jeff81 Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 Having searched a lot and using what I have found up to this point I would like some further help: I have the manual JTR and the conversion is all JCI kit I am about to start a full restoration-modification of my 1977 280Z. I have an LS1 crate, new T56, rebuilt Q45 rear differential, and CVs. I bought the rear conversion kit from modern motorsports and a RT front transmission mount. The suspension will have completely new bushings AZ suspension for all 4 corners with wildwood brake conversion. I have the mechanical emergency brake kit, thanks…. Body will be basically stock with DOT approved HID conversion, ZG flares (not sure which ones yet), different hood vents, and louvered inspection lids. Since I have read all the overheating issues and the aero threads, I will be getting a strong radiator with duel fans and making a radiator box while sealing off the rest of the front end. I am considering a BRE front spoiler, maybe rear also, but I would want them in CF along with the ZG flares. The issue that I have is that this will be my daily driver car. If I get stuck I am just that stuck. So are there certain parts or other things that I should get in order to make this thing truly reliable? I am not a mechanic or an engineer. I have been given the opportunity to do almost whatever I want to the car whether its parts or other conversions this first time. After the initial build I will be on my own. I am a poor college kid that will have to deal with 100% of the cost instead of partial cost of this creation of my dream car. Are there certain starters or other parts (Brands or Specific Types) that I need to truly make this reliable? Is this conversion actually able to be reliable? Should I start saving for the high end AAA service? Is this just a dream or can it actually work out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usa3776 Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 i daily drive my car and it doesnt have half of that fancy stuff. a pullout motor and trans from a wrecked car and a stock diff. run it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
janaka Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 the ls1 is the easy part, getting the 30yr old car to keep up with it can be the tricky part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff81 Posted June 1, 2009 Author Share Posted June 1, 2009 I am having a guy that has built a few rail drag cars and other race cars along with kit cars. I told him how important it is to strengthen things up. Since he is going to media blast it and then repair all the rust along with a 6 point roll cage (custom) if it can fit with me in there (6'2" 215), that should work. I was thinking more along the line of specific types or should I just go with whatever: Radiators I have read it all and seems like Ron Davis racing or something like that is a great brand. I have read everything on the spring rates on this site and what shocks I should switch to when my suspension goes. Tokico Iluminas 5 way adjustable. I am thinking that 17x9 or 17x9.5 all the way around if I can fit it. Alternator - Does it matter the brand? Are there types of tricks or other conversion that I need other than the Ron Tyler front mount? (The more things that I can get now the faster he will be able to finish the car.) Thanks for replies. Jeff Is this thread in the correct location: LS1 4th generation V8 right moderators? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavy85 Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 Is this conversion actually able to be reliable? Should I start saving for the high end AAA service? Is this just a dream or can it actually work out? I bought a wrecked '02 Camaro w/ 42k miles for my 240. Completely stock and I have never even split the engine from the T56. I drive my car occasionally to work but mostly to the track to race it. Between 80 and 200 miles one way to the track. Drag, road coarse, autox. Stock 240Z radiator, stock Camaro fuel system, stock 240Z 1/2 shafts and stub axles. Only broke once and that was a block from home when it chucked the driveshaft. I had the stock Camaro aluminum shaft shortened and they did a crappy job and it broke at their weld - the single part that I outsourced in the whole build. I've raced it probably a dozen or more times since the swap plus probably 5k street miles back and forth to the track. It's dead nuts reliable. Last Saturday was an open track day. Six 20 minute sessions with 230+ water temps for half of them. Monday was a high speed autox. Threw a belt during the first practice and ran half a lap with no water pump. Threw a belt on the front straight bouncing off the rev limiter in 4th (~115 MPH). I realized this when it puke antifreeze on my tires and spun four corners later. Gauge was pegged at 260 deg after running full tilt of about 3/4 of a mile with NO water pump. Replace belt, finished race, drove home 200 miles with no drama. These can take some abuse and get you home. I also run on full slicks so have high grip and high power and it takes it. Now watch I get stuck 2 hours away this weekend at the next race ..... Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 The RT mount won't work with the Q 45 diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff81 Posted June 2, 2009 Author Share Posted June 2, 2009 If the R/T mount wont work with the Q45 diff, is there something else you would suggest? Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 Maybe Ross has something. I don't remember if anyone ever did a batch of those. All the front mounts I've seen on the Q 45 were custom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdeezs Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 yeah ross sells a whole bolt in kit for the q45 diff http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=74&PHPSESSID=156d790303127333ab63b76e7f4027ec About 7k on my swap now without a hickup. I daily drive mine, make 400+whp and used to break stock 280Z axles but I did the q45 swap and now its money. Drove it 70 miles to the drag strip last weekend, clicked off a few mid 11 passes and drove it home. You can drive this car like you stole it on a regular basis without issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 just turned 12,000 on my ls1 swap [rolled over while at speed at watkins glen today!] and no issues. my car has been driven at watkins glen, mid-ohio, daytona [drove back and forth -not trailered to all tracks from upstate ny] and no issues. 30 mpg highway, about 8mpg on the track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1noel Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 I have only autox'd mine once and taken to the drags once. I don't daily drive it (I use a truck for work), but I drive it daily if I possibly can. I would not hesitate to jump in it and drive it across country if I could. I drove it 1200 miles in one weekend last summer just because I had the opportunity. I have taken care of the car and performed regular maintainance for nearly 27 years now. It has all new wheel bearings, a good radiator/fan setup, and even working AC. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueshark123 Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 Reliability will always only be as good as the quality of the parts you buy, the quality of the work done on the install and quality of the maintenance done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff81 Posted June 3, 2009 Author Share Posted June 3, 2009 Thank you for all your input. The mechanic I am using is a little slow to get things done it seems but his work is high quality. I am glad to hear that I can make this work. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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