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MegaSquirt II on L28ET - need some help.

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I just found this information on a VW forum.

 

This will all depend on if you have Q16 installed or not (ignition driver transistor).

If installed:

 

JS10 needs to be jumpered to IGBTIN

Spark output set to non inverted

 

If not installed:

 

JS10 needs to be jumpered to the location Q16 pin 2 (center)

Spark output set to inverted

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Yeah, I have a BIP373 module on Q16. So, I should not have any other wires connected to the BIP373. The wire going to JS10 should be going to IGBTIN. Correct?

 

Sorry if I am coming off a bit dense. This information is not very apparent to someone who is not intimately familiar with the MegaSquirt boards. I am piecing things together from multiple sources and just want to get things right.

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Hey , before i even looked at page 2 i had a feeling your jumpers on the board are not set right . First thing take a pic of the back of your board where your jumpers are and post it here. That would help people assessing your issue. Secondly dont go getting information from any boards stay true to hybridz diyautotune and ms forums. Go to megasquirt website and look at the step where you have to choose ignition setup, there you will see what you have to do when it comes to jumpers. If your running the 280zxt dizzy you are looking for the HALL optical type. Then since your using the coil and going to fire from ms2 go diyautotune for the right up for direct coil control from ms. I know my post seems to get you backtracking but these are the things you would need to check first and foremost. I would thirdly check if there is continuity between coil and ms PIN 36

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Alright, guys, I got it running.

 

Just to make this clear to anyone who may read this thread in the future:

 

When using a BIP373 module, the wire from JS10 will go to the leftmost button on the BIP373 which is the same as the IGBTIN. There is a patch of printed circuit going between the two. It is probably better to just use IGBTIN as that is what it is there for.

 

Alright, so it runs. Great. It runs like crap though and I am looking for suggestions as to why. According to my wideband, I am super rich. Also between runs I messed with the timing a bit at the distributor and that seemed to help a little. I feel like I may not be getting spark on all cylinders. I have posted a new datalog. I am also including some pictures of the MegaSquirt unit itself, as requested.

20090309.zip

2009-03-08 011-1_thumb.jpg

2009-03-08 013-1_thumb.jpg

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Nice going,

 

Ok now you have to get it to run smooth. First suggestion is to remove the wideband until you get the engine to run better. You will mess up the sensor by having the engine run really rich for long periods of time.

 

If the engine is missing, You need to find out which cylinders or cylinder is causing the rough run. Check spark at all plugs, check the plugs, check for vacuum leaks.

 

If you get it to run smoothly then you can work on your ve tables to get a nice smooth idle.

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Hey, guys, really quick. I've got the car running to fairly smoothly all the way up to 2000RPM or so. After I try to rev past that, the car totally dies. Does anyone have any ideas what may be causing this. It has been suggested that I may have a problem with interferences with the signal wire coming from my distributor to the MegaSquirt, which I will look at, but is there anything else I should be looking at?

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Alright, I got it going smooth up until about 3000RPM, and I was messing with other settings, which did not help. After a while, I decided to call it quits and just do a datalog for the evening - at which point the car quit starting. So, anyways, I am headed down in the next day or two to change the oil (it is starting to get gas in it from running so rich) and I will try to take a datalog of it at that time.

 

Until then, any advice is appreciated.

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Alright, here is the latest datalog from the car. I could have got it to rev a little higher (around 3000 rpm) if I had let it warm up for a little bit longer. The timing is way out there because I guess the distributor shaft as installed incorrectly. 95 degrees is a timing light verified 22 degrees BTDC.

Archive.zip

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Alright, guys, I got it to rev to almost 5000RPM, and I took some pictures of my distributor and camshaft with the engine at TDC. Can someone verify that I have everything set properly? I'll be posting everything in the next few minutes...

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Alright, guys, here is the MSQ and datalog of what got me to nearly 5000RPM. I would really appreciate it if someone could take a look and offer some advice. Turns out, my trigger offset was waaaaay off. I have it close to what it should be now, I think, but I will need to verify with a timing light.

 

Anyways, when I hit like 4800RPM, the engine just falls on its face and nearly dies. It sounds pretty smooth running up to that, but I can't just mash the throttle to get it there - I have to slowly add more pressure on the accelerator until it reaches that RPM. So I can't just give it WOT and gain RPM. Anything over ~30% throttle will just kill it. Does anyone have a suggestion for that?

 

Thanks a bunch guys! :)

5000RPM.zip

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Do you have the wideband hooked back up?. Since it is revving better I will assume the engine doesn't have the miss in it anymore.

 

How much tuning and driving have you done with the car?.

 

Thanks for the reply. I have hooked the wideband back up, but it is all over the place - I need to revisit this. I haven't driven the car yet, I am really looking for it to rev easier before I venture out onto the streets with it.

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Turns out my trigger offset was still wrong. I changed it to 38 degrees, and now the timing settings from the MSQ match what happens with the timing light. Other than that, I still cannot get it to rev over about 4800RPM and it is not entirely smooth.

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