Crankcase vent to catch can...PICs?

[RisingSun]

Does anyone here have a crankcase catchcan for their L24/26/28 where you retained the stock 1" pipe that came out of the block?

 

I'm trying to figure out a way to attach a vent tube from the metal stock crankcase vent piping that sticks out of the L28 block and step it down to my tiny hose barb on my crankcase catchcan, and I'm looking for anybody who has made a catchcan to post pictures of how they did it.

[JMortensen]

One way is to use the stock hose. It necks down to about 5/8" if I recall.

[RisingSun]

That was actually one of my only ideas, but I knew there are people out there who may have put other ideas into practice.

 

All the car pieces are in boxes while it's getting the makeover at the bodyshop, and I was in the garage looking for that molded rubber hose, but it doesn't want to be found right now.

 

Thanks for the idea Jon.

[bradyzq]

Have you considered using the valve cover vent instead for your catchcan?

 

It has a smaller diameter.....

[RisingSun]

Well, I don't really want to use a K&N type filter at the crankcase. I would rather trap any acidy, oily crud instead of blowing it all over the enginebay.

[340ZXTTAZ]

Well if the engine is out or if you have access to the block. You can buy a weldable fitting to it and reduce it that way. Plus it will look trick and function really well.

[Daeron]

Have you considered using the valve cover vent instead for your catchcan?

 

It has a smaller diameter.....

 

Well, I don't really want to use a K&N type filter at the crankcase. I would rather trap any acidy, oily crud instead of blowing it all over the enginebay.

 

I think he meant to suggest using the valve cover tube as the connection point for your catch-can.

[RisingSun]

You can buy a weldable fitting to it and reduce it that way. Plus it will look trick and function really well.

 

Where can I find more information on a welded fitting and where can I go to get them? That sounds like a good idea.

[bradyzq]

I think he meant to suggest using the valve cover tube as the connection point for your catch-can.

Yup.

[JMortensen]

Where can I find more information on a welded fitting and where can I go to get them? That sounds like a good idea.

Weld a plate to the end of the tube and then weld a steel fitting to the plate. How much more information do you need?

[RisingSun]

bradyzq, if I used the valve cover vent I would still have the same problem of fitting it to the huge 1" diameter crankcase metal tube extruding from the block.

 

jmortensen, yes, the most descriptive you can be is appreciated since I was not raised around engines and am learning just about everything I am doing as I go.

 

[JMortensen]

I think you misunderstood Brady. If you hooked the crankcase vent to the valve cover, you'd have a sealed engine again, which is a no no. You could run the tube from the valve cover to the catch can and then plug the block vent. Personally, I wouldn't do that. There is a baffle in the valve cover and I don't know that you could get all of the pressure out that way.

 

For welding a fitting on, take it someplace and have them figure it out. All you need is the tube, a flat piece of metal, and a steel fitting. You could for example use a hacked up heater hose fitting like the one that goes around the back of the head, or the block fitting that connects to the heater core.

[cygnusx1]

I bet you could find a compression fitting to fit the block vent tube after you hack off the swage on the end of it. If you can get a compression fitting on there, you can reduce it cleanly to any sized NPT or AN fittings. There are plenty of options if you get a little creative.

[RisingSun]

I think that is the answer to this. Finding a compression fitting and reducing it from there sounds like the best solution.

 

Thanks to everybody who put in their two cents.

 

When I have it worked out, I will post some pictures.

[Daeron]

You know, if you whack that tube with a hammer hard enough, you can usually dislodge it and pull it right out. Its just press-fit in there; it leaves a hole that might be able to be threaded, or if not, you are left without any remnant of the pipe there and you can weld a cleaner plate.

 

(I *am* right, right?? thats the tube you can never use as a handle when picking up a bare block because it comes out half the time... right?)

[PanzerAce]

 

 

 

I have nothing to add to this discussion other than to say that is a REALLY clean looking engine

 

What intake is that?

[RisingSun]

Thanks, I'm really trying to do everything correct here, so the engine is reliable and lasts a long time. It's a 3.1 Stroker, and all the precautions were taken: sonic tested block, entire assembly balanced along with flywheel and pulley, ceramic coated bearings and pistons, ported head, and the intake is a handbuilt custom which looks good but won't know about the function until I get the engine running with the SDS system. I'm trying to get this to breath the best it can for max power within the budget.

[z-ya]

What I did is convert the block vent to a -8AN fitting, then I used a right angle -8AN swivel fitting to wrap the vent hose around the front of the engine to the catch can mounted on the passenger fender. The valve cover vents into the catch can through a -6AN fitting. The catch can has a drain on the bottom, and a large K&N type filter on the top. Has worked well for many miles on the race track.

 

This is kind of an old picture. The car has a stainless steel catch can now (plastic ones are cheap, and not all that strong).

 

[340ZXTTAZ]

There are some tubes that actually reduce with a smaller 90 deg. tube off of the main tube. u could use that, those tubes are only pressed into the block.

[510six]

I used a L28et vent tube and a "Y" fitting, which are both 5/8 into a catch can with a drain to the oil pan. The catch can then goes to an electric vacuum pump.

 

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ep/airoilseparators_homebuilders.html

 

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=131993&highlight=electric+vacuum+pump