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Bob_H

Oil pan baffle trap door design?

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Just make sure that the 1/2" clearance is from the actual pipe pickup point and not from the screen - as that has no effect on the pickup suction.

-Bob

 

Yes its 1/2" from the pickup point and not the screen.

 

The diamond shape size was made so that when the trap doors open they did not hit the pickup pipe if the diamond shape was smaller then they would.

 

Also remember that when both front or rear doors open if they are spaced too close together then they will catch.

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Something to consider on door design - the doors don't need to open all the way - I'd say up to about 30-40 degrees max. If you look at many aftermarket designs - they have travel limiters for the doors anyways which limit it to about 20-30 degrees total opening. I don't know if you incorperated that into your design or not.

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Something to consider on door design - the doors don't need to open all the way - I'd say up to about 30-40 degrees max. If you look at many aftermarket designs - they have travel limiters for the doors anyways which limit it to about 20-30 degrees total opening. I don't know if you incorperated that into your design or not.

 

Yes have built in travel limiter into the flaps, have taken out the original pin and replaced with metal rod that is slightly thinner, then at both ends it is turned in at a angle so it only open part way about 35 degrees the thinner rod also allows less friction between the two hindges the photos are the mock up and uses garden wire to see if it all worked OK.

Oil Pan Flaps 001_thumb.jpg

Oil Pan Flaps 002_thumb.jpg

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I'm about to embark on the RB pan odyssey for a customer. Did any of you guys finish yours and are happy with the results?

 

FYI... I might make a production run of 5 or 10 or so if the cost works out unless there is a solution already made.

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I'm about to embark on the RB pan odyssey for a customer. Did any of you guys finish yours and are happy with the results?

 

FYI... I might make a production run of 5 or 10 or so if the cost works out unless there is a solution already made.

 

John, any further work on this project?

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The pan and pickup are built and in the car. I'm waiting for the startup and for the car to be run for a while before I decided whether I'm building and selling the pan. Filling it with water it looks like its will hold 7 to 8 quarts but i need to check what the dipstick shows.

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The pan and pickup are built and in the car. I'm waiting for the startup and for the car to be run for a while before I decided whether I'm building and selling the pan. Filling it with water it looks like its will hold 7 to 8 quarts but i need to check what the dipstick shows.

 

Hi John any pictures of the pan/pick up before you fitted it ?

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I uploaded some into one of my albums here:

 

http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=942&ppuser=7945

 

Trap doors are Viton flaps similar to what BMW does on their motorsports pans.

 

Great design work john can you tell me more about the Viton flaps please & what they are made from.

 

Dave

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I'm having oil pickup problems with my RB when on track, current trap door setup is fine for acceleration and braking but sucks for cornering. So I plan to add another box around the pickup.

 

 

Metal hinges or rubber flaps?

 

Diamond or square? In my head square with the side of the sump works best but I see more at 45 degrees to the side (diamond shape if you will) so I assume this is bettter but I can't work out why?

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I had to look back through your old build thread - you have a very big sump area so not very suprising. 

To answer your #1 question, diamond is what I would do - nearly every good aftermarket pan I looked at had it setup that way.  

 For the "why", my best thoughts as a long ago mechanical engineer would be that rarely are the forces purely side to side - they often have a component of accel or decel - so some of that fluid will move forward or aft as well as to the side.  The diamond better handles that situation vs a square parallel to the sides of the sump.  In pure fore/aft acceleration/decelaration - the square and diamond should perform the same. 

 Your problem is in turns at the track - so you have slight accel with side loading - so the fluid/oil is trying to go to the side and back of the sump. (or if braking/slowing, to the side/front). 

 That is my best guess - but that is not my area of expertise.  As you observed, I just saw many competition pans built that way, so I used my logic above, and went with the diamond since I couldn't run calcuations either way. 

 Second - I personally wouldn't worry about the drain at the back of the head - read back on post 14 for some more background info on why I would say that.  That is Chiefrd who used to post here among other places and still builds very high end/high power RB motors,(and SRs, etc..) over in Japan. 

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I think I'll try to to for a diamond shape box with two rubber flaps per side and another straight baffle plate behind that with at least 4 of the rubber flaps.

 

 

 

Not all that happy with my sump so I'm considering getting a new one made to my design. There a guy in Australia who's sumps look good. 

 

http://www.cjfab.com.au/?page_id=225

 

Thinking about one of those but with a larger tray and my design of baffling. It has a cnc flange so at least it should be level unlike mine which would make sealing it much easier.

 

 

 

I'll upload some photos of the above sump and my current one and see who think it better to modify mine or start with a new one.

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