scottyMIz Posted August 11, 2002 Share Posted August 11, 2002 guys i went to the track again to get some better times with 18 psi of boost and a better ic.Well i went up did a great burnout and then staged.Light turned green and boom clunk clunk clunk.I knew exactly what it was the diff mount that i just changed about 3 weeks ago broke again This thing is new it even still has the stickers on it it's so new.I'm stumped what do the big hp guys do to keep the diff planted and still have drivability?I know there is a solid one but man i don't want the noise of it.I had a strap on it tight it was aircraft cable but it keeps pulling it apart and i had it tight. I didn't have to worry about this last year the clutch must have absorbed it all.The clutch from timz is just insane when it grabs i love it just wish the diff would hold.Anyone got any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottyMIz Posted August 11, 2002 Author Share Posted August 11, 2002 ok i searched and found that someone had asked this and i found three great sites that have good info si i plan to do that it says on them and make my own.Is everyone with some good power out put modded their diff mount? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted August 11, 2002 Share Posted August 11, 2002 What about the Ron Tyler design? http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=7;t=000774 I plan to use this design with slight changes. I plan to make it with fewer welds, just one bent piece from bolt holes to bolt holes with the reinforcing piece welded on the back. However, I'm not running big hp. But still, this looks like the best layout I've seen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 11, 2002 Share Posted August 11, 2002 Dan..Thanx for the Hybrid link. Now that I have ink, the more notable posts get printed to stuff in the JTR manual. How did you manage bending the steel in your mount with only the red handled crescent wrench? LOL It is amazing what you can do with a single tool. Did you ever consider hooking the wrench up to a battery and making an arc welder out of it ? Stick a coat hanger on the end for rod. Would you wire the wrench to the positive or negative post? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
660Z Posted August 11, 2002 Share Posted August 11, 2002 all i did was bent a 1/8 flat metal bar over the rear....and bolted it to the two bolts on top of the rear and two bolts on the front crossmember....if you still have a r180 front member the holes are already there i used 3/8 header bolts and you`ll need i think 5.5-6" bolts for the rear. quite a few are using this type of unit...just bend the bar in a vise...no welding keep it all one unit....no noise or vibration...won`t loosen up and chances are never break.it one of those things that people over engineer and it doesn`t need to be....mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottyMIz Posted August 12, 2002 Author Share Posted August 12, 2002 i like the other design better that someone made it works good.The one with two pieces of pipe welded into the mount on the car and use the old stock mount and drill holes and then put in rubber mounts and bolts all the way thru.That way if the rubber breaks you stull have a bolt running thru to hold you.Oh ya i also found that i broke the aircraft cable holding the diff down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted August 12, 2002 Share Posted August 12, 2002 I think you're refering to Simon DeGroot's design: http://www.usq.edu.au/users/degroot/240z/pages/diffmount.htm Of which I am a big fan. I copied it using some fence tubing and 280Z poly trans mount bushings: http://240z.jeromio.com/diffmount.html My write up is kinda sucky, so if you have any questions, feel free to ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted August 12, 2002 Share Posted August 12, 2002 Terry, why bother with an OE diff mount above the Diff? Use the GM Tranny Urethane replacement in the Ron Tyler design - it's interlocking and won't break under acceleration or decelleration (I've been testing both lately - coming down off of 5 grand in 3rd makes alot of nice noise - out of the pipes that is. ) The Ron Tyler design isn't solid - it uses a tranny mount to isolate the vibrations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted August 12, 2002 Share Posted August 12, 2002 Has anyone taken the Ron Tyler design, but instead of being solid, build it tall enough so that an OEM mount can be placed between it and the differential (the OEM mount on top of the diff instead of below it)? This way the hard hole-shots will compress it instead of pull it apart, and you will still maintain the OEM "feel" you want, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z ya Posted August 14, 2002 Share Posted August 14, 2002 Scotty, I copied Don manzo's set up. So easy and dirt cheap. I took some 2x2 by 1/4 inch angle iron and cut it the with of the front diff mount.I then drilled and tapped 2 3/8's holes into the metal part of the mount. Then drill your angle iron and bolt it in. The 2" foot goes under the the cross member and kills all pinion wrap! I just got it done last nite and it work killer! Don's car runs 11.54 at 121 so I know this is a proven set up. If ya want I will try and get some pics for ya. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted August 14, 2002 Share Posted August 14, 2002 can we see photos of that? that sounds tough and i know it must be cuz i heard that 11 second car drive and it sounds like its killin time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted August 14, 2002 Share Posted August 14, 2002 Originally posted by z ya:Scotty, I copied Don manzo's set up. So easy and dirt cheap. I took some 2x2 by 1/4 inch angle iron and cut it the with of the front diff mount.I then drilled and tapped 2 3/8's holes into the metal part of the mount. Then drill your angle iron and bolt it in. The 2" foot goes under the the cross member and kills all pinion wrap! I just got it done last nite and it work killer! Don's car runs 11.54 at 121 so I know this is a proven set up. If ya want I will try and get some pics for ya. Scotty - I broke my old mount just like you. I thought I was clever, and made a piece of angle iron just like z ya describes! So much for originality, but it's simple and it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottyMIz Posted August 14, 2002 Author Share Posted August 14, 2002 well i used the design that i described but i used smaller pipe and then used hydraulic hose as the bushing(has metal brade in it)and then used bronze bushings and it doesn't move at all i had my lady get in and put on the ebrake and then go forward and back and the diff stayed right there.But when i changed driveshaft flanges from my other r200 to the 3.54 r200 i tried to tap the flange back on instead of tightening it on like i was suppose to so now i get noise when it's on decel and only when i let off the throttle before i push the clutch in.So tonight i'm gonna try to tighten it more just incase i didn't do it enuf before.But so far the mount has been proven on timz's car he runs the same design but with regular bushings and mine is just a modified version of it.I like the way it loks and lets me still have alot of room under there for the ebrake and everything.Thanks guys for the suggestions i'll update if it will hold my torque monster at the track next time i go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulR Posted August 15, 2002 Share Posted August 15, 2002 OK, have to chime in with my version. Its similar to the angle iron approach, but instead, I folded up a "U" channel out of 1/4" plate to catch both sides. I also added a rubber pad between this bracket and the bottom of the cross-member: I made the rubber pad from an old 240Z engine mount that I cut up with a hack-saw. Here it is mounted to the cross-member: I carved away part uf the U-Channel to clear my 3" exhaust. Here is everthing installed (from the rear looking forward) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted August 15, 2002 Share Posted August 15, 2002 Paul, that's a really elegant design! Love it! I'm all for having isolation in the mount, and not having it hit metal to metal when the diff is under high torque, lifting the nose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted August 15, 2002 Share Posted August 15, 2002 I also need to sign in on this thread, 3 years ago when the R180 grenaded I did the R200 LSD swap and soon after I experienced the broken mount syndrome. I also did the snubber with the 2X2 1/4" angle and have had no trouble since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 15, 2002 Share Posted August 15, 2002 Paul,, Now I am going to have to copy and print another good design since yours is the easiest for me to make. And Dave I just blew my colered ink cartridge on your simpler design Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted August 16, 2002 Share Posted August 16, 2002 I have 4 of the 2X2 1/4" angle front diff mount brackets left from when I did mine. It seems that for some reason when I make a part I do a couple extra in case I mess one up. $5.00 each to cover shipping. These are easy to install without tearing the car apart. See the pictures 2 posts back. V8-240Z@juno.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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