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Project VQ is Underway!


EMWHYR0HEN

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I never put the motor in the car with the A/C but im going to say that i HIGHLY doubt its possible. I think the pulley would be pretty much sitting where the steering rack spline is. I also am goign to have to say that if you cant fab and weld this probably isn't the swap for you... might want to go LS1 or similar or even consider the L28.

 

Any more updates Myron...vid's and whatnot?

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Nothing interesting happening over here. I just swapped out my 4.11 rear end for a 3.54.

 

Now i'm just trying to concentrate on how to get the car to stick and brake better. It's much better with the 3.54 though. It's not as much fun but it is more tame and I can actually use my 1st gear now. Still having traction problems so a wider stickier tire and suspension changes are in store.

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When you stiffen the front end as much as your triangulated tower brace probably does, you often have to remove the rear bar, or soften it significantly. One of our race Z's out here has a triangulated brace plus downbraces to the front rails. He runs a little 5/8" rear bar with heavy springs on the end links where the spacer sleeves normally go. That effectively reduces the bar rate even more, and it is adjustable by how tight you screw down the end link nuts.

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  • 1 month later...

Update:

 

So far the new engine / drivetrain has been running flawlessly even after the resent track event I attended at WSIR. After being out on a high speed track mostly dominated by high HP cars I'm glad to report back that the car holds it's own even in the long straights. The balance is very noticable. When the car is pushed to it's gripping limits it tends to slide evenly and smooth rather than the car rotating or pushing. Even on some off camber downhill sections the car held firm without trailbraking.

 

I'm very pleased with the results. Not once did I have to pop the hood, it helped the overall balance of the car, I couldn't have asked for more power (for now), and I drove the car to and from the event without a problem.

 

Hopefully next time i'll be able to get someone to get some good pics and vids.

 

Just a side note: I got rid of my 4.11 welded diff and slapped my open 3.54 rear end back in. The lack of traction sucks at low speeds. So far I've softened the rear by removing my sway bar and decreasing my rear rebound dampening. I'm really leaning towards a 1-way diff so tuning my suspension/chassis with an open might pay off.

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Great to here that it performed well on the track. Not a big surprise that it ran flawlessly (Nissan engineering).

 

3.54s in an NA is really going to hurt your lap times. I'd be looking for a 3.9 or 4.11. The cheap OBX LSDs actually work reasonably well for the money. I've got one in my turbo car.

 

Pete

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3.54s in an NA is really going to hurt your lap times. I'd be looking for a 3.9 or 4.11.

 

 

I think He was recently running a 4.11 and said he was having major traction problems as I could imagine. A 350z has a 3.54, and if it can move as quick as it does bone stock, then I can only imagine what it would be like in an S30 that's about 1000lbs lighter with a 3.9 or 4.11? Imo 3.9, or 4.11 isn't needed unless he plans on towing a boat.:D The gearing from the transmission is already pretty aggressive and running a 3.54 or lower would most likely utilize the engines full potential, as I would assume emwhyrohen ran through those gears too quickly with the 4.11....but what Im trying to say is, isn't rotational output important?

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Pete- I'm still trying to absorb all the info I can about the OBX diffs and weighing out my options but for the price it seems dahm good. As touge240Z already mentioned I was already having really bad traction problems with the 4.11 welded diff and I was topping out too quick. I think the 3.54 is a good match for me right now. I couldnt imagine gearing really high again as I was topping out my 5th gear and half way through 6th at WSIR's front straight!

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Lets not forget that 3.545 was also stock rear end ratio for the 280Z originally, I am not 100% certain how broad the application is but I know my 75 has one. I realize that the engine and transmission are TOTALLY different from stock S30 (duh) but still, my point is that a 3.545 isn't some crazy tall diff ratio for a Z-car.

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Pete- I'm still trying to absorb all the info I can about the OBX diffs and weighing out my options but for the price it seems dahm good. As touge240Z already mentioned I was already having really bad traction problems with the 4.11 welded diff and I was topping out too quick. I think the 3.54 is a good match for me right now. I couldnt imagine gearing really high again as I was topping out my 5th gear and half way through 6th at WSIR's front straight!

 

The VQ has a nice flat torque curve, so the 3:54 might be good. All I know is my NA L28 track car would be a total dog with a 3.54 in it. I'm sure it has to do with the 81ZX vs 350Z trans ratios too. I'm running a R200 3.9 CLSD in there now, and have run a R190 4.44 LSD in it (until the pinion seal let go). If I can get the parts for the R190 I'm going to give that ratio another shot. Of course your VQ has at 50ft-lbs and 50 more hp than the L28 in my track car. That helps for sure.

 

Pete

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Pete- I'm still trying to absorb all the info I can about the OBX diffs and weighing out my options but for the price it seems dahm good. As touge240Z already mentioned I was already having really bad traction problems with the 4.11 welded diff and I was topping out too quick. I think the 3.54 is a good match for me right now. I couldnt imagine gearing really high again as I was topping out my 5th gear and half way through 6th at WSIR's front straight!

 

What was the top speed you've hit in it so far?

 

Phar

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