Jump to content
HybridZ

Mike Kelly's Zcar Project


Recommended Posts

Well I got a late start and ended up quiting early because "grandpa" duties were needed. In the process of doing work on the Zcar, I did manage to get the fuel plumbing buttoned up and I managed to pull the wires all the way out of the pins on the connector for the distributor. I'm going to extend that harness today so it doesn't happen again. Hope to have her running in a bit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So we didn't have success over the weekend. Just not getting the system to fire up yet. I'm sure it's something minor but very frustrating. I moved on to removing the trans to fix the leak and install the LWFW. If I can't sort the fuel injection within the next week or so, I'll ship it off to the pros. Not going to lose another season over this car... Make no bones about it. This car will be running within a few weeks. It will be available to a buyer or sorted and tracked by April.

 

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dave, I just got notice that they've shipped tonight... I'd expect to see them by Monday/Tuesday time frame.

 

So over the last two days I managed to get the trans out, the light weight flywheel swapped, and diagnose the leak. Happy to report it's def. the transmission and not the rear main or oil pan. I'll resolve this issue tomorrow. Making progress!

 

Mike

Edited by Mikelly
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The lightweight flywheel, clutch/pressure plate/bellhousing and transmission are back in place, along with the driveshaft and trans crossmember. I'll wrap up the rest over the next few days.

 

UPS plans to deliver the wheels tomorrow...

 

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The anodized coating is amazingly durable... Love the look and can't wait to mount up my Hoosiers!!! And because I know some will ask.. 10X18 front and 11.5X18 rear...

 

From the rear

3c7c3bb0.jpg

 

From the front

8ffdea1e.jpg

 

Rear Side View

d2c46e31.jpg

 

Front Side View

53a0c506.jpg

 

Other shots

90af34ea.jpg

24431d32.jpg

233e1e8e.jpg

 

White specs on the pics are from the foam packing...

Edited by Mikelly
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pete, It was in the retainer. I went ahead and sealed it up with black magic. I expect to have the car completely back together and at the tuners for troubleshooting, tuning and being DONE by the week of the 27th!

 

Glad to hear the wheels are coming in soon.

 

So what was the leak all about? From the bearing retainer perimeter against the case, or from around the shaft in the retainer?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Was having a look on their website and they seem to have two specifications, Street and Race. Essentially it looks like the race version are more function over form and street vice versa.

I think I would end up ordering street version too, as I couldn't justify the small decrease in weight saving over the extra maintenance.

 

Options - Race, Street

Center Caps - No, Yes

Swiss* - Yes, No

Steel Inserts* - Yes, No

Hardware - Grade 8, ARP

 

* can be swapped between versions

 

Center Caps

Race version wheels are not machined to accept center caps as most tracks will not allow you to run them. The center forgings are then machined to be hub centric. Street version wheels are machined larger to accept our billet center caps that are hubcentric. Center forgings and center caps are vehicle specific as hub sizes vary.

 

Swiss

To remove unneeded weight additional holes are machined in between the lug nut wells and assembly hardware. This process makes cleaning a little more difficult.

 

Inserts

Lug nut seating areas are normally machined into the forged aluminum centers. However, in conditions such as racing where the wheels will be taken on and off many times stainless steel inserts add better life to the seats as well as a great surface to adhere the lug nuts too.

 

Hardware

Race version wheels are machined to accept grade 8 cadium hardware as it's less expensive and does the job fine. Street version wheels are machined to accept ARP stainless steel hardware as it will provide a better finish over time. Wheels utilizing the cadium bolts are machined to accept the nuts on the outside/face of the center where with the ARP bolts the nuts are located on the inside of the center.

Edited by garvice
Link to comment
Share on other sites

oh, that. Yes, after talking with them for months, we decided that the lm20 was worth the extra few bucks for the durability' over the classic race wheel. I will put them on a scale to get exact weights before they are mounted up with tires.

 

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Made progress over the last two days... WElded in a new 02Bung and installed a solid trans mount... I have to reinstall the exhaust and fill the trans with fluid and I'll be ready to get back to the EFI troubleshooting... Gotta order rear tires...

 

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...