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Made it to the dyno


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Haha not doubting that man .. not at all .. like said your flow numbers, the fact that some junkyard turboes and minimal tuning show this much hp is a sing of many good things to happen :) very curious to see it person!

 

however "back yard" engineering .. your shop has a better rep than that !! ;)

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The Electromotive Cars pushing 800+ HP were not 2.5L GTU cars. They were 2.8's (probably 2.8 bored .040" as allowed by rule, and for valve unshrouding).

 

But as to this:

"The Electromotive cars had completely different combustions chamber designs that were re-shaped, re-welded and had many many hours of skilled work, massive valves, porting and polishing that humbled the best builders and not to mention a very custom cam. "

 

Up till last year, the same people who worked on the Electromotive heads were available to do the SAME THING to your street car. The head, along with the Cam designed by the same person who did the Electromotive Cam Development work all set up and ready for delivery was around $2400.

 

You can get the same cam to day, from the same supplier.

unfortunately the head builder will not longer do L-Heads, he's moved on. But truthfully Dave Rebello is getting similar flow numbers from STOCK SIZED VALVES, so don't put much credence in old porting technology. Porting technology is moving on, and with NC Machinery the consistency one can achieve on a port-to-port basis is astounding.

 

As for welded combustion chambers....someone here who I am not at liberty to divulge is doing some pretty nice combustion chamber reworking. I have seen photos, and I am salivating to see the results!

 

In the quote from R&T above, note there is obviously some 'understatement' saying the engines eventually made 700HP. That would be rock-solid reliable for a 24 hour race '700hp', afterall, 720 hp is only a 2.7% error in stated horsepower...hardly worth mentioning or parsing.

 

But just like the L28ET makes 180HP, you KNOW the engine is capable of MUCH MORE for short bursts. Or even prolonged bursts.

 

The difference in spark control technology now is the primary reason that increased, RELIABLE power is available from the L-Engine.

 

Bryan, what gap are you running on your plugs? You may want to consider .020-.025" as anything wider may get the spark kernel blown out at boost. It may be spark generation related, but usually guys running higher boost for the first time don't realize the gap needs to be closed up from what an N/A engine normally runs.

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Guest 280ZForce

congrats on the 1st time #s and for finally getting it on the dyno to show a rough base starting # before you start getting into fine tuning and adjustments.

 

Can't wait to see it crank out more power, the potential is far from over, just need better turbos that can handle that kinda breath.

 

Good luck on the future runs, we're all pulling for ya.

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If you want to set up time in SoCal aroudn MSA Bryan, I'm sure JeffP and I can arrange a "Dyno Day" where we rent the Mustang Jeff tunes on for a whole day, and we split the cost. I know a couple of other people who might be interested, and we can set them up as 'alternates' in case something breaks, or we all get the results we want early and quick enough. I wouldn't want more than three or four people, and if I'm operating the Dyno it knocks $25 off the hourly rate...

 

With the Mustang, we can set the grad for inertial runs so you have plenty of time to loiter at a load point. As well as setting RPM points we don't want you to exceed, and the Dyno will Autoload to prevent the car from accelerating past that point.

 

You think your exhaust glowed on quick Dyno-Jet Inertial Passes! Wait till you hold the load for five seconds and let your EGT and AFR stabilize!

 

Frankly, doing the test in Febuary would probably be better. It's not racing season, and the ability to get the dyno for a whole day, as well as having cool days for great air density is better. Peak Power, highest loadings possible.

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Spark gap is at .025", I will knock it down to .022 or so once higher boost is reached. But for a DAILY DRIVEn street car, I tell you what, it works pretty well, and not much is faster on the street. Block is a stock N42 (I use my F54,s for when I go to the lake with my boat, and need something to keep my from drifting to shore while Im bottom fishing). Its bored to 89mm, with 83 stroke.

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:nono:

 

Puns are my sole domain!:D

 

 

Brilliant one' date=' though!:icon14:[/quote']

"The goodness of the true pun is in the direct ratio of its intolerability." — Edgar Allan Poe :wink:

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The stock T3's run out around 12 psi on an L but not from the boost but from flow. He's running two. They are good for an easy 27 psi at 70%. Looking at the map he shouldn't have a problem getting an 600 rwhp and maybe some more out of them, especially with how easy his motor makes power. I've seen alot of dynos were the cars make more than the turbo should have.

 

A 750 flywheel hp Electromotive car would only be making a little over 600 rwhp. Another 10 psi should have him easily above that.

 

Bryan, we could have stayed on there longer if your radiator cap wasn't burping and your WG controller was working right :D

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I am not going to be a "happy camper" if the Admins have to daily baby sit and edit this thread like we had to on this one...http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120659

 

From here on out this thread is to be kept tech orientated, post are to be directly related to the thread's subject, and intelligent questions and comments are to be posted or they will be deleted....PERIOD....:icon54:

 

 

 

LARRY

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i thought you were going to tune it on the street ??????

 

JeffP did most of his low-pass tuning, up to about 70 mph on the street. I already talked with Bryan about doing tuning on that range of power sweeps and saving his dyno time for the 70-140mph passes. It just becomes impractical to tune (not to mention seriouly unsafe) those boost ranges on the street.:nono:

 

One the primary reasons is the Datalogging. There is absolutely no way to watch anything you are doing on a flatland pull from 70-120 in fourth gear. If Bryan's car is like JeffP's (and I am laying money it is) he will simply start smoking the tires at 75-80mph when the boost comes on unless he ballasts the back of the car and has a heavy passenger in it. This is my purpose in Jeff's car: Ballast. The FairladyZ DOES have a traction advantage in that the torqueover is slightly better because of where a single-driver vehicle has it's weight (on the right instead of the left).

 

To keep Jeff's engine making steady slow sweeps, we simply increase the Grade Percentile and it makes for a pull slow enough that you can WATCH what is happening all the way, and then look at the Datalog afterwards to confirm what you will need to do to the AFR or spark or whatever. Without running at LEAST a 17% grade, Jeff's engine will pull 70-120 in less than 4 seconds. Even at 13-17% grade, the passes are only slightly slower. I'm guessing Bryan's car is accelerating harder from 70-120 than most cars are doing 0-30! :eek: Bryan, you may want to go JDM and get a G-Nose on that car to keep the front end glued to the road at speed. You will start getting light at 170 with that open maw. Time to read the Aerodynamics Threads!!! :eek:

 

One drawback to tuning on the street has, is that the vehicle operator steadfastly keeps one hand on the wheel while making passes. Where is the car going to go that you need to steer?????? And KTM is correct, he knows where we are tuning, and if the strap breaks, no amount of steering crankage is going to do anything but fold the wheels into a specific angle when you hit that concrete wall 12 feet in front of you!

 

I jsut got my United FF update. I have enough for Two Supersaver 25K mile awards in the lower 48. So that means I have the ability to set up the video. Please e-mail or PM me with your schedule so I can coordinate it: turbotony@excite.com. Thanks! Peace.

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