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azcarbum was kind enough to import a set of Euro tails for me...           Thanks Brian!

Absolutely. Please deposit $19.95 in my paypal account         If you insist First fit into my 260...    

Finished the fan plate...                               Fan is '97 Volvo 850. Two speed, moves plenty of air, quiet, and covers the radiator nicely.

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Magnaflows arrived. 3" in/out, 5" O.D., with a 14" case length. Time to get busy with exhaust work...







Trying to get both of them in the tunnel. Cut down and tacked...







BMW put this honkin weld inside the collector flanges. Machined them out and picked up 30% free area. The header also has a weld bead inside, but it's not nearly as gnarly. A few minutes with a die grinder should take care of it.














I couldn't find a merge collector like I wanted, so I built one; dual 2" into single 3"...










All tacked up...










Plenty of framerail clearance...







Finished up...







It ends at about the middle of the diff. I'm leaving it that way until after it's running so I can decide how much more muffler I need, if any. There's room for one more in the stock location.

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I'm pretty sure you'll want another muffler though. ;)



I'm pretty sure you're right! The only experience I have with these is in a turbo application (with a resonator) so I'm shoot'n in the dark. My gut tells me they aren't going to provide enough attenuation. Hopefully we'll find out soon :wink:

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Got a tip from a member on Bimmer Forums that Bimmerworld is capable of EWSII deletes on OBDII ECU's. So I gave them a jingle to confirm. I was told it was car dependent (no go for some 328's), but yes they can flash E36 M3's. The price is pretty fair as well, at $200. You'll need to give them a call for your specific ECU/DME.


That sure simplifies the use of OBDII electronics!

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  • 3 weeks later...
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First, an apology for the cell phone pics. My DSLR battery charger has been AWOL for a few weeks and I know, just as soon as I buy a replacement, it'll reappear. I'd really like it to surface BEFORE then :wink:


12 lb single-mass flywheel and new (stock M3) clutch arrived...










As did an LC1. I've used the G5 gauge in the past and it works nicely when fitted to the stock clock location...







Made plugs for the air injection system...










Re-routed the clutch hydraulics to the drivers side. This opened up a nice spot to run the AN/Pushloc converted fuel supply line. I'm running the fuel rail in dead-head mode and abandoning the return line. BMW did this electronically- sort of... the system is run in recirculation mode for 20 seconds after start up, after which a solenoid switches to non-recirc.







Lokar throttle cable is an easy fit and nearly a straight shot...







Unbolted the stock heater supply elbow (pointing the wrong direction) and screwed in a barb fitting. I wouldn't do this again. What I didn't realize at the time is there is a pipe press-fitted into the head to create that water jacket. I *thought* it was cast in. I discovered this shortly after drilling this for 1/2" NPT. I stopped before going far enough to become a problem, fortunately. There is enough room for a couple of other choices, but this one is done :wink:









Radiator hoses, air filter, and a few misc chores are also checked off the list. A note on the air filter: I have a few different ideas for the intake. They are all either involved or expensive, so this will serve the purpose... for now.




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Hey Ron, did you do an OBD-1 swap?


Nope. Sticking with Wolf.



You've got the M50 intake, just wondering if you have the M50 injectors and fuel rail and ECU?


I have both manifolds and both rails. I'll be using the M50 manifold with S52 injectors. Some of the info below is for you, and some is for everyone else. You'll know what to skip...


The S52 manifold that came on the '96-'99 M3's have *much* smaller runners and a slightly smaller plenum than the M50 manifolds. According to bmw-m.net, a flow bench showed an average of 46% greater flow per cylinder. It may sound like overkill, but keep in mind the M50 manifold was original equipment on '95 M3's. Torque peak was @ 4250 on 3.0 liters. With the later/smaller/OBDII manifold, torque peak comes in at 3800 on 3.2 liters.


It's a popular swap. Mostly inexpensive, and the HP claims range from 10 to 25 on otherwise stock motors.







Runner difference is very visible...










As implied, you trade some bottom end power for top end. Since this car will be roughly 700 lbs lighter, geared slightly lower, with a more aggressive exhaust than the donor M3 it came from, I don't feel it's a misdirected step.


Where it is pertinent to my Z... In the picture below, you see the S52 manifold, rail, and it's proximity to the hood latch. With the poly engine mounts, this is plenty of clearance...







But, have a look at the next picture. The M50 manifold raises the injectors (and concurrently the rail) approximately 1"...








There definitely isn't room for that. However, the M50 manifold is fitted with a shorter rail (rectangular instead of square). It's a bit closer to the latch, but still doable with poly mounts.


In short, use a matching rail... S52 rail with S52 manifold. M50 rail with M50 manifold.


A couple of additional notes...


(1) The rail mounts are in slightly different locations and will require small offset plates if you mix them.

(2) The S52 rail has a Schrader valve built-in and no pressure regulator. The M50 has a built-in regulator, but no Schrader.

(3) The M50 conversion is not a direct bolt on. There are no provisions for the air/oil separator and the ancillary plumbing is very different.



Also, isn't there an HFM that's suppose to go inbetween the filter and the throttle body?


Yes... if you use BMW's EFI. Most aftermarket EMS's allow you to use an alternate load device. In the case of Wolf, I can use just about any load sensor available, ie AFM, MAF, TPS, or MAP. This installation will be MAP based.

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The OE water plumbing under the intake is a goofy looking thing and it doesn't fit it's new home so well...







I deleted the throttle-body heat, relocated the heater return, and eliminated the expansion tank. The cooling system retains a constant high-point bleed and bypass (small hose running to the top of the radiator), but expansion is now handled by a traditional recovery tank ('89 Mazda B2200)...











The Datsun clutch MC is too small to work with the BMW clutch. The BMW master is 3/4" but it has different pedal leverage. A quick phone call to Pegasus and...









The Tilton 74 series MC has the same bolt pattern as the Datsun, but it requires a couple small mods to work... shorten the rod a touch, tweak the hard-line a smidge, and install an SAE flare nut.


Unfortunately I blew the math. It functions... stiffly. A 1" MC is bigger than it needs to be. I'll have to back up and re-run the numbers, but for now, it'll get the car driving.


So... the Great Pumpkin is officially off the jack-stands until after start up. Only three projects left on the to-do list... chassis electrical, EFI, and the M50 intake conversion.

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Good job on tidying everything up Ron. A very neat installation and the BMW engine looks like it's meant to be there!


I think I will have a clutch master cylinder problem of a different variety.....because we sit on the correct side of the car Im pretty sure the canted over engine will cause interference with the back of the cylinder head and the clutch master cylinder. Wont know for sure until I get it installed but Im pretty sure I will need to relocate the master cylinder to under the dash.

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  • 3 weeks later...
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I replaced the clutch MC with a 13/16" model. I was planning on waiting until after start up, but it was haunting me. Pedal effort is firm, but reasonable. More like a C4 than an M3 :wink: I think a 3/4" MC would work (15% less effort) but I think it would be approaching the minimum travel limit. The Datsun pedal has roughly 20% less travel than the BMW, and that's not helping matters.


Another item to check off is the water temp sender. There really isn't a good place for it. I came up with an easy, but less than ideal solution. I used a stock Z sender (BMW sender is a very different range), the BMW hose barb (screws into the head) and a 16mm nut (the nut from the diff strap is the right size and pitch). Machined a sleeve with a tapered seat and welded it together...
















It's in contact with the water, but not exposed to water FLOW. I'm expecting this to slow the gauge down some. Since the water temp sensor is in close proximity and Wolf will report the numbers real-time, I'll get a good feel of how much I can trust it. If it proves to be unreasonable, there is a plan B... the port in the head was originally used to supply water to the throttle body, and returned water to the water manifold just below it. It wouldn't be difficult to create a similar path with the temp sender in between, exposing the sender to water flow. I'm trying to avoid doing this because all of this water then bypasses the radiator. Or, I may just cowboy up, use the BMW sender, and do some electronic work.


Ordered a new OE oil pressure sender from Jordan at Lithia Nissan. BMW used an oil pressure switch with 12mm x 1.5 threads and a copper gasket. I machined a bolt with matching threads, and tapped 1/8" NPT threads into the head...










Installed the G5...







And when I wasn't looking, BRAAP was kind enough to install an airbag for me (he probably thinks I need it)...







On a tangent, I made another set of engine mounts for a fellow enthusiast. He'll be doing some fitment testing on his car to see what else we run into...




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