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injector problems


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i was driving the z the other day, and then all of a sudden the car dies while i was driving. I pulled off to the side of the road thinking my battery cable came loose again.....but it didn't. So I went back into the car car to try and start it but it wouldn't start. So my next thought is it has vapor lock again. so i go to the gas station and put a bag of ice on the fuel rail waited 20 minutes. tried to start the car again, but it still wouldn't start. At this point I am at a loss of what this problem could be. I know for a fact that the 6 injectors are not firing at all these are brand new injectors with less than 2000 miles. I pulled the cover off of the efi relay to see if it was still clicking, and it is, so it is either the computer, or the ballast resistor.

 

 

I can not get a new resistor for the injectors anywhere the dealer doesn't even have one. Is there a better upgrade from these ballast resistor? or do i have to hope to find one some where?

 

 

everyones help is greatly appreciated.

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Are you sure they're not getting power? Remember, the injectors get a constant hot from a fusible link and a switched ground from the ECU. Make sure you check everything out before replacing parts at will. If need be (although doubtful) I have a dropping resistor pack from an 80ZX that's good.

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i don't know if this should be good or not....after i took the efi relay cover off I turned the key in the on position, and the relay heats up a bit, and kinda burned my finger a little...is this normal or not? I know relays get hot but i'm really at a loss right now. but if it really isn't the dropping resistors, i think it would be good to have an extra one just in case it finally goes out on me. I am really learning everyday about this car it is the start of many z's that I plan on owning.

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ok I have the voltage readings from the injector connectrors. each connector read the same thing .22 to .32 volts so I am starting to think it was the efi relay instead of the resistor or the ecu....because i think it would be highly unusual for the ecu, or the droping resistor to make the injectors all at once. the only thing that would do that would be the efi relay........does anyone agree?

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i don't know if this should be good or not....after i took the efi relay cover off I turned the key in the on position, and the relay heats up a bit, and kinda burned my finger a little...is this normal or not? I know relays get hot but i'm really at a loss right now. but if it really isn't the dropping resistors, i think it would be good to have an extra one just in case it finally goes out on me. I am really learning everyday about this car it is the start of many z's that I plan on owning.

"DANGER WILL ROBINSON, DANGER!" Sounds to me like you found your problem. The big relays like that shouldn't heat up much, if any at all. Swap that bad boy out and I bet you have your car back on the road.

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Do you have 12v on the fuel pump side of the dropping resistor.

Does the fuel pump turn on when you turn on the key? I see in the wire diagram that the dropping resistor is part of the fuel pump circuit. If the fuel pump is not turning on then the injectors will not get 12 volts on the dropping resistor side. If the fuel pump relay is not working that could cause this problem. If you have an oil pressure switch problem, It will not allow the fuel pump relay to turn on and that could be another source to the problem. You should be getting 12v on at least one side of the injector. Did you say that you had no power on both wires to each injector or just to the ECU side of the injector?

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i tested the connector that connects directly to the injector. My fuel pump has never worked either. I can jump the fuel pump across the efi connector, and it will come on. So I just hard wired the fuel pump with a switch to the battery.

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That means that you are no longer providing power from the fuel pump circuit to the injectors on the dropping resistor side. Try connecting power to the dropping resistor. Not sure what color the wire is because I sold my L28 and I don't have the FSM in front of me right now. If you have two dropping resistors they both need to have 12v applied to them. You can wire directly to the battery.

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  • 2 years later...

strangly after fixing my red fusable link, the car started shaking a tiny bit then just died the same way you described like yours. I boght the new 6 prong fuel injection relay and still the car fuel injectors wont fire. only the cold start fires up. I have spark, and my fuel pump works and i have fuel pressure

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I had similar problems and had to replace an oil switch and faulty fuel pump.

 

1. Check oil (fluid) level/ensure you've got sufficient oil pressure--if not, you may need a new sending unit (fairly cheap).

2. These next steps are easier if you install a fuel pressure gauge in-line between the fuel filter and fuel rail:

A. Unplug the single wire (~14 ga) to the starter, turn key to 'start' position and listen for fuel pump to come on; check gauge for fuel pressure (~32-36 psi)

B. Connect starter circuit (plug the wire back in) and try to start the car; should see (same) fuel pressure on gauge

C. If engine starts but runs rough and or dies, try cleaning the AFM (especially air temp sensor) and electrical connection(s), i.e., AFM connector and all injector connectors--may even want to unplug/reconnect ECU connector. (New injectors--old/dirty AFM?)

3. Still having problems? Try cleaning the fuse-link terminals (when I did this, one broke off in my hand due to corrosion and had to replace a link), check continuity across them w /Ohm meter.

 

These are a few simple things I did to resolve my issues. Although my stock fuel pump was working (by sound, fuel pressure), a lot of my gremlins disappeared when I installed an aftermarket Mallory racing pump. :wink:

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