JIM73240Z Posted December 26, 2007 Share Posted December 26, 2007 for x-mas, the wife got me a car trailer to haul the track car around on. for all of you guys that have hauled these things areound, what should i look for. first off, i highly doubt that i will ever get to the point that i will be traveling multi days to an event. i wouls say that an enclosed trailer is out. i know the z will fit on a 16' but i was going to get the 20' for the extra room and spare tires. any thing i should look for would be greatly appreciated. jimbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Posted December 26, 2007 Share Posted December 26, 2007 Wait a minute, if she already got it for you as in "the wife got me a car trailer", isn't it a little late to worry about what to get? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kennysgreen280zt Posted December 26, 2007 Share Posted December 26, 2007 I like dual axle setups. Usually flat bed, so you can haul other things if need be (furniture,dirt,wood, whatever) as many tie down points as you can get. Also, for those unforseen time when you may not be able to get the car up there, a winch is rad. I also like to have trailers with a bit lower ride height, it makes it easier to load and unload a low Z. HTH Kenny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIM73240Z Posted December 26, 2007 Author Share Posted December 26, 2007 well, she handed me the add to a place that sells them and we are going to look around tomorrow. just looking for things to look for and to avoid. is it better to get the wood planks or a metal decking. i want to get storage compartments. definitly a low trailer. saw some that were tilting. maybe. i dunno. jimbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted December 26, 2007 Share Posted December 26, 2007 if the whole deck tilts and is low to start with your z will be easier to load.when you have a trailer with ramps the car usually bottems out on the back of the trailer.if you get a 20' deck it should probably have to 3000lb axles with brakes-a 20' is likely to get a big load on it like a tractor at the rental yard or fire wood-or a friends old cadillac.the local stock car racers around here build very light and low frame/ramp trailers with no springs-they tie the car down around the tires and the car suspension takes the hit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted December 26, 2007 Share Posted December 26, 2007 I have a Haulmark and I'll caution you that they all make entry to upper end models... Mine is the "Edge" series 24 footer, and although it does the trick, their "RACE CAR" series is a better made trailer. When I load my pig/penis car into the Haulmark, it's heavy enough that it pulls the side entry door out of alignment, making it hard to close. The RACE CAR series trailers have a heavier frame, and stud setup, with a flat roof, which aids in the construction/strength. Regardless which trailer you get, and length does not matter, if you do nothing else, PAY ATTENTION TO THIS NEXT "BIT" of info... GET the HEAVIER AXLES. DO NOT SCRIMP with the 3500# axles. Most guys think they can load 7K into the trailer, but you have to deduct the weight of the trailer from the 7K# rating. So that leaves you with about 3500# cargo. Add tools, extra tires, and all the other assorted crap that end up in your car trailer and you'll get well above 3500# in cargo weight. We rolled across the scales in my Dodge with my Haulmark and the Porsche. I wanted to see what the total weight was, and with four 5gallon jugs of fuel, and all the other stuff loaded in the trailer, the car, fully fueled up, and extra wheels and tires, the total "package" truck and trailer weight was 21054#. My Dodge 3500 Cummins is about 12K# of that, so we were close to the trailer limit. And here's the kicker... Your insurance company will figure out ever ounce of weight to see if you were over the limit if you're involved in an accident. If you were, you're liable for any incident while towing... Just a something to think about... So regardless of size, get the heavier axles... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted December 26, 2007 Share Posted December 26, 2007 Regardless how low the trailer is, you'll need to either buy, or make ramp extnsions. I've got a beavertail fold down and I had to make some 2X10 5ft. long extensions. I killed a GT2 front spoiler on my Penis car trying to "get by" without them... Bank on spending a few bucks on some e-track and other goodies for it, and don't fall for the fancy aluminum doo-dads that screw to the wall. I have a bunch, and you're better off going to walmart for simple ideas on how to hold "stuff" in your trailer... I should probably take pics of how mine's setup... There are some things I like, and some things I'd not recommend to others to do! Mike well, she handed me the add to a place that sells them and we are going to look around tomorrow. just looking for things to look for and to avoid. is it better to get the wood planks or a metal decking. i want to get storage compartments. definitly a low trailer. saw some that were tilting. maybe. i dunno. jimbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted December 26, 2007 Share Posted December 26, 2007 Avoid the wooden decks. I've got a 20 foot metal deck with dual axels and a beaver tail. Mike is right about the longer ramps. Mine trailer is 15 years old and it is showing its age. If I was to buy another open trailer, I would buy a name brand all aluminum trailer. Light weight and it wont rust. I did put bed liner on my trailer deck and ramps. It made loading the car on wet trailer much easier. Wet steel and slicks don't mix well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mayolives Posted December 26, 2007 Share Posted December 26, 2007 I had a Featherlite model 3111. It is one of the best open alum. trailers made. Light weight, well built, long ramps for smooth loading and pulled easily. Also, they hold their valve. I used mine for two years and sold it for almost what I paid for it. If I was in the market for another open trailer, this would be my choice.(http://www.fthr.com/trailerimages/3111/3111-curbside) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted December 26, 2007 Share Posted December 26, 2007 If I were going to buy a new aluminum trailer I'd also look at the Featherlights or the Trailex trailers like Jim McNemar uses. Those things are amazingly light weight, and hold their value. That said, having an enclosed trailer to hunker down in when the weather isn't cooperating is awesome. In November when I was in West Va. at Summit Point, it was 42 degrees outside and windy. Even though I didn't have heat in it, the ability to get out of the elements and relax was well worth it. Heck I've been known to put my feet up and catch a little shuteye between sessions in my Haulmark. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TX260Z Posted December 26, 2007 Share Posted December 26, 2007 Get at least a 18 footer, steel deck, 4 ft dove tail for lower loading angles, make sure it is built with at least 4 inch channel DO NOT GET ONE MADE WITH ANGLE IRON, IT WILL TWIST. Make sure it has a dual c channel frame, the top one just for the metal deck and a bottom one for the main frame, some main frames only go back half way, try to get one that goes all the way to the back or aleast past the axles. Get one with reccessed light so you dont take them out on corners, get reccessed d rings for tie downs, get a bull dog hitch, at least one axle brake. 2 3500lb axles will work with an open trailer since the trailer will only weigh 1500lb. get c channel ramps for less bowing while loading. try and get one that is painted underneith also for rust protection. Get an extra long tongue for room to mount a tool box. JMHO Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted December 26, 2007 Share Posted December 26, 2007 I have a new Morganbuilt tilt bed 17' trailer. I have dual #3500 axles, but the weight of the trailer is only #2400, so that leaves plenty of room for the car and a tire rack if I so desired. Of course, I'm towing with a pickup, so there is plenty of room in the truck bed too. I LOVE LOVE LOVE the tilt bed trailers. Especially if your car is very low, it is way more convenient not having to make or store or use super long ramps to get the car onto the trailer. I also set mine up with a battery on the trailer that charges via the plug to the tow vehicle and an electric winch, so I can just winch the car up onto the trailer if it breaks. I haven't used it much so far, just moving my completely stripped car to my new house and moving my friend's dead GMC Jimmy to his, but it did fine with both projects. That Jimmy was not real lightweight either, but my GMC 1500 pulled it fine and the trailer did it's job well too. I also moved two roll around tool boxes and a chest of drawers with it. Moving the tool boxes was SOOOOOOO easy compared to lifting the box in and out of the back of a pickup. It was amazingly easy. I literally just rolled the boxes to the end of the trailer, hooked the winch cable around a box, pulled it up with the winch, set the wheel brake, did the same on the next box and the chest of drawers, then tied them all down with axle straps. I am really happy with my purchase. One thing I'll warn you against is the length of the trailer. 17' seems short, and it is, but that doesn't count the length of the tongue, nor does it figure on the length of the tow vehicle. You need a good amount of room to turn around with a 17' trailer behind a full size pickup. The shorter the trailer the easier it will be to get in and out of a driveway, etc. EDIT--Here is my "what trailer should I buy" thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120244 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
660Z Posted December 27, 2007 Share Posted December 27, 2007 I keep leaning toward this one. I don`t have alot of room and would like to fit it in the back yard, so a single axle would be better for me. It`s more expensive at $2900 but making one like it wouldn`t be much cheeper considering metal prices. It`s a 6x12 tilt with a 4800lb capacity with 3000lb each spring rating and a 5200lb axle rating. http://centrevilletrailer.com/fullSpecs-modelID-38.cfm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
primadonna z Posted December 27, 2007 Share Posted December 27, 2007 Save yourself a lot of grief, spend the extra dough and buy a Texas Rollback. You'll be glad you did. http://www.texasrollback.net/ No ramps (and/or extensions) to fool with, or loose. The wheels and fenders are out of the way during load/unload so your not banging your doors. There are just so many good reasons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kennysgreen280zt Posted December 27, 2007 Share Posted December 27, 2007 Save yourself a lot of grief, spend the extra dough and buy a Texas Rollback. You'll be glad you did.http://www.texasrollback.net/ No ramps (and/or extensions) to fool with, or loose. The wheels and fenders are out of the way during load/unload so your not banging your doors. There are just so many good reasons. thats pretty neat, I hadnt seen that one before. My dad is currently looking for a featherlite dual axle, but im going to show him that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIM73240Z Posted December 27, 2007 Author Share Posted December 27, 2007 it looks like i will be getting a 20' steel bed with dovetail. i will make longer ramps for it. at 3g its not to bad and no one here has aluminum trailers. everyone says ther is too many warranty problems with them. will look at some more this morning. jimbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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