NismoZ Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 Hi guys, just want a little info on some N/A non stroker builds if its possible. I am currently planning on building a l28 up and wanted to know if any of you have built a big bore non stroked (79mm) l6 with a full race ported head big cams, valves and light weight valve train? Considering all i can find is stroker builds I was curious if this has been done and and what kind of power it put out.Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 Only one cam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nizm0Zed Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 NismoZ, not to be confused with Nizm0zed!!!! Im heaps cooler :mrgreen: i refer you here, http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ Much coolness in that program, lets you see rough ideas of the completed engine, and play around with combo's too, And its FREE!!!!! just a quick one i threw up there, using a L26 block, and LD28 crank (diesel) with L26 rods and pistons you get a square bore engine that'd rev really well. Changing the head adjusts the comp ratio (note, i have it set with a 2.0mm head gasket), if you could only get a 1.8mm gasket, you could allways get .2mm skimmed off the top of the pistons) E31 head - 10:1 comp ratio E88 head - 10:1 comp ratio N47 head - 9.65:1 comp ratio P90 head - 8.37:1 comp ratio Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 fast z Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 An L series can have two cams, hehe. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austin240Z Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 An L series can have two cams, hehe. . haha, get me a hack saw, I'll make your SOHC into a DOHC for $5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NismoZ Posted November 9, 2007 Author Share Posted November 9, 2007 Tanks for the help, and thanks for the link NismoZed. So i take it nobody did a non stroker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 " l6 with a full race ported head big cams, valves and light weight valve train?" We did all that, well no big valves, only a .040" overbore so it doesn't qualify as 'big bore', standard valve train components nothing lightweight particularly...and come to think of it, it wasn't that 'big' of a cam, either. It was good enough to go 173.325 in F/PRO class at Bonneville, with a power peak at 8250rpms, and shiftpoints at 8500. The same head produced peak power at 8775 rpms when applied to a 2-Liter (0.020" overbore, notched block for valve clearance as it's a 79 mm BORE) and destroked to keep cylinder capacity within class specifications. It's shiftpoints were at 9300 to 9500 depending on gear spread. Around 320 to the rear wheels in 2.8 form, and 205 to the rear wheels in 2.0 form (only 11:1 CR in the 2 liter...those big L28 Combustion Chambers just don't get filled by a 79mm Pop Top Piston, no matter how much you pop it up!) So mine probably doesn't fit your narrow criteria. But what you are asking for is something that isn't needed. Why do you 'need' all that crap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedgato Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 I have a 3.0 (well 2.98) non-stroked motor. I need to get the stat sheet from work for the details. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NismoZ Posted November 12, 2007 Author Share Posted November 12, 2007 " l6 with a full race ported head big cams, valves and light weight valve train?" We did all that, well no big valves, only a .040" overbore so it doesn't qualify as 'big bore', standard valve train components nothing lightweight particularly...and come to think of it, it wasn't that 'big' of a cam, either. It was good enough to go 173.325 in F/PRO class at Bonneville, with a power peak at 8250rpms, and shiftpoints at 8500. The same head produced peak power at 8775 rpms when applied to a 2-Liter (0.020" overbore, notched block for valve clearance as it's a 79 mm BORE) and destroked to keep cylinder capacity within class specifications. It's shiftpoints were at 9300 to 9500 depending on gear spread. Around 320 to the rear wheels in 2.8 form, and 205 to the rear wheels in 2.0 form (only 11:1 CR in the 2 liter...those big L28 Combustion Chambers just don't get filled by a 79mm Pop Top Piston, no matter how much you pop it up!) So mine probably doesn't fit your narrow criteria. But what you are asking for is something that isn't needed. Why do you 'need' all that crap? Thanks for the reply, So your saying i don't need All that head work to achieve 300 hp? Wouldn't a Lighter valve train improve reliability and efficiency at higher rpms compared to a stock one? I want to build the most efficient L6 possible. So what head, rod and crank combo did you use to achieve 320 to the rear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZeder Posted November 13, 2007 Share Posted November 13, 2007 I have one - well it is not together yet but it will be 10:1 CR using N42 block and head, Stock L28 rods, and Crank with some old stock TOMEI 90mm pistons = 3015cc my cam is a custom grind and the engine will be running triple DCOE throttle bodies (when I complete the project). The N42 head had to have alloy removed to get it down to 10:1 due to the larger bore at 90mm (ie 4 mm over or 0.160) As stated the engine is not together bottom end is complete and head is complete I just need some more $$ for a few minor things and the body work of the car to be complete. This is going in my road zed so 10:1 is required so I can run pump gas so it will be mild time will tell when I get it on a dyno when I get that far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted November 13, 2007 Share Posted November 13, 2007 Thanks for the reply, So your saying i don't need All that head work to achieve 300 hp? Wouldn't a Lighter valve train improve reliability and efficiency at higher rpms compared to a stock one? I want to build the most efficient L6 possible. So what head, rod and crank combo did you use to achieve 320 to the rear? Where did I say that? Full Race Porting was about ALL we did on your list. We used standard sized tuliped valves (flow increase, not weight), standard retainers, standard keepers, better springs, standard rocker arms... It was on an E88 Head with reworked ports, stock L28 Crank with 240 Rods, though in the L20A we are using a set of L20B rods. Porting is required, but reasonably you will not get there with a streetable engine. And 320 was with 0.080" scores down all six bores because the piston pins walked and touched off on the cylinder walls. It went that speed blowing by like crazy, and down on power. Engines like this aren't really pulling below 5000 rpms, the L20A below 6000. Not exactly 'streetable' though with 14.7:1 Compression Ratio on the L28 I suppose low speed tractibility with a heavier flywheel would pull decently... For 300 on the street, Turbo is a far more practical way to go, IMO. Cheaper too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NismoZ Posted November 16, 2007 Author Share Posted November 16, 2007 Oh sorry about that Tony I read you last post wrong, I got to start getting more sleep... NZeder I look forward to hearing about your finished project and seeing how it turns out... Question for you guys,whats the biggest bore you can achieve on a L28 Block safely? 89mm, or is 90 obtainable without compromising structural integrity in the block? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted November 20, 2007 Share Posted November 20, 2007 I have heard arguments made that 89 mm is too much to bore... needless to say the answer to that question will vary depending upon who you ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZeder Posted November 20, 2007 Share Posted November 20, 2007 I know of at these 3 blocks at 90mm all are N42's one was build 11 years ago and still going strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted November 21, 2007 Share Posted November 21, 2007 I saw some crazy big stuff in Japan in the 80's done on N42 Blocks.... Big Bore? Some would use the excuse 'I'm just unshrouding the valves for better flow characteristics!' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZeder Posted November 21, 2007 Share Posted November 21, 2007 I saw some crazy big stuff in Japan in the 80's done on N42 Blocks.... Big Bore? Some would use the excuse 'I'm just unshrouding the valves for better flow characteristics!' LOL Re the N42 too stuff a contact in Japan told me to get the early N42 block (easily identifiable) for any large "unshrouding work" and after a few years of search here in NZ I found one - only one so far (I believe in Japan they are now rare and hard to fine) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted November 21, 2007 Share Posted November 21, 2007 The N42 Block is easy to come by in the states. I have I bought off eBay for $10. The N42 head is what you're really after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted November 21, 2007 Share Posted November 21, 2007 What you're looking for here in the US is a N42 block out of a 1975 280Z. Those had the highest nickel content of any L6 block sold here in the states. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 fast z Posted November 21, 2007 Share Posted November 21, 2007 From what Ive tested (with a grinder, and color of sparks compared to later blocks) 75-76 seems to be the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogriz91 Posted November 22, 2007 Share Posted November 22, 2007 What you're looking for here in the US is a N42 block out of a 1975 280Z. Those had the highest nickel content of any L6 block sold here in the states. Is that a better block choice than the F54? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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