negative camber based on your tire temp readings. IMHO, caster is a good thing because it allows a further reduction in static negative camber in front and helps load the inside rear wheel in corners. The tradeoffs are increased steering effort, worse scrub, and more tire/body interference. On the ROD with 275 width tires I ran about 8 degrees of postive caster and 2.8 negative camber on the front. When I was running 225 width tires I ran 6 degrees postive caster and 3.5 degrees negative camber. Again, all the above is IMHO. Other people have different opinions regarding caster and camber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted September 12, 2007 Share Posted September 12, 2007 Say I was going to a non adjustable lower control arm but weld in camber plates like Arizona Z Car or Techno Tuning. Would it be beneficial to move the weld in plate back on the top of the strut tower? How much would I want to move it back to gain caster? How much caster do S30's have stock? How much would I want to run on a Hoosier 275/35-15 tire? I would move the plate as far back as you can. To get lots of caster will require that you push the wheel forward and the larger the tire the quicker this gets into the fender. John's 8 degrees is going to take a lot of cutting to make work. Anything you can cheat on the top is going to help with this. And if you plan to race where there's rules regarding wheel base or pickup point movement you should think about that before you start welding. Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted September 12, 2007 Author Share Posted September 12, 2007 Cool, I'll work on it. What is the factory caster at? Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators RTz Posted September 12, 2007 Administrators Share Posted September 12, 2007 What is the factory caster at? Assuming your car is unmodified, the FSM say's a 280z is between 2 deg.-3min., to 3 deg.-33 min... In my experience, 3 deg. should be pretty close to nominal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted September 12, 2007 Share Posted September 12, 2007 And if you plan to race where there's rules regarding wheel base or pickup point movement you should think about that before you start welding. That's a very good point. I built the ROD to run in an unlimited class so the changes I made in wheelbase, track, ride height, and other things might be illegal in more restrictive race classes. Buy the rule book first! 8 degrees of caster sounds like a lot, but its not that unusual. My 1986 Mercedes 420SEL had 11 degrees of postive caster from the factory and my 2006 350Z has 9. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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