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HybridZ

Fixing the wrecked zed


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Alright im planning on taking tons of pictures while doing all my work and ill do my best to keep it up to date. Here is the link to my photobucket account folder with the pics in it http://s77.photobucket.com/albums/j69/jeffer949/rebuild%20and%20paint%20from%20wreck/

 

Well here is day one

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Well thats day one i fixed the bent headlight bucket things that they mount to. They where pretty banged up and had to hammer and dolly it straight. But other than that it was just a tear down day.

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K did a little more work. Undercoated the upper frame thats under the fenders. and touched up some engine pay paint. Also took out all the glass front and rear and a side. well not the door glass. and basically got her ready to strip all the paint off of her. She has 3 layers of paint on her so its gonna take alot of sanding!! hopefully i dont find any big surprises. Well on with the pics.

 

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Well thats where im at now. Im going to pick up a set of fenders tomorrow. and a hood and i think my headlight buckets got shipped today. Ill keep ya updated

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Another up date sorry its been a couple days. lets just say ive been doing alot of stripping!!

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I found a few patches but the look pretty good to me so il leave it alone. But ill probably finish stripping the other half tomorrow or the next day.

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So what are you using to sand with? I'd heard you could really muff up your paint if you get the sanding wrong.

 

What did you use to undercoat beneath the fenders? Are you going to check your floorpans and rear wheelwells too, I mean redo the undercoat on them also?

 

Looked like your left door and wheel well might have had some damage, or is that just the dust playing tricks?

 

Are you going to do your own painting?

 

Phar

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Im using my trusty 4.5 inch angle grinder with these scotch brite type pads they sell at Lowes. strips the paint nicely but doesnt dig into the metal at all. And yes i have damage on my door and rear fender lip. I wrecked the car about a week ago. I doubt i will redo the under coating in the rear and floor pans. I dont have that much time.

 

Im going to def. do my own body work. and depending on how much money i have left will depend on if i paint it myself or not.

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Im using my trusty 4.5 inch angle grinder with these scotch brite type pads they sell at Lowes. strips the paint nicely but doesnt dig into the metal at all. And yes i have damage on my door and rear fender lip. I wrecked the car about a week ago. I doubt i will redo the under coating in the rear and floor pans. I dont have that much time.

 

Im going to def. do my own body work. and depending on how much money i have left will depend on if i paint it myself or not.

 

 

Yeah, I was thinking of sanding mine w/ my angle grinder, though like I said I'd be afraid of marring the metal. though I've used those scotchbright disks before, n they work well.

 

I guess you could go over it w/ a good primer. The body shop I talked to this morning was saying you should use a green acid base primer to ensure no rust developes. If you're painting it, you should probably consult a shop in your area for your climate, or for instructions prior to them painting... I dunno. It's looking good, hopefully mine will turn out so well :wink:

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Im pretty sure they are welded in. It it a much better job than i could do. I would probably make it worse.

 

Well i got the rest of the car stripped this afternoon. I also got my DTM primer today so that will be going on this weekend.

 

I also settled on a color. THe Brickyard was just a tad bright for me and its really expensive paint. I saw this color today and i asked the paint shop about it and is 40 bucks cheaper per quart than the brickyard. Its called blackberry crush metallic. Its from a 2008 scion XB It is similar to the brickyard but it only has red pearl in it instead of red and white pearl. well here is a pic

 

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well got the fenders and headlight buckets stripped today. I was going to spray on the primer but realized i didnt have the correct respirator. So hopefully i can find one tomorrow cause i know my normal paint shop is closed. otherwise im gonna have nothing to do all weekend.

 

So who says i should just clear it?

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Is this the normal hole pattern for the hood emblem?

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i wouldnt worry to much about the surface just use high build primer filler a couple of coats sanding in between and itll look like glass did mine on the drive and it looked fine once sanded a good item to use is the wire cups for the 4.5" angle grinder not to course and it takes the paint off and also polishes the metal saves a lot of time in preparation

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i wouldnt worry to much about the surface just use high build primer filler a couple of coats sanding in between and itll look like glass did mine on the drive and it looked fine once sanded a good item to use is the wire cups for the 4.5" angle grinder not to course and it takes the paint off and also polishes the metal saves a lot of time in preparation

 

 

so you like the wire cups better for removing paint? I've used those before to remove rust off metal before welding, and of course to remove the crud after welding. Maybe I'll try it on the paint. I was worried about the nut that hold on the disc scarring the metal with the scotch pads.

I don't think the wire would scar the metal. Maybe I'll try both to get a feel for what would work best for me. There's at least 2 maybe 3 coats of paint on my Z.

 

On Primer: It's definitely good to wear the right kind of resperator. What kind of Paint gun will you be spraying with? Is that DTM primer good for bare metal application, and what of rust prevention? I'm not familiar, though it sounds like you have a good dialogue w/ a paint shop going.

 

Hood holes and welding: I think the older 260/240 emblems had a different hole pattern than the horizontal 280Z pattern.

As for the welding on the door repairs, if you didn't have trouble before, than just refill it and let it be. it's not worth the risk of heat warpage. T

 

Though if you were going to repair your door damage yourself, were you going to spot weld in more sheet metal for that too? Since you'd have the welder out.

 

Phar

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Dtm is direct to metal primer. The stuff im using is a DTM/highbuild/non sanding sealer depending on how you thin it out and such. As far as a resporator thats why im not spraying this weekend my paint shop was closed so i couldnt get the correct type of resporator. I dont think the ones they sell at lowes is good enough. For the primmer im just using a cheap harbor freight gravity fed gun. Ive used them before with pretty good results and tis just primmer and is going to get sanded down.

The damage on the door is very minimal. I actually was able to just hammer and dolly it out. Its the rear quarter that is going to take the most work but since im going to be zging the car it actually saves me alot of work

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like you say the trouble with scotch pads is the nut and also if you use to smooth a disc it doesnt last long but to course a disc it marks the steel of the car i did my whole car using wire cups but use a soft one not the really hard ones and i had several layers to take of no problem at all what paint are you using 2 pack, celulose, or other type. i did mine in 2 pack good results but very bad for you if you breath it for long

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Any chance you could post a picture of the attachment/disc/wire brush thing you used to strip off the paint? I've tried a couple of products, and haven't had much luck so far.

 

Also, does it work well for bondo, or is it strictly a paint remover kinda deal?

 

PS - Lookin' good so far!

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