TR's 260z L28 Build Thread

[TrumpetRhapsody]

Got the slave line and installed and bled it. Either the Autozone (slave cyl) or O'reily's (hydraulic line) in their infinate wisdom failed to mention that I might need a rubber washer to go between the slave and line to get it not to leak. So right now I'm using a gigantic O-ring. Doubt that'll work well, but we'll see.

 

Now I just have to wait on my throttle linkage, and still figure out how to tune the mixture on the SU's. Then

[Six_Shooter]

I used the hose into the venturi trick to get the carbs more balanced and get a decent idle, and I must say I'm pleased.

 

Interested in more information about this.

[Daeron]

should be a copper crush washer, not a rubber washer, if I am not mistaken

[TrumpetRhapsody]

Interested in more information about this.

You just stick a vaccum line about an inch into the opening and listen to the vaccum, and try to match it in both carbs. It's the cheap way so you dont' have to buy a uni-syn. Not perfect, but good enough for me.

HybridZ google search function FTW!

 

should be a copper crush washer, not a rubber washer, if I am not mistaken

Thanks! Yeah someone on another forum mentioned that too, good to know. I'm so glad O'reily's and Autozone made sure to tell me that .

[TrumpetRhapsody]

Well I didn't do too much on the car today, since I was mostly cleaning up crap off our lawn from the flood (our property is on Sallisaw Creek/River), so I didn't get around to messing with the clutch fitting leak. I'll do it tomorrow.

 

What I did do is tune on the SU's, and it is running much better now. I'd be comfortable driving it around streets once I get all the old gas worked out of the system.

 

I also put it in gear and let the clutch out, and it moved! Based on that I'm guessing I have the right throw out bearing, w00t!

 

Also, the temp gauge moved for the first time today. I sure do hope it's accurate. It was reading maybe 3/8" above 120* (far left/low). It also squirted some steaming fluid out the overflow after running awhile, not surprising since I topped it off while I had the right side jacked up working on the clutch slave line. I need to route up an overflow bottle for it at some point.

 

Now for the bad. I pretty much have close to 0 oil pressure at idle, though it is circulating through the head (saw it squirting looking through the filler cap). I dunno what to think about that. I'll put new (not reused as is now) oil in and see if it helps, but I doubt it.

[TrumpetRhapsody]

Alright well I got my Zirgo electric radiator fan and thermo installed, and it seems to work well.

 

I'm pretty sure I'm going to need a bigger alternator now... the motor doesn't like it when the fan kicks on. Yay.

 

The coolant temp gauge is working now... for some reason.

 

I'm still trying to figure out the whole low/no oil pressure thing. I get some light steamage coming out the head and block vents when the engine gets up to temp. It's weird, and makes me nervous.

[dhartig]

The oil pressure sensors in L engines are notorious for low readings. Mine shows OK only about 1 in 4 times that I drive it. Other times it hardly moves.

 

Check the connections or look for a replacement sensor.

[TrumpetRhapsody]

Thanks for the heads up, I'll try another sender and mess with the wiring.

 

Any ideas on the smokeishness coming out the head and block vents? Big deal, no big deal?

[Six_Shooter]

You just stick a vaccum line about an inch into the opening and listen to the vaccum, and try to match it in both carbs. It's the cheap way so you dont' have to buy a uni-syn. Not perfect, but good enough for me.

HybridZ google search function FTW!

 

I thought maybe it was some way to replace using a manometer, thanks anyway.

[Gollum]

Progress is looking good!

 

Which alternator are you running? I believe the one out of the 280ZX NA was 60 amps, and the turbo was 70 amps. The NA 280ZX motors are everywhere around here if you need a replacement. I could have one on it's way in less than a week if you wanted.

[TrumpetRhapsody]

Thanks! I'm pretty sure I'm running a 240z alternator. I wired the fan directly to the battery positive, and it seems to like that much better. I don't notice any change in idle when it kicks on, and the amp meter reads slightly above normal. Thanks for the offer, but I think I'll leave it be till I can do the internally regulated GM alternator swap.

 

Well things are looking up. I'm getting the SU's tuned a little better each time I play with them, and I changed the oil. I read somewhere to pour some B12 chemtool in the valve cover oil fill and run the engine till warm for awhile right before changing the oil to smooth things over and clean things out. So I did that, and put in some new Castrol 20w-50 (awesome sale right now!). The oil pressure seems a little better, probably 10psi (1/8in on the gauge) at idle. I think I overfilled it a little though, so hopefully there isn't a close tolerance between the H on the dipstick and the crank.

 

I didn't notice any smoke puffing out the vents this time, but I didn't run it as long. We'll see.

 

Hopefully my throttle linkage will get here tomorrow so I can try driving it around!

[TrumpetRhapsody]

Alrighty so Dan came back up Saturday, so we played around some more.

 

I got the copper washer on the clutch slave line, and it seems to not be leaking anymore so woohoo problem solved.

 

We also took off both front tires, and reworked the front brakes. They're pretty old and crusty, but I lubed them up and sanded the rotors. Everything turns pretty well up there and the grease in the bearings looks perfectly clean, so I'm thinking they must have been worked over pretty recently. I just need the brakes to last long enough till I upgrade them, so hopefully they can deliver.

 

So, next time I go out I'll have my throttle linkage to drive it around some, at which point I need to do a checkup of the back breaks, then start working on the body. Things to do off the top of my head:

 

Fix the small coolant leak around the thermocouple

Permanently pad and mount the radiator

Check and refresh the back brakes

Adjust the valves and replace the gasket

Start working on the body rust

Start gathering supplies to get the car in primer

... Get the car in primer so I can bring it up to school!

[TrumpetRhapsody]

Alrighty so I talked to the guy that I was going to get the R200 CLSD from, and it turns out it isn't one. That's $400 in my budget that I can now allocate elsewhere. So...

 

I went to autozone and ordered up a valve cover gasket (so I can tune my valvetrain), a pair of re-manufactured stock front brake calipers, and new front brake soft lines. All for a grand total of $84, ouch. Though I suppose it is good to have at least one good set of brakes on a car that you plan to drive frequently. Back brakes, eh who needs em.

[TrumpetRhapsody]

This post is mainly for my benefit, to find this info again quick:

 

Stock Lighting System

 

First, a little information regarding the dash light system. The dash lights in a 240z (you will need to verify the lighting circuit for other models) get their power from the green with white wire coming out from the combo switch. This wire controls the side marker lights and parking lights. The lights are on a circuit that is fed power via a red with blue (R/L) stripe wire. The R/L wire connects to the G/W wire somewhere behind the dash by the speedometer or tachometer. I could not see the connection as the harness is still wrapped in tape. The R/L wire then connects to the dimmer switch (potentiometer) with a female spade connector (that is, the connector on the end of the wire is a female spade). Power is then distributed to the lights from the dimmer switch (the dimmer switch here is connected to the R/L with a male spade)

My dash lights, side markers, and parking lamps don't work. Hopefully with this info i'll be able to track down the problem this weekend.

[TrumpetRhapsody]

Well I thought it would be a bright idea to go ahead and get tags and registration for the car if I was going to have a brief stint of driving on public roads this weekend. Shows what I know...

 

Gotta have insurance to get tags, gotta have it assessed to get tags. So I went to the county courthouse and got it assessed, and apparently it's only worth $235 to them and didn't have any taxes due, lol. I'm still trying to get ahold of my insurance agent to get the car added on our policy.

[TrumpetRhapsody]

Alriiiight got tags and insurance lined up, so I'm good to go on public roads!

Can't wait to take it out this weekend. I wonder if I should put the fenders back on, or leave them off... heh.

 

This means I need to hurry up and get the car on the streets, else I'm wasting insurance money. I'll consider it a kick in the pants to get the body work and paint taken care of.

[MJLamberson]

film the first drive for us?

[TrumpetRhapsody]

Will do.

 

Bad, terrible, frustrating news. Apparently the $*(@#$%* still hasn't mailed my throttle linkage. Just called him to find out when he shipped it, and he said he forgot and still hasn't yet. Looks like I likely won't be driving it this weekend either.

[k14]

TR wrote:

got most of the rust stripped off the headers using the calcium carbonate electrolyte bath method.

 

What's that? How do you do it?

[TrumpetRhapsody]

Mix up calcium carbonate (washing soda) in a bunch of water (saturate it).

Put a metal bar (steel or iron IIRC) in the bath with your part (not touching).

Get a car battery charger, hook the neg to the part, and pos to the bar.

Set to 4amp (there-abouts), and let it sit as close to 48 hours as you can.

 

It'll be black all over when done. Be sure to wash it off and paint the part (or coat with oil) VERY soon (couple hours) so it doesn't re-rust (it will, quickly).