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GT240 lives!


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Hey all. I haven't been keeping up with my fellow Z heads in a while. I started my own shop and things have been going real good. Super busy you know. I've been talking to a NASA rep that lives in my town and he is very impressed with my work. I hope to get on as a designated build station in northern Ca. Anyway I just wanted to catch you all up with the build. The race engine is complete, I took a little more weight out, built a new splitter and air damn, and added some custom headers. My buddy took this vid of the dyno run on Friday. I was very happy with the result. Check it out.

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Very nice !

 

That is a nice looking car can't wait to see it finished. Good job on the video too its really nice to see a kinda start to finish of a dyno run, don't often get to see the whole thing.

 

Can't wait to see the finished machine ! ! Great numbers !

 

Chris

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Hey Jon. Good to hear from you. Well, the spring rates (550fr/500 rear)are too stiff after driving it for sure. The ride height will also need to be raised up a touch. As for the CV's they worked great on the dyno run and for the three quick little test spins untill this afternoon. The right side broke once again. I'm at a loss. I don't know how to proceed. The shop that build them has got to have an answer.

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Did the shaft pull out again? That would mean you need a longer shaft. I'm sure you're aware that the right side shaft should be longer than the left.

 

If you drop the spring rate you'll need to raise the car up, otherwise you'll be hitting the bumpstops a lot. I'm thinking you might be hitting the bumpstops with the spring rate at 500+.

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Thanks a lot. The mirrors are from HRP world, they are small and shaped much like a motorcycle mirror. The body kit is a Reaction Research 280YZ that I changed a little. I have a write up and pics on cardomain if you want to check it out. As for the shafts they did the exact same thing as before. I took some time off from the build and neglected to test fit the repaired shafts untill a month ago. They were too long and would not even mount in place. I just got them back a week ago and checked everything before installation. The compressed length looked good but they must still be too short. I've got some issues to address but reguardless of these I consider the day a success.

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The diff is a R200 with a Kaaz two way center section. The cv shafts are custom from "the driveshaft shop". They are based on the 280ZXT style with 300M shafts and custom inboard cups. To tell the truth I have had nothing but problems with this mod. I should have just run a Subaru, Jag, or Chevy system. I talked to the guy who built the shafts today. I sent him some pics and discussed the issues. He still swears that I have too much travel, bad geometry, or misalignment. I have checked everything more than twice and the shafts have got to be short. Quite a few of you guys have some high output road and race cars and I'm wondering what is the standard set-up to run on these cars? If I don't get some seat time in this car this coming season...I will loose it. Help me out if you all have any answers. Thanks

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jay, perhaps consider the q45 diff. i've been running that for over a year now. several track events [road courses] with zero issues. my z puts down fewer horses than your car [330 rwhp, 360 rwtq] but i think you may find this will work for you. the q ratio is a 3.54 and has a vsld.

 

the other option may be a 350z or g35 diff, very slightly larger carrier but overall like the q45. the difference? torvec has been testing a prototype torque sensing diff and i believe it will see production in the near future-for the 350z/g35 diffs.

 

my 2cents.

 

by the way, love your z!

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Did your KAAZ diff have the grooves so that the halfshafts click into place with the circlips? I read another post recently where they didn't. There are enough people running around with R200s in 240Z's that I think you can narrow your search a little:

 

Possibilities I can think of off the top of my head:

1. Passenger side shaft is just too short.

2. The lack of circlips is allowing the torque to drive the CV shafts out of the diff and then it is "wrapping up" and coming out on the wheel end.

3. Car is too low. You have the most severe rear control arm angle I've seen on any car. Could be that if you raised the car up that the change in length on the CV would be less drastic.

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I removed the pass side and noticed something interesting. When this all began and I first got the shafts they were built using the factory outer hubs. I cleaned out the excess grease and saw that the stock retaining nubs are almost wore down. Now regardless of the overall length of the cv's once the vehicle builds up enough rotational speed the inner tripod bearings are just walking past these nubs. This in turn is causing the shaft to break apart. I do think the car must be raised up but the diff has been raised in the chassis and centered with the outer hub. I feel the only way to fix this problem is to have custom outer hubs built that have some sort of retaining housing or clip. I've added a few pics so you all can see what I mean.

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