jeffp Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 Hi guys, I have the gasket getting machined along with some block work. I decided to make the changes in the basic HKS (Nismo) gasket to improve the cooling of the engine. When the gasket is completed I will send it out for copy. The changes in the part will not affect how it is put on a stock block, and work with a modified block. I am not going to talk to much about the block mods, as I am still doing the R&D to make sure there is an improvement and I'm not just pissing into the wind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted August 29, 2009 Share Posted August 29, 2009 Hey jeffp any idea on how long till we can buy this gasket? My MLS gasket let go and i need to replace it. Its just been on and off to many times. Well keep us updated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junglist Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 Hi guys, I have the gasket getting machined along with some block work. I decided to make the changes in the basic HKS (Nismo) gasket to improve the cooling of the engine. When the gasket is completed I will send it out for copy. The changes in the part will not affect how it is put on a stock block, and work with a modified block.I am not going to talk to much about the block mods, as I am still doing the R&D to make sure there is an improvement and I'm not just pissing into the wind. Im excited to see the results from this. It will be great to have a well engineered MLS gasket available again from the L engines that possibly won't cost as much as the Kameari gaskets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted September 5, 2009 Author Share Posted September 5, 2009 (edited) Well, this sucks. First fit the felpro/O-ring combo and had coolant leaking out the passenger side of the head/block connection at cylinder #2. Tore it down, measured the o-rings at 0.017" proud of the deck. My research combined with posts here indicates the desirable crush is 0.006"-0.013". Put in the new Ishino head gasket, with no O-rings in place. Coolant leaking out of the same side next to #4. @#$%^*(#$^#@$&*#@!!!! I'm kindof at a loss... the block and head were both decked... ideas welcome. Edited September 5, 2009 by Drax240z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted September 5, 2009 Share Posted September 5, 2009 Are you sure it's the gasket. Could be a core plug leaking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted September 5, 2009 Author Share Posted September 5, 2009 I can see it pretty clearly, coolant seeping out of the headgasket in the #4 cylinder area on the passenger side. Unobstructed view. I'll be pulling the head again tomorrow and checking everything... again. I've never had an engine build go so badly as this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted September 5, 2009 Share Posted September 5, 2009 How are you torquing the head down? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
softopz Posted September 5, 2009 Share Posted September 5, 2009 Whats the deal with copper gaskets are they any good? Dont mean to get off your subject but as I was reading I had the same thoughts as 1fastz. I guess whoever decked it didnt do a good enough job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted September 5, 2009 Share Posted September 5, 2009 What's that stuff, Prussian blue? Put the head on with out gasket, check for gaps. Dude, so sucks! Your sitting on one of those problems, brand new gaskets suck?, or machine work sucks, both are new!!! One of the worse problems. This assumes you actually put in any or all of the head bolts, and torqued any or all of the bolts;) or that you did not bottom out the bolts, or hydraulic them, etc... Or you put on the head gasket correctly, not sideways or any thing;). Trying to add levity since 05. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted September 5, 2009 Author Share Posted September 5, 2009 There are zero head bolts installed and none torqued down. However, I've got all the ARP head studs installed. torqued 20-40-60ft-lbs, using the ARP supplied lube. Studs are oiled and installed by hand into the block, until just before they bottom. All the hardware is new, they ARE the correct studs, length has been verified to be correct. (ie: nuts are not bottoming on the threads, preventing proper tightening) The head will be coming off again this morning, I'm going to recheck everything with a more critical eye this time around. I did not double check the work of the machine shops, and given the history of this stuff, I have enough reason to question whether the work was done well... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted September 6, 2009 Share Posted September 6, 2009 Looking forward too reading what you find. May the force be with you. Or maybe pressure;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted September 6, 2009 Author Share Posted September 6, 2009 What I found was not much. Best guess is that the O-ring grooves were machined too far from the cylinder bore, and too close to the coolant passages, causing the coolant passages to not seal very well. Added a bunch of copper high-tack to the gasket, put a finger smear of RTV around each coolant passage (and I mean a tiny smear) and all is well this time around. Block was flat. Head was flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted September 6, 2009 Share Posted September 6, 2009 Hmmm...What kind of RTV did you use? RTV and head gaskets make me cringe. There is however a high temp copper RTV that might do well in this situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted September 6, 2009 Author Share Posted September 6, 2009 (edited) High temp copper RTV. Remember, this is just a smear around the coolant passages, I'm not trying to compensate for warpage or anything like that. The cylinders (ie: where the pressure is) will seal very well without the RTV. I am trying to seal a 13psi passage that has a 0.001"-0.002" gap at worst... it won't take much. If it's a problem this time around, last resort is tearing down a $5000 bottom end and starting with a new block. Edited September 6, 2009 by Drax240z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted September 6, 2009 Share Posted September 6, 2009 Ok, sounds like you've got it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Not saying felpro rocks or anything, however, they have lines of rtv drawn on there head gaskets, and it not high temp copper. Drax, hope everything holds up for ya:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted September 7, 2009 Author Share Posted September 7, 2009 Actually I am pretty sure the felpro RTV is high temp copper. Same colour anyway! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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