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budget lowering questions (dumped)


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another 1.5" and you'll tuck the tires... this isn't a civic you know...
so unless your going to be helpful like the majority of people, then go elsewhere.

We have a very low tolerance for flaming people here. Both of you should stop now while you're ahead.

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Both of you should stop now while you're ahead.

 

Or not too far behind anyway. :wink:

 

Listen to the man,i have learned (well...pretty much) that there is nothing more frightening on this board than to open up your user cp only to find a PM from an admin you didnt initiate contact with.

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I think you will find that tucking tires will lead to major rubbing. There is not all that much room up there!

That's a good point. The fenderwell is not flat all the way across, it is an arch shape and heads down on the outside to meet up with the stock fender lip. If you have wheels that fill up the fenderwells and have them that close to being tucked, you'll probably be hitting them when the suspension compresses.

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That's a good point. The fenderwell is not flat all the way across, it is an arch shape and heads down on the outside to meet up with the stock fender lip. If you have wheels that fill up the fenderwells and have them that close to being tucked, you'll probably be hitting them when the suspension compresses.

 

So if one sections the struts, it is possible with a tire narrow enough to clear the fender lips, the tire could bottom inside the fenderwells/uinbody structure before hitting the strut bump stops???

In essence typical 1 to 1.8 inch sectioning in most cases requires fender flares to obtain some more gained travel from sectioning?

I kind of thought that was a possible situation on my ride when lowering 1.25 inches. When I checked the full suspension travel there was not much room left in my opinion so I did not section. To me it seemed pointless. Not to mention having the tires kill the front fender lips at full turn/full bottoming. A common very possible curb situation of street driving.

All 17X7 4.5 BS, 225/45/17, Non sectioned, coilovers, early Z, DP biscut plates, no flares.

 

Many factors....

Forget everything I said, I am just thinking out loud, Sorry to hi-jack the thread. Back to your local broadcast station...

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I will say right now that I have not read thrue this thread, but based on the title I will through in my 2cents... Its all about finding the right parts for the right cost, and if that means used so be it ... I bought 4 lowering springs that are much stiffer then stock for 60 shipped... And I found a Z at the pnp with KYB struts. Be careful when changing suspension though... I started mine and now my Z is down for the next 4 days (things go wrong). So In about a week I will have what your title asked about... So in a nutshell, theres nothing cheaper then used...

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Just take the springs out. Nothing ghetto about that ;) No rubbing with stock wheels and tires....

 

l_2a12ea02f310cb968214c16faa6fc5f0.jpg

 

 

(note, I was just pushing the car in and out of the shop like that)

 

Is the car in the picture yours? Did you By chance happen to get it in Ferndale?

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Sick auxilary, thats pretty much the height I would want. what kind of coilovers?

 

Mj, I'm looking foreward to it, good luck man!

 

in that picture, those are stock strut housings with eibach 200lb/in springs, and ground control coilovers. suspension's been changed since that picture though.

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Alex is using more sidewall than you would use on a 17 in all likelihood. My experience in watching the large diameter wheel guys has been that since their sidewalls are smaller the gap between the tire and fender looks larger, and they won't be happy with the same ride height, given the smaller sidewall. Also, the car will be higher with your 17's because the diameter will be larger, so that will also prompt you to want to lower the car further on its suspension, even though the actual height of the rocker to the ground might be the same or even higher.

 

Here is a case in point. This is a post of mine from the last "budget suspension lowering" thread from only about a week ago:

When you run a larger tire it lifts the car up. The general tendency is for people not to want a big gap between the fender and the tire, so then they lower the car down FURTHER than it would be otherwise. This exacerbates the problem.

 

Here's an example. Look at the rear control arms:

 

Jay Hitchcocks Z with 18's

 

See the control arm angles up from the inside to the outside?

http://forums.hybridz.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=3838&d=1191604376

 

See how much ground clearance there is between the rocker and the ground?

http://svsrnd.com/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=Jay-Hitchcock-71-V-8-Datsun&id=71_Datsun_at_shop_013

 

And for comparison, BRAAP's old autox car with 13" rims:

 

Way lower than Jay's car

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b81/BRAAPZ/Pearl/P2Medium.jpg

 

And yet the control arms still point down, not up:

http://s17.photobucket.com/albums/b81/BRAAPZ/Pearl/?action=view&current=fattyLarge.jpg

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Yup. The larger wheels will raise the car, and depending on tire width, rubbing will become and issue.

 

My 17's didn't rub at all on the fenders, though they did when I put 350 ft/lbs to the wheels! I had to raise/ and stiffen my suspension to keep my wheels from rubbing under hard acceleration.

 

My car was much lower once...with the same suspension and smaller 16" wheels.

 

BTW you can't get much lower in the front (see my sig pic) any more than that, and I'd rub my 17's under hard cornering I have less than1/4" clearance (can't get my finger between the tire and body with the wheels turned at a certain angle.

 

Nice 15x7's with 225/50/15's and lowering springs/shocks make the car pretty low, without major handling sacrafices.

 

Scott.

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Ok I will search more about strut sectioning, but some of you guys are getting this all wrong. I'm asking about doing it right, safe, and relatively inexpensive. I won't cut springs, I do understand bump steer/ roll center concepts. (I don't want high spring rates, I was just stating that stiff a stiff ride is not a big deal to me) Also janaka what does tucking tires have to do with civics? People with all types of cars like the look of tucked tires, and I am no honda fan. this is a dd, that i want to be safe, and aesthetically pleasing . so unless your going to be helpful like the majority of people, then go elsewhere. Thanks I'll search more!

 

"Right and relativley inexpensive" is your problem. Speed/looks cost $$. how fast / cool looking do you want to be.

 

IMHO I think you should look for a set of old Suspension Techniques springs and maybe some Energy Suspension bushings. It will wear the inside of the tires unless you just drive at autocross events. That is what I did when I was in your shoes. Hint..... Pell grant.

 

What folks are trying to tell you based on oh..... 40 years worth of screwing with these cars and their various issues is that you are wanting cake for cracker budget. Either leave it alone and save $$ until you have enough. Or get more $$.

 

Alan

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Thanks for your 2 cents man, you should post some pics of your ride height when your all done, I want to see how low sits!

 

here you go, note: I have only done the front at this point, ignore the rear hight, all on used parts, all 4 springs and struts for under 100 bucks. I am very pleased and the stance is a big upgrade IMO, also stiffer which is good. once I do the rear it will be just right, Im just to lazy

IMG_0430.jpg

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