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340ZXTTAZ

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Everything posted by 340ZXTTAZ

  1. Hey Stony where did you get the power and ground distribution blocks posted a couple of post back?
  2. I happen to see Jimbo ( the OP) today and told him I would like to help get the car situated. Full disclosure I have never messed with the Megasquirt line of EFI but I have installed both Haltech and Nistune unit on my cars. I'm trying to pull up a wiring diagram and read as much about the installation as I can so I can get a basis for where the system is in its current state. I 'm also going to go over the wiring w/ Jimbo and make sure everything is in the right place and hooked up properly. Thanks in advance for your help!!! How do we check that? FYI He has no pigtail for the dizzy so its connected directly to the bottom of the dizzy. Also if i read correctly the 1k resistor gives the G/B wire for the dizzy 5v right. So I should 12v for dizzy power then ground and finally 5v to the G/B wire terminal. Is there a way visually on the MSII board to see if it is getting the ignition pulse from the dizzy? According the OP there is no tach movement and nothing on the software indicating that the motor is turning over although he is cranking it. No spark what so ever. It is the stock wheel. I will double check about the resistor. I didn't see it by the dizzy wiring but I don't know if it's been done over at the ECU board side. I dont think so and that maybe one problem.
  3. SO was that dyno on pump gas? If so that is very impressive, right choice going with the E85 fuel. I second this ^^^^^^^ Turbo technology has come a long way, especially in the last 5 yrs take advantage of that and don't be afraid to go bigger there are tons of 4 cylinders running 72mm turbos. with your transmission you should have no problem keeping a turbo that size in it's sweet spot(In terms of engine rpm). if you plan on spraying it off the line anyway that should help spool it up on the bottom end plus an anti-lag system via your ecu.
  4. That motor has a lot more in it. It's currently @ 18 psi right? That turbo hasn't even hit its sweet spot yet, am I missing something here why do yo want to sell the motor before it's reached it full potential?
  5. 260DET, It was mentioned earlier (around page 2 I think) to go through the motor and verify that everything was working properly. If the motor was blown and scraped then this is a useless exercise. U both agree that the Turbo is perfect for the HP and TQ number you are looking for. The system when on the VG30DET performed properly, but not when on the VG33ET. Again yes it could have been a shit motor built by a inexperienced individual but the Dyno numbers you posted for the motor suggest that it was on par with several other single cam VG's.
  6. I just want to say that this is one of the more insitful topics/conversations on this forum. thank you to all the contributors for their input and a special thanks to Gollum for the graphs, examples,and hard data to back up his statements during the course of the conversation. I look forward to reading the progress the OP makes mving forward.
  7. Thanks for the info thats exactly what I was looking for. Nice work guys. I look forward to following your progress.
  8. Ok I've decided to hold on to the turbo but all the other stuff I'm willing to let go. Shipping via Fedex ground for a 50# box is ~ $60 Here are the pics. I'm thinking $275 for the Mani, 2 j- pipes and the waste gate. If you want the intercooler I have two $100.00 each. I'll have to post pics later but I is a Cartech and the other is from a Isuzu truck.
  9. I will check the weight and get you some pictures and what I want for everything. Are you interested in a intercooler too?
  10. I have a manifold, a J-pipe, a Tial 38mm wastegate, and a Garret T04E w/ a T3 .82 A/R housing. Should be good for 400hp with supporting mods.
  11. Are you using his roller pistons? If not did they still change the chamber design on the head.
  12. I just wanted to ask you a few questions about your head work since no one else asked. I dont recall reading if it was just some lite P&P and valve job or did you go all out? Were/ are you happy with the work Endyn did for you. Would you be willing to disclose the flow numbers? If not I understand I wanted to compare the Nissan 26 head flow numbers vs other top flowing heads i.e 2jz, B18, ect...... Great Build!!!!
  13. Well taking into considering that I've spent over 3k with your company in the last year just on RB parts I am willing to buy from a local (US) company. Would you please pm me with a price for a stock RB30 block shipped to 85040.
  14. I was wondering if anyone had a reliable source for RB30 blocks whether they be short or long. I know that Raw Brokerage occasionally has some built units but they are pretty pricey IMHO. Thanks for your help.
  15. Thank you so much guys. Its gonna be tight but I think its going to work. I'll post pics after I get it mocked up.
  16. I suppose it may vary a little because of the lean but, I'm just looking for a general # maybe even a max-min #'s. Thanks for your help.
  17. I need to know the distance from the exhaust side of the head (RB25- RB26) to the shock tower on a S series z car. Basically I have a great deal for a compound turbos manifold and I need to see how much room I have to work with. Thanks Guys!!!!
  18. Hey I've got one of those Cannon Intakes for sale over @ Z31 Performance. It is drill out for injector bungs already, all it needs is the plenum made and throttle body flange. Sorry for the sameless plug, but at least you can get an idea of what he was talking about. http://www.z31performance.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=36404
  19. I'm just using the factory electronic distributor, MSD blaster coil and wires.
  20. The runs were made with standard 91 octane from my local shell station. I'm running RC Eng. 550cc injectors and a base FP of 42 psi. I agree with the general concenssus that I need to work on the tune some more. I was just dissappointed with even those results. Plus I dont think that I will gain that much more overall like jeffp said. Seat of the pants it seems like a 300whp motor and I've been in plenty of 300+ whp cars. I was wondering about the cam timing myself. I'll look at the entire setup and see if I can find anything that would explain the #'s Thank for the responses and advice.
  21. The piping is 2.5" in and out and yes there are a couple of spots to change on the tune especially in the 4500-5500 range plus its way too rich at 6000-6500 mark. Still need to get back there and iron out the tune on the dyno, I ran out of time and $$$. Thanks for the input.
  22. I changed the link to the img. see if that helps.
  23. Well after messing with z cars for many years I finally made it the Dyno today. I was hoping for better numbers but who doesnt right? Here is the specs on the motor: 81 N/A block bored .040 over with TRW pistons Factory rods w/ arp rod bolts Falpro HG and New factory turbo head bolts P90A head with slight P&P and Shnieder cam .460 lift split duration 270 int. & 260 exh. Factory intake and exhaust manifolds/ 60mm TB T3/TO4E 57 trim turbo- open DP Cheap Ebay intercooler and piping Supporting fuel mods with Haltech F9 computer (Dinosaur, I know) Here is the run with the most power. I know my a/r are lean in some areas and pig rich in the top end. 11-12 psi on all runs.What do you think about the numbers? Should I have more power or am I expecting too much from my little L28ET?
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