Drums of DOOM!

[Avernier]

in that case the bias on my setup would be perfect...

[JeffGarcia77]

Have you tried hiring "Men Who Stare at Drums"? Maybe they can make your drums just fall off.

 

Seriously speaking, I had to cut mine off with a cutoff wheel (made a square cut, with the square being slightly larger than the hub). After pulling the major part of the drum off, I used a chisel to separate the flat part of the drum from the hub (seriously corroded together).

 

I was able to make a homemade puller to get the first (driver's side) drum off. I applied a hell of a lot of force with the "puller", then beat on the edge of the drum from the back side. After a few very hard whacks, the drum and puller went flying clear across the two-car garage I was working in. Also, be careful with metal shards breaking off when you're beating metal with metal.

 

Before you put your new or used drums on, wirebrush the surfaces thoroughly to remove rust, then apply a VERY thin (barely there) layer of anti-sieze compound. You don't want anti-sieze slinging out and getting on your drum friction surfaces.

 

Good Luck!

[LLave]

have you tried heating them with a torch?

[mi240z]

Cut them off. Im converting to disc and have the old drums. Im located in east oakland. Call me at 510 717 0407

[Michael]

How did this saga end up concluding?

 

I am in a similar, but less severe situation... both rear drums are heavily dragging, so both rear wheels are very difficult to spin, making the car tough to push (1978 280Z). The cause is 2 years of immobile storage in a drafty, humid garage.

[Jesse OBrien]

It's still going on, actually. Yesterday I took a big, heavy hammer to one side after removing it from the car, and broke off the outer rim of most of one. I'll post pics soon. I've been busy with work and a few other projects, and haven't spent as much time as I really should have on the Z. I'll be making more time for it now, though. Expect pics tonight.

[19762802+2]

Well I had trouble getting the drums off my car also and what I ending up doing was getting a wide drill bit and in the center part of the drum where it is steel and has four "nubs". What I did was drill indentations all around that part in the aluminum of the Drum make sure you do not drill all the way through or your it will weaken the stub axle face. After I drilled indentations all the way around I took a hammer and a crowbar and whacked at it until it broke off. When making the indentations make sure you get through the aluminum but don't drill to far through the steel you will be able to tell the difference when drilling when you get to the steel.

 

when doing this it will bend the sheetmetal backing on the dust plate but its not that bad and depending on how well you do it the less damage you will cause.

[Rimal310]

sawsalled everything from one side of the hub and then pried it off with a crowbar.

 

it was actually a lot of fun! haha

[iHeartTouge]

Hmm... internet rumour says spraying hydrocarbon propellant aerosol (deoderant, flyspray, any good potato gun stuff) into the drum body via the hole to adjust the star wheel, then stuffing a match in there, will remove the drums at greater or lesser velocity dependant on volume of vapourous hydrocarbon.

 

Never done it myself, but if you do it, have someone film it

 

i might try this out this weekend. i doubt it will work but its worth a shot, and might be fun! i'll post up a crappy cell phone quality video since thats all i got camera wise.

[19762802+2]

sawsalled everything from one side of the hub and then pried it off with a crowbar.

 

it was actually a lot of fun! haha

 

ah why didn't I think of that, that sounds a lot faster and easier.

[iHeartTouge]

Hmm... internet rumour says spraying hydrocarbon propellant aerosol (deoderant, flyspray, any good potato gun stuff) into the drum body via the hole to adjust the star wheel, then stuffing a match in there, will remove the drums at greater or lesser velocity dependant on volume of vapourous hydrocarbon.

 

Never done it myself, but if you do it, have someone film it

 

so i tried this using brake cleaner. it didnt work as expected . a small fire was the only result

[MAG58]

so i tried this using brake cleaner. it didnt work as expected . a small fire was the only result

 

That's depressing. Did you implement a BFH to aid in the explosive un-seating process?

[hoov100]

Have you tried adjusting the start wheel and making sure the ebrake cables arent frozen?

[iHeartTouge]

That's depressing. Did you implement a BFH to aid in the explosive un-seating process?

 

i did not. after the unsatisfying fire ball... i went back inside.

[Jesse OBrien]

One drum off, I couldn't pick it up. I had to sweep and vacuum it. I'll get some pics.

 

By the way, the car's up for sale if anybody can take it to a good home sometime soon.

[letitsnow]

so i tried this using brake cleaner. it didnt work as expected . a small fire was the only result

 

Brake cleaner isn't nearly flammable enough. I doubt there's enough volume behind the drum to make an explosion big enough to knock it off anyhow.

[Heathhh]

After a week, no pictures yet?!

[Jesse OBrien]

No, definitely no pictures. I had been trying to sell the car for nearly a month, nobody wanted it even when I dropped the price to $1k, so it's either parted out or crushed now.

[PHANTOM-POWER]

we tapped the lugs in, then hit it with a BIG hammer, and after that the drums practically fell off.

 

Hi, I just removed the drums on my z over the week end.

 

What I did was, knock the wheel studs in all the way, as instructed above credit to Lucifersam for the idea.

 

Then I used a hammer to tap around the front outside edge of the drum, until I could see a small gap starting to form about half way inside the hole, that the wheel studs used to be located in.

 

When this line formed I sprayed some penetrating oil in the gaps, while rotating the drum, and left it for a few hours.

 

I then came back and tapped the drum off from the back edge of the fins, straight in an outward direction making sure to tap on opposite sides of the drum for each whack.

 

Hope it helps,

Ahmed.

BTW. It's a Canadian car no one took care of, so you can imagine the rust.

[Jesse OBrien]

Turns out I still have the car, so I'll probably ship it back to myself sometime before winter.

 

What I did was, knock the wheel studs in all the way, as instructed above credit to Lucifersam for the idea.

 

Then I used a hammer to tap around the front outside edge of the drum, until I could see a small gap starting to form about half way inside the hole, that the wheel studs used to be located in.

 

When this line formed I sprayed some penetrating oil in the gaps, while rotating the drum, and left it for a few hours.

 

I then came back and tapped the drum off from the back edge of the fins, straight in an outward direction making sure to tap on opposite sides of the drum for each whack.

 

Hope it helps,

Ahmed.

BTW. It's a Canadian car no one took care of, so you can imagine the rust.

 

It sounds like you didn't read the history of these drums. Tapping with anything on these doesn't work. The whole drums sat in a vat of penetrating oil for 3 days, and I slammed them with a hand sledge every few hours. I'm going to have to just replace the rear LCA's completely once I have the car back. There are no fins, and the outer rim of each drum is completely ripped off. The center hub is wedged and rusted on well enough that it might as well be welded. There is no gap anywhere, they're just frozen. I'll get some pictures when I have them back, so you can see exactly what I mean.