pparaska Posted July 26, 2001 Share Posted July 26, 2001 O.K., I've probably had the most varied experience here on this, except maybe James Thagard or Scottie. I had 240 stubs and 280ZX Turbo companion flanges on with the CVs. The only bit of bind I got was actually related to the severe angle one or both of the CVs had to deal with on the left side at full suspension droop (last 1/2" of droop travel only). Still, I was uncomfortable with this, as if I ever went over a rise enough to fully unload the rear suspension, the binding would have occurred. Also, this was probably exaggerated by me raising the rear of the diff about 1/2". Now I have Jim's 2 pc adapter for the regular 240-280Z companion flange. This part or Scotties is needed if the 280Z stubs are used, as the 280ZX Turbo companion flange only fits the 280ZX and 240Z stubs. I have no binding issues with this setup, but there is very little margin from what I can tell. Anyway, I believe the 240 and 280 stubs are the same lengths. The 240 stub has been known to fail in racing (ask a few racers), and I think it was at the friction weld between the flange and the axle. Scottie, is there a reason for the depth of you adapter? It seems that the thread engagement could be less on the 6 bolts, although I don't always feel comfortable with the threaded portion of bolts being put in shear. But heck, you've proven the design is pretty damned tough! I was just wondering if your part could be made even 1/4" shorter to give some margin for the CV shaft length. It seems some cars have binding with CV shaft installs and others don't (ask Greg Kring, he had this problem). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted July 26, 2001 Author Share Posted July 26, 2001 Scottie and Pete, thanks for answering some lingering unanswered q's from up above to clear this fog I have Sounds like Scottie has it solved in general but if it's possible to make his piece thinner at all (I'd guess it is) that'd be very welcome by all for better piece of mind if their rear is twisted up a bit or slighty different in another way. If the adaptor became thin enough such that the shoulder of the OEM CV stub bolts protruded an extra washer or two (or custom washer if needed/cheap to make) to stack under the bolt head or nut and lockwasher would solve that and allow a hair more CV shaft travel. If nothing else restricts it from being made thinner a stronger steel could be used to ensure adequate strength. As for pleasing the bolt on desires: I think Mike's suggestion of doing a 'run' of X amount of stub flanges all welded by one shop would solve that as best it can be done reasonably. Customer receives two custom flange setups he can 'bolt on' after removing his stock ones. If he returns the stock ones to whomever he can receive a nominal credit/refund depending on what cores would cost. Mike and I talked tonight and between us we could come up with at least 10 sets if it was agreed that this solution was in everyone's best interest, just an offer. Him and I are going to be coordinating a fair bit with the machine shop anyhow for the rear brackets about to turn out a prototype...so handling $/machining/packaging/shipping won't be a hassle as we've both been doing it for a while. [ July 26, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted July 26, 2001 Share Posted July 26, 2001 Let me shed a little light here as well... I have Scottie's units and they are a work of art. I'm happy with them and they are very stout pieces. The only reason I wanted to get Ross' unit is also for the same reason someone else had concern over... Fitment on my rear control arms. My rear design should no help create more bind, unless for some reason you wanted to dial in a bunch of positive camber, and that typically isn't the norm. Most folks want more negative camber, pushing the stub axle further away from the half shaft, and therfore pulling the shaft out, not compressing it in. The matterials I will use to construct the arms will not be of a larger diameter than the existing factory sized control arms.... Again, Scottie's units are fine, and I just want the bolt on units as a test fit for clearance issues... I have the adapters for the 240 & 280ZX units already and they clear the control arm design, but I would still like to have the other design as well for peace of mind in the developement process for the product line. Mike Kelly ZF Racing LLC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted July 26, 2001 Share Posted July 26, 2001 Count me in for two pairs when its figured out. One for each of my V-8 Z's. Am I correct in assuming that the shafts do not need to be shortened? I also have converted ZX disc brakes. Will these pose a clearance problem? Assuming that I will need the shafts and the CV joint assembly, couldn't the entire piece be fabricated and purchased as a finished unit? What are the specific clearance issues? Is there anyway to evaluate these without actually bolting the units in place. I'm just thinking to eliminate a lot of shipping back and forth. Evan [ July 26, 2001: Message edited by: Evan ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted July 27, 2001 Author Share Posted July 27, 2001 ["Am I correct in assuming that the shafts do not need to be shortened? I also have converted ZX disc brakes. Will these pose a clearance problem?" CV shafts are left untouched in their entirety as an OEM unit. For clearance it may be tight if it does clear. For a fairly good check you could measure up a CV flange and compare it to your UJ shaft flange/clearance and get a good idea of how close it might be. Our 'new' rear disk brake brackets will clear CV's. You could be quite certain you could get fair dollar selling your current 10" rear brakes when the time comes if you want to swap to our 11-3/8's setup. The extra 11/16's radial distance adds up to a LOT of extra clearance. ebrake geometry is better longterm as well. I plan to measure up some various flanges and 'protrusions/lips' this wknd. [ July 27, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 [ July 30, 2001: Message edited by: Evan ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 I opened another topic to get thoughts on the CV clearance issue with ZX brakes and other would be interferences. Evan F. [ July 30, 2001: Message edited by: Evan ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
383 240z Posted July 31, 2001 Share Posted July 31, 2001 You can coun't me in for a set of hubs. as I understand it I will need a set of 2800 rear hubs This I have is there anything else that I will need? I'll be mating this to my 82 vette IRS should be a good project. do we have enough sets ordered? also were do I send my money order(can't send check wife will find out!!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted July 31, 2001 Share Posted July 31, 2001 Hey 383 240Z, quoteI'll be mating this to my 82 vette IRS should be a good project Not sure I understood what you are saying there. Do you already have a Vette IRS in your Z? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted July 31, 2001 Share Posted July 31, 2001 Count me in for a set as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted July 31, 2001 Share Posted July 31, 2001 I am a bit confused about the differences. BUT I dont care. If it works I want it. How do I send payment and to whom do I send it. I want the whole deal with the CV axels too. How much money do you need? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted July 31, 2001 Author Share Posted July 31, 2001 Sorry guys, I just got in and only have a minute....been a busy but fun night.....test fitting wheels on the 13" brembo setup for a 240Z Then I had to demo my own and he's still wearing that grin anyhow.....follow the payment/production info at this NEW thread started by Scottie please http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=7&t=000422 please email me with parts/needs you want in addition to the actual adaptor pair so I can plan ahead. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
383 240z Posted August 1, 2001 Share Posted August 1, 2001 Hey scottie A friend of mine has a 79 vette irs in his 73 it is the same as our 82 irs but made of steel. What he did was section(shorten) the ears on the center section cut a piece of c channel with the open side face down. cross bolt it to the vette section then bolt it vertically to the stock mustach bar mounts. I'm going to weld the c channel between the frame rails in the rear I'm not sure about suporting the nose of the unit but a simple plate from 3/8 boiler plate should be very stout.Your project of fitting the entire rear assy is a bit more than I was willing to tackel I will try to get some photos of his install as soon as possable my be this weekend could I snail mail them to you to be posted I still have not learned to do this yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z_Master Posted February 17, 2007 Share Posted February 17, 2007 (R180 CV Swap) Hey guys... I did this through a junkyard. I bought 1st gen maxima CV's and axle stubs. I replaced the standard stub (on the wheel side) where the half shafts were and bolted on the 1st gen maxima stubs. Then from an R200, I took two CV's (the ones that were short, I think it's the Driver's side CV, can't remember) and took out the center shaft of the shorter R200 axles and dropped them into the maxima cv axle. Then bam! I got R180 cv's with 4.11. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quicker240 Posted February 17, 2007 Share Posted February 17, 2007 So the Maxima CV stub will direct swap with a u-joint stub?..Got a pic maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mike Posted February 17, 2007 Share Posted February 17, 2007 Hey guys... this thread pooped out in 2001:mrgreen: But I'm still interested in your progress. MORE PICS?? RESULTS?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z_Master Posted February 17, 2007 Share Posted February 17, 2007 So the Maxima CV stub will direct swap with a u-joint stub?..Got a pic maybe? Send me an email and I'll find the pixes... too lazy to resize and all that. quoc@livesockets.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icewtr Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 Ok i am now lost on this thread..lol i just want something that won't break everytime i stomp the gas.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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