Jump to content
HybridZ

AZC vs. Ground control coilvers & camber plates


Recommended Posts

Can't decide. Just got off the phone with Ground control. They would do 399 for the coilvers, $520 for tokico illuminas, and 599 for adj camber plates. so $1520 for everything. I've had ground controls before (for the e30, not the z).

 

AZC kit is $1600. Shocks have more finite adjustment. A possible advantage here is I will be getting brakes from them front and back (4 piston 12.2" up front. Can't afford the 6 pot or 13") so maybe this would help me pricewise?

 

I did a search and didn't find anything

 

btw I haven't decided on spring rates/sways yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another big point are the camber plates. I know the AZC camber plates will have more adjustability. Ground control said they can achieve 2-2.5" of additional negative camber.

 

AZC

camberdone2.jpg

 

Ground-Control

CCPZ_dp.jpg

 

I don't have a welder, and while I did take a class in college the AZC plates are something I would definitely have to have someone else do. That factors in additional cost, I would assume ~3-400. I also am trying to avoid spraying my engine bay if I can, as it's the original paint and has a bit cool factor. Not a big factor by any means though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks to me like the GC has more adjustment, look how the slot goes closer to the center of the vehicle when it's installed. It also has a needle bearing that isolates the monoball from the weight of the vehicle, which is a pretty big difference functionally.

 

Getting the rear camber plates square with the control arm is pretty crucial too if you're welding them in. Bolt in plates don't have a lot of room to spare so you really can't screw it up in terms of placement.

 

In terms of shocks I think you're comparing apples and oranges. The proper comparison would be with GC's Advanced Design shocks, and that would add probably $900 to the GC bill, but they are a lot better than the Tokico Illuminas.

 

Here are some other threads with good info:

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105666

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=150039

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35036

 

This thread should really be in the brakes/wheels/suspension/chassis forum.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A big thing is the AZ's are weld in, while the GC's bolt in. Usually the max camber is limited by the top hat of the coilover hitting the inside of the strut tower, regardless of how much slot is remaining.

 

jt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just installed the GC front camber plates. Piece of cake!

 

6-28-09018.jpg

 

6-28-09033.jpg

 

7-4-09014.jpg

 

6-28-09031.jpg

 

7-18-09017.jpg

 

I don't like the hardware supplied with it. Hex bolts OK for camber adjustment but I am still looking for a more finished looking fastener for the plate/tower. Otherwise...:icon14:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A big thing is the AZ's are weld in, while the GC's bolt in. Usually the max camber is limited by the top hat of the coilover hitting the inside of the strut tower, regardless of how much slot is remaining.

The GC's can go all the way in on my car with 2.5" ID springs. If the slot is longer one would figure that equates to more adjustment.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

About this far: http://videos.streetfire.net/video/2000-autox-indisde-and-outside-I-think-my_8051.htm

 

That's about 1" off the bumpstops. It isn't driveable on the street at that height but I put it there when I was autoxing and then cranked the shocks up to try and keep it off the bumpstops. Probably not the smartest idea...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

how does the tokico hts compare to the azc shock? I'm reading that the hts is rather lacking in range on rebound. sounds on par with adjustability though. comments?

 

Ideally you'd need a dyno plot of the shock and from that you can calculate the damping coefficient based on your unsprung weight.

 

Cary

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How would it not be driveable on the street? Too stiff to cause discomfort? What spring rates where you running? What struts did you run?

I had the WRONG springs and shocks for running that height. To run that height properly you need really insanely stiff springs, and it would still be completely undriveable on the street. Why? Because you couldn't get in or out of driveways, you'd high center on speed bumps that were 3" tall, might even hit the chassis on the ground if you hit a big enough pothole. I did that at that autox venue because it was totally flat concrete.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...