madkaw Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 I have been doing some searching and I am suprised to find so little info on such a common problem with these cars. Anyone want to share their experiences(or nightmares) when dealing with this type of rust issue. I am contemplating pulling the windshield myself, but it does look like a daunting task. I am also not having much luck finding a replacement glass-incase I bust mine. I don't believe I can repair the rust properly without actually removing the glass. It seems that removing th glass is probably the toughest part of this whole deal since they are glued in place-thanks nissan. I wouldn't hesitate if this was a replaceable seal, but cutting out the windshield sounds messy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zx 2by2 Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 im going to have to do mine soon... i just don't want to lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted June 18, 2009 Author Share Posted June 18, 2009 Well I did some calling around and found someone that will install a new windshield for 165$. So even if I break mine I won't feel too bad to pay someone 165$ to come and install a new one:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titus_RacerX Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 I have been doing some searching and I am suprised to find so little info on such a common problem with these cars. Anyone want to share their experiences(or nightmares) when dealing with this type of rust issue. I am contemplating pulling the windshield myself, but it does look like a daunting task. I am also not having much luck finding a replacement glass-incase I bust mine. I don't believe I can repair the rust properly without actually removing the glass. It seems that removing th glass is probably the toughest part of this whole deal since they are glued in place-thanks nissan. I wouldn't hesitate if this was a replaceable seal, but cutting out the windshield sounds messy. To remove, your local auto parts store has a tool. It's basically two handles connected to some fine piano wire. You cut the rubber moldings with the tool and the window comes out. You have to replace the rubber moulding anyway, so go for it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zx 2by2 Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 To remove, your local auto parts store has a tool. It's basically two handles connected to some fine piano wire. You cut the rubber moldings with the tool and the window comes out. You have to replace the rubber moulding anyway, so go for it! its the same think the really hot art teacher uses to cut clay.... my only issue is the plastic trim around the window... i could see those costing more than the window if damaged Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted June 18, 2009 Author Share Posted June 18, 2009 I'm not sure what you mean about the plastic trim-there is stainless trim. You can find memebers who are selling the trim reasonable, I bought a complete set for 15$. Now the trim is held in by clips that are on a molding that you have to order from Black Dragon or Nissan, your looking at 100$ for the pair-ouch!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islanddozer Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 I think he was talking about the windshield adhesive. There is mobile glass installers who go between car dealers. They are usally under $100. If you screw up your new windshield it will cost $400. Spending $200 is better than $400 and $100 to install. I have removed them but I bought the right tools to do so. I found that the rust doesn't appear under the windshield but arround. Your car may be different. How about a couple of pics where you are expierencing your problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted June 18, 2009 Author Share Posted June 18, 2009 I would like to think there is no rust under the sealed area, but I can't take that chance. The car does leak water at the base of the windshield(my best guess). I might find some pin holes when I remove the lower molding, but I would hate to go thru all this work and not fix everything. Like I said, i found someone to install a new windshield for 165$, so even if I break the original, it won't be too bad. I plan on removing the windshield and either sandblasting area or wire brushing the frame work and then coat with por-15 patch. The patch stuff should fill any pin holes and stop the rust at the same time. Hopefully the damage isn't bad enough that I will weld filling-but that can be done to. I will try to remember to take picture to document the carnage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 Well I did some calling around and found someone that will install a new windshield for 165$. So even if I break mine I won't feel too bad to pay someone 165$ to come and install a new one:)Do they carry new windshields? Just asking because it sounded like you couldn't find a place that sells new windshields in the first post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted June 18, 2009 Author Share Posted June 18, 2009 165$ was for a new windshield installed. If I could get some verification from other s130 owners that have done this, and that there was no rust found under the windshield seal, I might let it go and just clean around the windshield . Lord knows it would make this job easier. I need to get the lower molding off and start sanding and picking at it ,and see what I find. I am just trying to have all my ducks in a row incase of worst scenerio. I wonder what causes the rust in this location? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palosfv3 Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 The big problem with windshield R&R is the cutting into the paint with the removal tool or knife. This then gets turned up a notch if the tech does not properly repair the damaged paint. The pinch weld primer that is commonly used as a adhesive primer is not the correct paint repair material. Also be aware that windshield urethane should set at a minimum of 24hrs at 72 degrees fahrenheit and car should not be driven until the adhesive is cured. Every 5 degress of temp lower than 65 doubles the cure time and most windshield urethane will not cure below 50 degrees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted June 18, 2009 Author Share Posted June 18, 2009 Larry, Are you saying upon original installation the primer for the windshield urethane screws up the paint. It seems as many s130's that have this issue, that there is a common reason from the factory installation. Surely the car is painted and then the windshield is installed from the factory. Or is it the fact that the moldings trap water that causes corrosion under the moldings and slowly creeps out around the edges. I have aslo read up on the urethane and i realize the car will have to sit after installation-thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palosfv3 Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 There are many issues that can lead to a failure of this type . Poor initial design.( No water drainage path at the bottom of the window opening ) Adhesive technology of the day. When cars were painted at the plant most were painted by people . People on an assembly line get tired , lazy or a combination of both. I my early days in the shop the new cars came right off the car carrier into the paint shop and 90% had some refinishing done to them before delivery. It is not out of the question to assume that the inner edges of the windshield opening would be a little thin on the paint. Take this issue along with long term exposure to the elements and the accumulation of debris in the gaps between the windshield and the trim and its is understandable to find common failures of this type on a given model and area. Windshield primer doesnt screw up paint . It is a adhesion promoter used to provide a better surface for the urethane to bond to. The primer doesnt inhibit rust or moisture. When removing a windshield from any car damage to the paint is extremely difficult to avoid. All I'm saying is when a tech gets paid $50.00 to install a glass , they rarely take the time to repair the damaged paint properly before installing the glass and urethane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted June 18, 2009 Author Share Posted June 18, 2009 Sound logic Larry. If I repair the the rust areas I will be using por-15 to repair the rust. When I do the color, it will be after the windshield is installed. As of now, all the paint around the windshield is nothing but rust bubbles now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 A buddy of mine removed his '82ZXT windshield and TTops as part of a total paint job and had to weld in some patches in the windshield channels. He knew there was some rust, but not so much! My '83ZXT has some rust bubbling above the WS, so I am going to remove it and fix what I need to as part of a total paint job also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationwagonguy Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 The big problem with windshield R&R is the cutting into the paint with the removal tool or knife. This then gets turned up a notch if the tech does not properly repair the damaged paint. The pinch weld primer that is commonly used as a adhesive primer is not the correct paint repair material. Also be aware that windshield urethane should set at a minimum of 24hrs at 72 degrees fahrenheit and car should not be driven until the adhesive is cured. Every 5 degress of temp lower than 65 doubles the cure time and most windshield urethane will not cure below 50 degrees. If that's true, how do they repair windshields in the winter time? We had one put in at 20 degree farenheit and it never got above 50 for another 3 months. I'm just curious, not arguing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrismiller5157 Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 I have some pics of my orange 280zx witch had really bad rust on the ruff near the windshield area an i have the pics of the body work being done i will post them on the page either tonight or tomarow have to find the pics an what not an some info along with it. Thanks Chris M. 1981 280zx {coming to a city near you} 1983 280zx {wife's} Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palosfv3 Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 If that's true, how do they repair windshields in the winter time? We had one put in at 20 degree farenheit and it never got above 50 for another 3 months. I'm just curious, not arguing. You probably could have kicked that glass out after a day or two and it probably didnt harden for at least several weeks. If you ever attend an I-CAR structural training class this is a topic of discussion from time to time. Glass installed with urethane, in temps below 50, takes a long time to fully cure. The glass guys are courting a civil suit on late model windshield installs. The reason they sometimes get away in lower temps is the edges skin over and support the glass but the inner core of the bead will remain soft. In a new auto this is a serious issue as the windshield is used as both a stressed member ( Accounts for at least 30% of the strength of the body through the windshield pillars ) and as a support for the passenger airbag on some models.We have seen this at our shop. Still havent heard of any new urethane product that solve the low temp issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrismiller5157 Posted July 3, 2009 Share Posted July 3, 2009 http://s1009.photobucket.com/albums/af218/boostjunky/ here is some pics of what i did for the rust issue on my 280zx it wasnt hard to do, but i had a glass compant take my windshield out for me an put it back in.....also you may have a hard time finding the clips that you have to replace an the weather striping that will fit...i use one of the 350Z an cut it to fit....or the shop did should i say. Comments an feedback welcome:mrgreen: Chris M. 1981 280zx {being turboed at the moment} 1983 280zx {wifes} Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magnum380Z Posted July 3, 2009 Share Posted July 3, 2009 Is that all body filler above the windshield ? if its how long is that going to last ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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