EMWHYR0HEN Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 How do you plan on removing the strut with a press fit? What do you have against the 0032's and the threaded gland nut anyway? You know the male and female nut come with the 0032's... From what I've been reading it seems that You're trying to stay away from welding. I'm going to have to agree with Jon and say it would be better to use the gland nut to hold the strut down and hold it in place. It may seem easier to do now, but in the long run your probably going to end up with failures, and problems servicing the struts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 What do you have against the 0032's [snipped]? The 36mm Bilsteins have a digressive piston and are better in every respect. The problem is they don't fit in the 240 strut housing, and it will take some figuring to get them into a 280 housing. Using the 36mm pistons is worth doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 I wonder if this will work without further mods for those of us who have welded the female carrier onto the housing to fit the P30 damper? It would seem to be the case given this And the fact that the female carrier whose PN is lost somwhere in the preceeding 18 pages I think is M52x1.5 as well? Obviously a little more reaming out the inside of the carrier like this would be required: http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/step14-file-out-carrier.jpg http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/step14-damper-through-carrier.jpg Thoughts? Dave I checked with Bilstein today. The gland nuts that come with the P30-0032-M0 insert are M50X1.5. To use a 36mm insert with this female nut, you would need these male gland nuts w/ a M50X1.5p thread: E4-B36-816-D1. I've seen mixed information in this thread regarding the gland nut thread pitch. Does the 280z have M51x1.5 or M52X1.5? All of the post by John Coffey list the M51X1.5. I just want to clarify that this is indeed correct. Also, I confirmed that the E4-b36-816-B2 is a M52 X 1.5. Regards, Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 Any 240z users that did the P30-0032, if you have some female gland nuts kicking around that came with the inserts. Part number B30-627-B1 is what I'm interested in. I'd like to try these in conjunction with the male gland nut E4-B36-816-D1 for adapting my 36mm bilstein. Please shoot me an email if you have a set you can part with: JustinAOlson at gmail.com Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 Great! Look forward to what you find out. I'd send you mine if they weren't welded to the struts. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONZTER Posted March 12, 2009 Share Posted March 12, 2009 I'd bet money on it. I've had monoballs with less slop than that that were very easy to hear clunking. If you're using the gland nuts it's a non-issue. I've had my gland nuts loosen up 1/4 of a turn and you could hear and feel them moving around... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted March 12, 2009 Share Posted March 12, 2009 I've had my gland nuts loosen up 1/4 of a turn and you could hear and feel them moving around... Dang, thats nut much loosening of the gland nut. I didn't realize these cars were so sensitive to the gland nut being tight. You are running a 1.5" insert in a 1.71" strut tube though. That could account for some of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONZTER Posted March 12, 2009 Share Posted March 12, 2009 The taper on the bottom of the strut housing and the strut held everthing in place when tight, but when the nuts loosened up the strut would move up and and the gland nut rocked. Just a little and you coud hear it. I do have solid heim joints everywhers, so I feel everything. I ended up loctiting them and torquing the crud out of them as they kept coming loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted March 12, 2009 Share Posted March 12, 2009 All of the post by John Coffey list the M51X1.5. Its 52mm. The confusion comes from me by way of Koni where they list it as M51 but its really M52. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted March 12, 2009 Share Posted March 12, 2009 Its 52mm. The confusion comes from me by way of Koni where they list it as M51 but its really M52. Thats great news! Now I can section the strut tubes in the normal process, and use off the shelf gland nuts from Bilstein. Here are the two M52 X 1.5p gland nuts I've tracked down for the 36mm: E4-b36-816-B2 B4-B36-U242-B2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 From manually pushing the strut down with my hands, I measured a 4.75" travel on the R36-5022H0 stock. I'm curious to get it apart and cut down the bumpstop to see what I can achieve. Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 How are you going to relieve the gas pressure, and re-pressurize when you're done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 I'm having them revalved anyway. I figured they'd recharge them after revalving. Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Attached is a Solidworks Model of the R36-5022H0 insert. R36-5022H0.zip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Another conversion with Keith at Bilstein. The cap on the bottom of these inserts is pressed in. You can carefully remove it with a chisel. Once it is removed, you gain access to the internal bumpstop without depressurizing the strut. I will post pictures shortly. Also, the factory piston in these are digressive. They can be swapped out to linear pistons at no charge when they are revalved. Now to figure out the damn valving with a digressive piston... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 They can be swapped out to linear pistons at no charge when they are revalved. Why would anyone do that? Looking forward to pics. Have you checked that they fit appropriately in 280z struts yet? Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 I haven't torn apart my 280z suspension just yet. They did measure in at 1.805" OD at the top. The bottom is tapered, and measures in at 1.725" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 Here is a picture I found of a R36-5022-H0 torn apart to cut down the bump stop: I will be working on this myself soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 Why would anyone do that? More grip. That's what I'm told. It depends on the surface you run on. Lost of bumps digressive will probably be better but a smoother surface should favor linear valving. Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 Also depends on aero loading. Digressive valving can help control pitch by keeping the aero platform level when there's a lot of downforce and a bump is hit. You can build an aggressive nose on the bump curve to control the downforce and then blow off when a bump is encounterred. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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