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Oil Sump, got some ?s...


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I got a ARE oil sump a while back for a old Z, Totaled it and now thinking of putting it in my turbo swap car. I'm missing a pully, perhaps a tentionor, and maybee some other stuff. I have never used one before so if someone can point me in the right direction, i'd appriciate it.

 

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You'll need the following to complete your dry sump system:

 

1. Engine block mounting bracket for the pump.

2. Gilmer belt pully for crankshaft (might also need drive pulleys for water pump, alternator, and any other accessory).

3. Scavenge line filters to keep crap out of the pump.

4. Remote oil tank.

5. Additional -10/-12 oil lines and fittings to plumb the entire system.

6. Pressure side filter.

7. Block adapters for oil filter boss and pressurized oil inlet at the old oil pump location.

8. Assorted fasteners, clampes, etc. to route the oil lines.

 

All of this is still available from ARE. Figure about $650 more for the parts you'll need.

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been on that page, its not very user friendly, wish i could find a catalog or something.

 

A Public Service Announcement

 

There's this thing called a telephone. It allows person to person synchronous voice communication and its very effective. Been around a while. There's also this technology called e-mail. It allows asynchronous text communication between two people. Check this page: http://www.drysump.com/index1.htm

 

At the top, the group of numbers is what you punch in on the telephone to talk with someone. Just below that, the group of letters with the ampersand in the middle is an e-mail address. Type that into your e-mail program and then type your message and hit the SEND button.

 

BTW: Their catalog is on their web site right here: http://www.drysump.com/areacatg.pdf

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I'm with Howler Monkey---sometimes people use a dedicated pressure/scavenge pump for the Turbo which has it's own coolers and uses a different oil than in the rest of the crankcase...

 

Failing that, then you would need a scavenget hookup on the pan to accomodate the turbo return/drain line.

 

It's a bit overkill for a street car.

 

Though, for my Bonneville Project it would be the cat's teats! Selling? muahahaha

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John, thanks for your comments, regular and sarcastic. i understand that phone is useful, but my schedule isn't great for dealing with most companies, also I tend to try and not keep people on the phone to much if its stuff I don't understand fully. Info on forums, pics, etc helps 100 times more generally. I spend a bunch of time explaining stuff to customers at my shop, and end up refereing them to online sources so i can get work done.

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I've installed/modified two ARE dry sump systems on L6 powered 240Zs. For any reasonable sized oil tank (1.5 gallons at a bare minimum) it pretty much has to go in the interior of the car. That makes the oil system plumbing fairly complete (and long) with the required filters and coolers. It is the best way to setup the engine oiling system but its complex and costs a bunch, even if you do it yourself.

 

Mark at ARE is a great guy and will answer any question you might have.

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You mean like an A/N MS positionable "T" off the scavenge line at the pan.... (which was what I had in mind when I posted it, not necessarily returning it all the way to the pan. Not a big fan of unsupported fittings in runs of hose when it can be avoided.)

 

Tomato/Tomatoe?

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  • 1 month later...
I've installed/modified two ARE dry sump systems on L6 powered 240Zs. For any reasonable sized oil tank (1.5 gallons at a bare minimum) it pretty much has to go in the interior of the car. That makes the oil system plumbing fairly complete (and long) with the required filters and coolers. It is the best way to setup the engine oiling system but its complex and costs a bunch, even if you do it yourself.

 

Mark at ARE is a great guy and will answer any question you might have.

 

 

Sorry to bump an old (ish) thread, but could you explain why the tank would have to go inside the car? Isn't there a bunch of room on the passenger side of the engine?

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Take two 1 gallon plastic milk bottles and cut one in half and tape it to the bottom of the other. Now try to fit that somewhere in the engine compartment of a 240Z while still allowing room for three -12 AN lines, a breather, etc. It can be done but it makes for a very crowded engine bay.

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Moving it towards the center of the car (at least equidistant between the wheels) helps handling compared to loading it up high where the battery formerly was... Or worse, out where the EVAP cannister would be on a 260 or 280Z.

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