Jump to content
HybridZ

post me some questions


Recommended Posts

if its going to have an auto trans and keep the EFI youll want this cam, as its a nice boost over stock,

 

 

http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00571&x=51&y=9

 

if you swap to a carb and a manual transmission, and 3.54:1-4.11 rear gear then this

 

will be a killer upgrade

 

http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00573&x=51&y=9

 

personally ID go with the carb and bigger cam here

 

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/manifolds/chevy/victor-ls1.shtml

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"grumpyvette, I've got some really easy questions for you that I cannot find out but still need answered. They're concerning the intake manifold on my L28et, its non-egr N42"

 

noname6-1.jpg

 

 

1. This is off the hot side my J-pipe and there's a nub I forgot where it goes to, perhaps number 3?

2. where does the air regulator connect to considering i'm not running ANY emissions?

3. Coming off the TB, what goes to this connection?

4. This is actually on my BOV and there's a nipple, should I connect this to the nipple coming off my wastegate (as seen in this picture)?

 

Photo-0647-1.jpg

Edited by grumpyvette
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Super easy yes, or no. lol

 

Will an LT1 mate to a datsun 5spd?

 

1972 240z Already rewired with 21 circuit painless kit and 12si high out put alt.

 

Gen1 LT1 Block from a Z28, a 5spd out of an 82 N/A zx as well as the r200.

 

I can get the motor for so cheap but, its an auto and I wont use the auto tranny

Edited by GrenadeZ
missing information
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Super easy yes, or no. lol

 

Will an LT1 mate to a datsun 5spd?

 

1972 240z Already rewired with 21 circuit painless kit and 12si high out put alt.

 

Gen1 LT1 Block from a Z28, a 5spd out of an 82 N/A zx as well as the r200.

 

I can get the motor for so cheap but, its an auto and I wont use the auto tranny

 

a good machinist can get about any transmission to bolt up with a custom modified bellhousing adapter but there are lots of those ,

available,

 

 

look thru the list of links on my data base

 

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=200 but without knowing exactly what trans you have I don,t even know which adapter would mount up correctly

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"grumpyvette, I've got some really easy questions for you that I cannot find out but still need answered. They're concerning the intake manifold on my L28et, its non-egr N42"

 

noname6-1.jpg

 

 

1. This is off the hot side my J-pipe and there's a nub I forgot where it goes to, perhaps number 3?

2. where does the air regulator connect to considering i'm not running ANY emissions?

3. Coming off the TB, what goes to this connection?

4. This is actually on my BOV and there's a nipple, should I connect this to the nipple coming off my wastegate (as seen in this picture)?

 

Photo-0647-1.jpg

 

rather than give you info Im not 100% sure is correct! and as a result of not working on those engines for many years Id prefer if some of the other guys answered this one

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Grumpy :)

I've asked about this long ago back in post #25, but now that it's summer I'm really wanting to go somewhere with everything.

I figured this one would be right up your alley.

Goal is to have a running streetable motor for a '69 camaro that is as respectable as possible on a serious budget - right around $800. The idea is to have the car running and drivable, doing what we can with the budget.

 

Here's what I already have to work with:

4 bolt main 350 (010 block) with stock lower end

462624 heads 76cc chambers - emissions friendly heads

 

307 block w/ stock heads and a mismatched (to say the least) cam .501 lift, 292dur

edelbrock performer intake w/ 1" spacer

freshly rebuilt holley 650cfm carb

stock th350

long tube headers

 

built th400 w/ higher stall converter

 

 

 

My idea was to stick with the stock bottom end on the 350 and go with a set of 1.94/1.50, 64cc "Camel Hump" heads I found locally. Gasket match them, valve job, and decking. Another option would be a set of 882 heads with new valves,springs,retainers,locs, and 1.5 comp roller rockers, but they're a 72cc combustion chamber.

Use the edelbrock intake and holley carb to keep things simple.

This is definitely isn't a matched set up, but I'm thinking it could be on the mark considering the funding I have available.

I'd need to pick a cam, and would love to upgrade the valvetrain if funding permits.

 

Really, I'm just thinking out loud and am looking for some direction like I was before.

 

 

Thanks in advance!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

its very difficult to impress on many guys , just how important selecting good cylinder heads are to the engines potential, both those heads will provide a restriction to flow and result in a significant reduction in the engines power potential

 

let me look around a bit and Ill post some suggestions

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Grumpyvette: I will second the comment regarding cylinder heads. Good heads in combination with good headers, good intake manifold and good camshaft make all the difference when it comes to power. Without good heads, its a LOOSING BATTLE.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay grumpy, here is my situation. I just swapped a BW T5 into my 1975 280Z 2+2. I got the trans and driveshaft out of a 1983 2+2 turbo. My problem is that the driveshaft is to short. After all i have read I was prepared for the driveshaft to be to long but this is not the case. Is it because i have the 2+2 model and it is a little longer? Besides having the driveshaft lenghtened. What are my options? Thanks for all your help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

its very difficult to impress on many guys , just how important selecting good cylinder heads are to the engines potential, both those heads will provide a restriction to flow and result in a significant reduction in the engines power potential

 

let me look around a bit and Ill post some suggestions

 

Grumpy, you advised me a few times on my old v8 build and I'm back for a little more info. I have a spare set of SBC heads that I believe are the 64cc combustion chambered heads (no accessory holes): 3782461

 

My question is: Are these heads worth keeping and finding a block/trans for, or should I just get a more modern engine and sell the heads to someone who already has a block? I've been considering a megasquirted twin-turbo lm7 with ls1 heads (or similar) as my end goal, but it's still quite a toss-up to my mind.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Grumpy, you advised me a few times on my old v8 build and I'm back for a little more info. I have a spare set of SBC heads that I believe are the 64cc combustion chambered heads (no accessory holes): 3782461

 

My question is: Are these heads worth keeping and finding a block/trans for, or should I just get a more modern engine and sell the heads to someone who already has a block? I've been considering a megasquirted twin-turbo lm7 with ls1 heads (or similar) as my end goal, but it's still quite a toss-up to my mind.

 

those heads are 40 plus year old technology your best off selling

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay grumpy, here is my situation. I just swapped a BW T5 into my 1975 280Z 2+2. I got the trans and driveshaft out of a 1983 2+2 turbo. My problem is that the driveshaft is to short. After all i have read I was prepared for the driveshaft to be to long but this is not the case. Is it because i have the 2+2 model and it is a little longer? Besides having the driveshaft lenghtened. What are my options? Thanks for all your help.

 

yes its because your wheel base is longer and yes you'll need a longer drive shaft built

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is my current problem. It seems that my intake is leaking oil. This is a LT1. I will have to reseal it. My question is: Is there coolant running through the intake or not. I am getting conflicting opinions and I do not want to crack the seal and get a crankcase full of coolant. The shop manual says in step #2 to drain the engine. Sounds to me like it runs through the intake. JBC3 says that the intake is dry. What say you?

Larry

Link to comment
Share on other sites

LT1PIC.jpg

p34413_image_large.jpg

 

lt1 cylinder heads don,t flow coolant thru the intake to the radiator like the earlier heads do, the water pump is the exit point for coolant flow.

 

lt1_water_pumps.jpg

 

NOTICE THE STANDARD DESIGN HEADS HAVE WATER to INTAKE TRANSFER PORTS

SBC.gif

Edited by grumpyvette
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...