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HybridZ

Turbo LS1 240z Build


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Go with the AZ Zcar parts, you'll be much happier in the end.

 

With the amount of power you're going to be making it you'll have piece of mind when stomping the WOAH pedal. Don't sweat the shimming, just have the rotors turned (slightly) after installing the hats on them, I had no problem with mine.

 

I have run the 4 lug and the 5 lug in both 12.2 and 13.06 and I would say dont waste your time on the 300ZX or Toyota calipers. The Wilwoods weigh WAY less, look and work WAY better. Agreed, you will be much happier in the end. I can tell you from experience that you will love your AZC Wilwood brakes.

 

I cant believe you can run the exhaust that close to the coilpacks, are you sure they can handle that much heat?

 

breathercan1.jpg

 

Man looking at this photo makes me wonder if there was any way you could exit the (pressurized) side of the turbo and go to the drivers side of the car to the IC then exit the IC and go straight to the throttle body seems like less criss crossing tubes but Im not standing there.

bov1.jpg

 

On this photo below are you sure that black tyvec will hold up to being so close to the exhaust manifold? Take no chances with the WG and BOV plumbing, I did mine in hard stainless line where it was close to the exhaust manifold. Ask me why? Ok Ill tell you, I already lost a motor to melted/failed WG plumbing.

bov2.jpg

 

 

All I can say is WOW that exhaust is close to plastic parts. Hope they dont melt, you can still get some more exhaust wrap, or make some swanky heat shield. Maybe you already have it taken care of, and I didn't see the photo.

waterlines2.jpg

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I have run the 4 lug and the 5 lug in both 12.2 and 13.06 and I would say dont waste your time on the 300ZX or Toyota calipers. The Wilwoods weigh WAY less, look and work WAY better. Agreed, you will be much happier in the end. I can tell you from experience that you will love your AZC Wilwood brakes.

 

Thanks for the info.

 

I cant believe you can run the exhaust that close to the coilpacks, are you sure they can handle that much heat?

 

I am concerned with the coil packs. I'm contemplating relocating the coils on that side. I had though about doing an additional heat sheild but there isn't alot of room.

 

 

Man looking at this photo makes me wonder if there was any way you could exit the (pressurized) side of the turbo and go to the drivers side of the car to the IC then exit the IC and go straight to the throttle body seems like less criss crossing tubes but Im not standing there.

 

My logic in routing the piping was to keep the hot pressurized air near the hotter part of the engine bay and the cooled off air away from the exhaust. That is why I ran the only steel pipe (because of the bov flange) on that side of the car. The rest of the system is aluminum. If I went straight back it would go directly over the turbine housing.

 

On this photo below are you sure that black tyvec will hold up to being so close to the exhaust manifold? Take no chances with the WG and BOV plumbing, I did mine in hard stainless line where it was close to the exhaust manifold. Ask me why? Ok Ill tell you, I already lost a motor to melted/failed WG plumbing.

 

I talked to the techs at my local shop Action Hose and they assured me it would be okay. I agree and my still change this out too. It has atleast 2 inches from the header and exhaust and is anchord so that it shouldn't move.

 

All I can say is WOW that exhaust is close to plastic parts. Hope they dont melt, you can still get some more exhaust wrap, or make some swanky heat shield. Maybe you already have it taken care of, and I didn't see the photo.

 

Not sure which plastic parts you are talking about. Nothing is actually touching the hot parts. The engine bay is cramped for sure and I know heat is going to be a problem. Thanks for all your input!

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Thanks everyone.

 

I got the intercooler and piping back on and they look great. I fill the coolant, got the last few wires inside the car hooked up. I also had some fun with sheet metel. I made a battery box to hold my Odyssey PC680 battery and some air diverters in the front grill area.

 

batterybox.jpg

 

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Oh yeah.. It Runs

 

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/Turbo-LS1-LQ4-240z_716451.htm

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She is getting SO pretttttyyyyy! Dyno numbers soon I hope??!!

 

It will definitely be seeing the dyno. I'm hoping in a week or so. I want to get a conservative street tune and some miles on the motor first.

 

I love the build man. Car looks sick! I'm hopefully going to be getting into a Z car sometime soon, and it's going to get nothing other than an LS motor. :mrgreen:

 

Awesome, good luck.

 

Awesome dude!!! How do you like the EMS?

 

So far so good. I really liked it on my integra.

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  • 1 month later...

reamo04: It is the low profile elbow. There are 3 types normal, low, ultra low.

 

jc052685 I'm hosting a dyno day on feb 6th and hope to put it on the rollers then.

 

now for an update:

 

I started rerouting the wiring in the engine bay to avoid heat and clean up the appearance. Hear are some before and after pictures.

 

before

fancontrollerold.jpg

after

Resized to 98% (was 800 x 600) - Click image to enlargefancontroller.jpg

 

 

before

Resized to 98% (was 800 x 600) - Click image to enlargeemptybay.jpg

 

after

Resized to 98% (was 800 x 600) - Click image to enlargeharnesstuck.jpg

 

 

The transmission was leaking so I had the guys a Mikes Transmission 505-797-9444 go threw it. They found bad seals, damaged pump gear, and the cause of most of it was the converter wasn't fitting properly. The pilot on the converter was modified and fits like a glove now. The trans looks great. I can't wait to take it for spin. I also go the headers wrapped and put back in along with a transmission scatter shield and drive shaft loop.

Resized to 98% (was 800 x 600) - Click image to enlargeconverter.jpg

 

headerwrap.jpg

Resized to 98% (was 800 x 600) - Click image to enlargedloop.jpg

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