mull Posted November 23, 2007 Share Posted November 23, 2007 I sandblasted my z down to bare metal and applied POR 15 Silver... That's it? No Marine Clean? No Metal Ready? I'm curious since I'm thinking of getting my car sandblasted (again) to cover it with POR15 since I don't trust the epoxy primer. It's too easy to sand through so I want POR15. What I don't want is to have to use metal ready and get my poor car wet... Get's me paranoia : ) Anyone know how long you can store unopened cans of POR15 without it getting useless (separates, won't stick etc). I've had some cans standing around for two years now. According to POR15 in Sweden it's still good to use after up to - you guessed it - two years. What are your experiences? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S30TRBO Posted November 23, 2007 Share Posted November 23, 2007 That's it? No Marine Clean? No Metal Ready? Anyone know how long you can store unopened cans of POR15 without it getting useless (separates, won't stick etc). I've had some cans standing around for two years now. According to POR15 in Sweden it's still good to use after up to - you guessed it - two years. What are your experiences? Mull, I have never used any of the prep products. I have always just applied it. If you have cans standing around with NO lids on them it should be hard as a rock and useless. If you can't stir it with a paint stick throw them away and start fresh. You can use my tip below for the new cans. I take a plastic bag, cut it to hang over the top of the can. Put the bag on the opening and attach the lid on top. It makes it so you can take the lid off easier and will give you about a week. Plus you might have to stir or shake it before you take the lid off Someone else suggested to flip the can over so the skin will be on the bottom of the can vise the top. Good Idea!! Here are some FAQ from POR-15 site Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200sxdatsun Posted November 23, 2007 Share Posted November 23, 2007 This stuff works great. My car sat if a field for over a year with no floor board . The roll bar, frame,and door jams was coated . There was not a single pit of rust. The car had humitiy tramp in it because of the floor being missing, mold was all inside the car ,but no rust....It save alot of damage that could have happen..... + por-15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted November 23, 2007 Share Posted November 23, 2007 All i have to say about POR is look at the Rust Bullet comparison tests on the RB website. The fellow that sold me the Rust Bullet used to work for POR, too. =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200sxdatsun Posted November 23, 2007 Share Posted November 23, 2007 Well looking at the website , all of the passing panels in the test look about the same. One thing they are trying to say is that it is cheaper, That is if you want the gray, if you want the black finish you have to buy the gray and then put the black over that. I mite be reading it wrong ,The gray looks good and if I ever need gray I will try it out. It seams in less you car doulbles and a salt water going vessel , these products work good. Thanks for the heads up, didn't even know there was a rust bullet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boy from Oz Posted November 23, 2007 Share Posted November 23, 2007 I raised the subject of "weld-through primers" on the welding/fabrication forum a few weeks ago but got no posts - this is perhaps a better thread to raise it again. I would like to hear from experienced panel shop guys. The primers are recommended for lap joint welds associated with the frame rails. http://www.search-autoparts.com/searchautoparts/article/articleDetail.jsp;jsessionid=HHH2Rh37M25tPgyTQlGVLJvBZq1p7Dy5h30yKC5J2PLv483C6L22!332306947?id=35942 Here is some discussion on the topic from Alfa owners - if anyone knows about rust it would be Alfa owners! http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/car-restoration/34075-priming-metal-before-welding.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metallicar Posted November 24, 2007 Share Posted November 24, 2007 Here is a thread with some help I hope: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108261&highlight=racerx I'm looking for more.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted November 24, 2007 Author Share Posted November 24, 2007 I found this web site. They really prefer the zero rust over POR. http://www.autobodystore.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7576 I think I will just sandblast to clean metal and use the epoxy primer. It is suppose to hold up well if not top coated right away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted November 24, 2007 Share Posted November 24, 2007 Well looking at the website , all of the passing panels in the test look about the same. One thing they are trying to say is that it is cheaper, That is if you want the gray, if you want the black finish you have to buy the gray and then put the black over that. I mite be reading it wrong ,The gray looks good and if I ever need gray I will try it out. It seams in less you car doulbles and a salt water going vessel , these products work good. Thanks for the heads up, didn't even know there was a rust bullet. they carry black, as well as automotive black which is entitled "blak cote" and it's 30% thinner, so you need two applications. Raff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
78280z Posted November 26, 2007 Share Posted November 26, 2007 Has anyone used POR-15, Rust Bullet, and Zero Rust and compared how well they work? I am in the process of restoring my 78 280z and Zero Rust's low price tag is lookin good considering my student budget. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeatrpi Posted November 27, 2007 Share Posted November 27, 2007 I can claim 2/3. A buddy used POR-15 on his Jeep. He said the prep was a pain with the two chemicals. Poor adhesion / peeling on clean or lightly rusted steel. He had some rust come back under the POR too. I've used Rust Bullet. Prep is easy - I wire brushed the scale off and sanded it lightly. Applied two coats and topcoated with rustoleum. I had some rust return where I did not get adequate coverage in a hard to reach place. I wish it wasn't so expensive. Edit - where in NY? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
78280z Posted December 2, 2007 Share Posted December 2, 2007 Upstate NY. But, the Z will be a garage queen in the winter since I have an AWD Subie for fun in the snow. I think I'll go with Zero Rust though, I just can't afford the others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeatrpi Posted December 3, 2007 Share Posted December 3, 2007 Ah, ok. There's a couple of us in the hudson valley, a few nearby in CT, NJ and the city. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.