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Wheel spacers.. are they that bad?!


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Im considering getting ZG flares or even the IMSA flares and I am wondering how the hell I am going to fill in the gap!! (BIG difference between the two.. i know i know)

 

 

I can do one of two things..

 

1) get some super expensive wheels with expensive tires

 

-or-

 

2) add wheel spacers

 

 

I've noticed a lot of people shiver and run away from the thought of wheel spacers... why is that?!

 

Super wide tires and wheels would be nice, but for a road car I dont need 375 tires and 10" wide wheels.. but I love the look of well done flares!!

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Many have to run the adapters to get a decent selection of wheels, since the RWD offset is getting rare and you can get anything in a Honda or other offset. I've run them for years on my 510 and now on the Z. I've seen them on many cars at the road course, too, so I have not issues with them. I've seen wheels fail more than failures from the adapters. That's my 2 cents. :)

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Guest 280ZForce

they use wheel spacers on race cars all the time, whether it be f1, rally, road course, etc. As long as they are properly secured they'll be fine... maybe something like the link below.

 

Make sure you have a countersunk hole on the spacer for a nut to go in to hold the spacer against the hub, as well as make sure they are hubcentric/lugcentric.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v461/PerformanceNISMO/VIR10022004/DSC00781.jpg

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Most people use relatively thin spacers, 10mm or so. Good spacers are hubcentric with a male and female side. This is to repeat the original hub ring for the wheel to engage.

 

Lugcentric like our cars are... can be a bit harder to do right.

 

The jury is out on what is good for the common man in this regard. I know from others' experience to constantly check the lug nuts on my modified vehicles.

 

The stock system was designed to be idiot proof. If they are properly torqued then they will not generally loosen by themselves. Sytems with modified wheels or added spacers may not actually tighten properly the first time around. You have to tighten wheel lugs in at least 3 steps. The spacers add an extra bit of slop in the system, this adds complexity in properly torquing them down. Besides all that, I have found that they tend to loosen the first track session. I usually have to retorque them at least once before they stay in spec.

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I would recommend adapters if you are planning on going out more than .5". The difference is a spacer is a disc with 4 holes in it that slides over your existing studs and then you bolt the wheel on. An adapter bolt onto your hub like a wheel does and then has 4 additional new studs to bolt the wheel to. The advantage to this is it does not put additional stress on the existing lug nuts. I got my adapters from

 

http://www.wheeladapter.com/

 

they are very high quality billet aluminum and made in the USA by a retired drag racer. But I do agree with the need for meaty tires to fill the flares. Skinny tires moved out do not look good. But adapters may give you the ability to get some cheaper wider rims.

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You have to be careful when using the spacers on lug centric vehicles. I am running two 5mm spacers in the front for clearance with my wheels. I have to torque the wheels with the car lifted, so that the lugs will center the wheel. If you do it with the car on the ground, the wheels will not be centered.

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I had some spacers on some Prime wheels that have a bit of positive offset (20) on my 280ZXT. amd believe me - you want spacers that EXACTLY match your lug pattern or you will rue the day you bought tje spacers.

 

I am talking vibration problems out the ying yang...

 

Not only that, but if you are laking only about 1/4" spacers, you have to change the studs - there isn't enough there for the spacer AND a good grip for the lug nuts - take ity from one who has had to be towed when a wheel ALMOST came off.

 

I bought the above Prime wheels and put 225/60/16's opn the rear, and 205/55/16s on the front and a couple of days later the spacers that were ordered for me (the insode of the tires were close to struts) came in - they installed the spaceres and 2 days later I almost wrecked the car when on of the wheels almost came off).

 

The people that installed everythin paid for the towing, I paid for new studs, but never liked the spacers.

 

I am now running 14x7" Western Cyclones on the car (daily driver and I care about ride) and am happy as a clam.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Most people use relatively thin spacers, 10mm or so. Good spacers are hubcentric with a male and female side. This is to repeat the original hub ring for the wheel to engage.

 

Lugcentric like our cars are... can be a bit harder to do right.

 

The jury is out on what is good for the common man in this regard. I know from others' experience to constantly check the lug nuts on my modified vehicles.

 

The stock system was designed to be idiot proof. If they are properly torqued then they will not generally loosen by themselves. Sytems with modified wheels or added spacers may not actually tighten properly the first time around. You have to tighten wheel lugs in at least 3 steps. The spacers add an extra bit of slop in the system, this adds complexity in properly torquing them down. Besides all that, I have found that they tend to loosen the first track session. I usually have to retorque them at least once before they stay in spec.

 

QFT

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