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HybridZ

Progress on my insane VQ35HR 240Z project


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Why did you choose to use a corvette front suspension (as far as i can tell) but have a custom rear suspension made in lieu of corvette all around?

 

the corvette front suspension is a very clean double wishbone setup with very few packaging compromises. Compare it to the 350Z front arms and you'll know what I mean. So it was ideal to use and it also meant easy access to Corvette hub, brakes, and shocks. The Corvette rear suspension is almost the opposite- it's design seems very compromised for packaging issues (in order to minimize vertical space needed to leave room in the cabin. It's also very dependent on a large, relatively heavy subframe. It's not easy to modify or mount into a steel tube frame. In short, very few reasons to use it without distinct advantages to inherit. So when I went to look for an alternate plan, I found a basic design in a company called Team321. A large part of the appeal was the cool factor in a cantilever setup. Needless to say, my rear suspension is not packaging limited in most ways. It's wasteful in the space it occupies, but then again, so what- it's cool and technically does the job an adjustable double wishbone suspension should do.

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Mark,

 

As always with every new post your car absolutely floors me with the attention to detail you have put into it. I would love to know the name of that chemical polish and if it is accessable to a mere mortal, amature, hobbiest such as myself in reasonably sized bottles or industrial grande containers for large businesses?

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Mark,

 

As always with every new post your car absolutely floors me with the attention to detail you have put into it. I would love to know the name of that chemical polish and if it is accessable to a mere mortal, amature, hobbiest such as myself in reasonably sized bottles or industrial grande containers for large businesses?

 

It's sold by several companies. It's just called "aluminum brightener" and is an acid solution that etches the surface. I just scrub it on with some scotchbrite and rinse with water. It's sold at truck and RV places for cleaning aluminum trim, wheels, etc. It will destroy paint though. A few Auto Zone stores have it, but it's behind the counter. Some other auto parts stores may carry it too. This stuff is made by "Purple Power".

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  • 2 weeks later...

If anything it's going to be wierd how much like a 'normal' zed it's going to look. Fantastic stuff, cannot wait for more pics/vids. :)

 

Dave

 

oh yes! that's the point. On the outside I want it to look as normal as possible, only subtly updated details such as the wheels, stance, and flares. But look closer and you'll find something bespoke.

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working this week to get the car assembled. Right now we're trying to resolve the ugly pinched line that is created by the transition from the wide fenders to the stock-width airdam. We are using automotive clay to resolve the shape and then we'll do a thin layer of CF and bond it to the original part.

 

As you can see, we are still working to resolve the shape.

 

6898837368_3a73ff53e9_b.jpg

7044848955_806aa1891b_b.jpg

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Perhaps don't blend so high up the fender flare? I don't know, this certainly isn't my area of expertise. What you have is looking good, though the wheel arch radius is no longer smooth. I'm sure that's easy to fix in your CF overlay, but in my experience, Less is more. Less fill = smoother lines. You've already done so much more than I'd know how to so I'll just leave this as, Keep it up mark! it's looking awesome!

 

I can't wait to see how you do your wiring.

 

Phar

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Perhaps don't blend so high up the fender flare? I don't know, this certainly isn't my area of expertise. What you have is looking good, though the wheel arch radius is no longer smooth. I'm sure that's easy to fix in your CF overlay, but in my experience, Less is more. Less fill = smoother lines. You've already done so much more than I'd know how to so I'll just leave this as, Keep it up mark! it's looking awesome!

 

I can't wait to see how you do your wiring.

 

Phar

 

right. it's not yet smooth. The curve is kinked in a few areas. We are still working on it. We have to go so far up the arch because the original arch flares outward along the X axis (x being side-side dimension of the car) and not just an arch on the Y/Z axis. So the cut is high up to create a smooth transition not just Y/Z, but also X. The photo is somewhat misleading since you can only really perceive Y/Z.

 

And the clay is just for modelling. It won't be there in the final part.

 

mark

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Nice, yeah that transition is really much nicer. Are yougoing to recast it then, recreating the airdam, or how if it going to fit together? I know you're planning on repainting everything so blending to the CF shouldn't be a a big deal, but integrating with the airdam, I'm thinking may be problematic.

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Nice, yeah that transition is really much nicer. Are yougoing to recast it then, recreating the airdam, or how if it going to fit together? I know you're planning on repainting everything so blending to the CF shouldn't be a a big deal, but integrating with the airdam, I'm thinking may be problematic.

 

It goes something like this (pics)... cover the clay with CF. remove the clay underneath, fill in behind, create a part line.

 

6921550824_f95defc4be_b.jpg

6921550308_de80f4b8fb_b.jpg

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