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Cobra Z gets new rear billet control arms today...pics


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saw them last week in the box. nice. saves about 5# vs stock. instead of poly bushings for the piviot location, the bushings will hold a rod for spherical busings so no more stiction (sp). these are one of about 6 pair that were made for final mods and adjustments. they look sweeeet. more stuff coming from azcar in the billet bling dept.

 

jimbo

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My heart skipped a beat on those arms, but for a different reason than being impressed with the appearance. Pray tell me, what keeps the inner pivot bar from rotating under high lateral loading. With the limited experience I've had with the apparent materials used in this setup, I would be extremely surprised that the tube will not spin if the arms were mounted either directly above or below the tube.

 

My last concern is the outer heim joint spacing. I've built arms using this configuration, and it can be time consuming to set the bearing up for zero side loading when the spindle nuts are tightened down. I built mine by having the heims bolted securely to the strut before welding the threaded tube ends, and that worked fine for that strut, but found the next strut was not machined to the same exact width as the jig strut. Even a few thousands off (the machining tolerance on the OEM struts falls into this easily), and the ball inside the rod ends start binding in their housings, which stiffens the joint, and in time leads to early failure of the heim joint. It takes patience to swap from one strut to another with the use of some very thin shims to make the design work as intended. I see so many arms being designed in this manner (and mine myself) and wonder why this issue is never brought up.

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yes, they are from dave over at arizona z car. he just added them to his site today and i just installed them today as well. love em!!

 

and to answer questions....yes i am close to daves place so i enjoy getting his parts on my cars and customers as well. no shipping or waiting ...lol

 

another answer....the bushings are designed so that as you tighten they lock the inner rod in place. but if there ever were to be a problem with movement he has incorperated a locking set screw . not visible in the pics. i am certain he can explain more in great detail. i love that if by chance there is a side impact that it would alow give as opposed to trashing everything.

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another answer....the bushings are designed so that as you tighten they lock the inner rod in place. but if there ever were to be a problem with movement he has incorperated a locking set screw . not visible in the pics. i am certain he can explain more in great detail. i love that if by chance there is a side impact that it would alow give as opposed to trashing everything.

Better be a big set screw.

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I really really really don't like the idea that a set screw holds this thing in place. The brackets appear to be in BUSHINGS. So let's say you come into a turn pushing 1g, and the outside wheel is going to feel 1000-1400 lbs of side load depending on the Z, which is going to be transferred through the arm to the brackets and into the gold tube, and then a SET SCREW is supposed to keep this whole thing from rotating? Seems like a recipe for disaster to me.

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For those of us running track cars that are very low. This gives me an idea. Several of us have thought about raising the inner pivot point of the rear control arms. Something similar to this would allow that to happen. Rotate the inner tube 90 degrees and the inner pivot point is raised.

 

Of course the control arm would need to be longer to accomadate the camber change and something to prevent rotation of the inner tube.

 

Roddy are you listening?

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thats the beauty of these arems....they are designed to improve geometry on lowered cars byr rotating the tube. also you guys are not seeing it in the pic but when these arms tighten down on the tube it is not moving , he designe dit to lock in place exremelt tight all by its self. the set screww is just over kill if you choose to drill it and lock it in place after you dial it in. i am not running the set screw at all.

and the arm length is perfect for stock length but with 4 heim joints to lengthen on each arm you can increase the overall length that simple if the car is lowered and you want otr need longer arm length to make up for it. i am far from an expert but i talked to davein detail about all these issues and he had thought them all through. nothing is perfect i am sure but i am very pleased with these arms as they are.

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