crazyoctopus Posted August 16, 2010 Author Share Posted August 16, 2010 what I gots... what I need. -NA B230 block and a manual transmission bellhousing. -Ford T-5 transmission -Wiring harness - ECU and EZK -Valve Springs -Tensioner -Fuel pump Then it is going to just be a matter of making it all work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted August 16, 2010 Author Share Posted August 16, 2010 Open Header night at "Hot Summer Nights" in Fallbrook, These were taken after I drove back to the house. very loud and very fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted August 16, 2010 Author Share Posted August 16, 2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneStarS30Z Posted August 16, 2010 Share Posted August 16, 2010 How bad does the neighborhood hate you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stivva Posted September 1, 2010 Share Posted September 1, 2010 Congrats on the speedhunters photo in the classics rides feature Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted September 1, 2010 Author Share Posted September 1, 2010 (edited) thanks, I was pretty stoked to see it make it on the last round! The car was put on jackstands a couple of days ago and today I finally got around to pulling the engine and chassis wiring harness out. Now it is time to order all of the switches and turn that wiring diagram I made into a reality. Edited September 1, 2010 by crazyoctopus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted September 7, 2010 Author Share Posted September 7, 2010 Very successful weekend at the junkyard; I was able to pick up what looks to be a recently rebuilt 94 b230, 15g turbo, alternator ford T5 transmission, wiring harness with ECU and EZK, and a 960 Throttle body. All that is left is the bell housing and LH 2.4 flywheel, and my swap is complete. Total spent on these items is about $400; which is still cheaper than a twin cam KA without a tranny. boom. Here are some pictures. And yeah we went from having zero turbos to having 5; (R to L) 15g, 2 garret t3s, CT26, and a 13g. also did some math to figure out if it is still cheaper to buy all of the wire myself, rather than to buy an ez-wiring kit, it is $80 vs $150. So that will definitely be happening soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johndaniel.b.coffin Posted September 7, 2010 Share Posted September 7, 2010 Im so used to Facebook, Im still looking for the "like" button. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MREDDLE Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 I look forward to this swap. I love the CT26, it would be a monster on that motor. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted September 8, 2010 Author Share Posted September 8, 2010 ct26 is going on my firend's jag or his next project if he sells it. I am going to be using the 15g Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted October 8, 2010 Author Share Posted October 8, 2010 Engine Wiring harness tear down, and rebuild Got around to swapping to the ford vs1632 valve springs on the 16v Volvo head, also did a bit of cleaning while everything was out. checking for leaks in the valves, and soaking the grime... the tool before Spring compressed and spring retainers out just sitting there 1/4th of the way done valves out, and a bit of cleaning valves cleaned and installed 3/4ths done how to install ford vs1632 valve springs into a 16v volvo head All done Then tonight I pulled my engine and tranny in a little less than an hour for the weekend sale, I am pretty stoked. Now I am just waiting on the valve releif tool to be available so that I can put the whole engine together and go for the test fitting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meph Posted October 8, 2010 Share Posted October 8, 2010 cant wait to see how it turns out, love the engine choice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxxpatsabxxx Posted October 17, 2010 Share Posted October 17, 2010 hey octo, your car has come a long way. post up some new info, i cant wait to see that new engine in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted October 18, 2010 Author Share Posted October 18, 2010 I want to get it in as well! I am just waiting on the piston valve relief tool to get in so that I can finally put the engine together and start test fitting it in the car. If all goes well the engine should be put together before next month, and hopefully on the ground and running before the year is out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparky Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 Nice choice! I've got two B234 heads waiting in the shop for a swap into a P1800. What are you going to do for ignition? Will you be running the head in the back of the distributor or the block mounted dizzy from the B230? I've had this engine and head for years and years (almost 6 total) when I was doing research years ago I came across some conflicting info on the building of these engines, if you could post all the work your doing or a link to a relevant guide that would be awesome. looking forward to seeing it complete! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted October 18, 2010 Author Share Posted October 18, 2010 I am going to be using the rear mounted dizzy. I chose to do this because the '94 b230 block that I pulled came out of a 740, instead of a 240 with a front mounted dizzy. The only downside to doing this is that I will not be able to mount the engine (hypothetically right now as I have yet to test fit it) as far back in the engine bay as possible. The upside to doing this is that I dont have to buy a modified short dizzy and crab style cap to fit under the head, and if I would ever have to replace the dizzy I would be forced to remove the head in order to do so. Since I have the massive engine cavity that is the 240z, I wasnt too worried about it, and it is a spot that i can save some money on. I am going with the stock LH2.4 ECU and EZK (ign computer) out of a '92 940 turbo, picture of the harness a couple posts up. it took a bit of time but I was able to find a ECU and EZK pin-out list and started to figure out what i needed and what couple be removed from the harness, and with just that I lost about 5-10 lbs of wire and sensors. There is still more work to be done on the harness, but I cant start that until I have the engine placed in the engine bay to see what i can shorten and what I have to lengthen. I will probably be running the stock maps until I can get my hands on an ECU & EZK chipset. I was really thinking about going with MS, but the cost difference was too great ($60 vs $300+dyno time). I am going to be using the stock heavy as hell dogbowl flywheel until I can test if the stock crank trigger can be moved to the crank pulley, many on TB say that it should work, but no one has ever tried it. The upside to having mounted at the front would be the availability to use a significantly lighter flywheel, and still retain the use of the stock ECU & EZK. Yeah I have been doing quite a bit of research on the pros/cons of going with a 16v head over the stock 8v head, and it really came down to the fact that I have a Volvo tuner, YoshiFAb, on hand that I can call up or drive over to ask him questions on how to install certain things on the engine bay. It is a higher flowing head designed by cosworth, and anything that you can do to an 8v to make it strong/better will be exponentially better on the 16v. In the volvo community, turbobricks.com, the debate is still rampant of 8v vs 16v just like the debate of chipping vs standalones, and LH2.2 vs LH2.4 vs LH3.1; and from what I can tell it usually comes down to how much time/money do you want to invest. here are a few links that have helped me out regarding the 16v http://people.physics.anu.edu.au/~amh110/16V_Folder/16_valve_turbo_volvo.htm http://www.yoshifab.com/store/images/16v%20head%20swap.htm http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=31900 The last photo montage that I did was swapping the Ford valve springs over, the next will be the valve relief cut into the pistons, and then it will be the complete engine assembly; so don't worry there will be more than enough photos to answer most questions about this build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparky Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 Thanks for the links, a lot of the info wasn't really out there when I first started this process so it's nice to see things coming together. From the looks of things it sounds like a easy swap beyond cutting the piston tops, as soon as I get my other project up and running I'll be diving head first into the 1800..DOHC with sidedrafts?! yes please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted October 21, 2010 Author Share Posted October 21, 2010 Since today was quite a nice overcast day I figured that before the rain picks up again I should fab a new hatch window. Hatch Lexan by crazyoctopus, on Flickr Hatch Lexan by crazyoctopus, on Flickr Hatch Lexan by crazyoctopus, on Flickr It didn't cost me a dime, actually I made money on installing it, as I sold the old glass for $100 and this only cost me $50. Total weight savings of 5lbs, so it really wasn't worth it, but hey it is still 5lbs. Also after removing the not so magical 3MM blue masking tape it took some paint off as well, so it looks like I am going to have to re-paint the rear hatch. The question now becomes re-paint it satin black, or change it to Pac-Man yellow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsun723 Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 Keep it satin. Looking good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted October 22, 2010 Author Share Posted October 22, 2010 The Valve relief valve finally came in and I had a chance to take photos and document the process to make future users of the tool's life a bit easier. Start with the block, all dirty and grimy. then clean the pistons off to insure a great seat of the drill and why not? Then make sure that you have everything needed After setting the pistons at their highest and lowest points tape off the top of the block with your favorite tape; this eases cleanup and protects the oil and coolant holes from collecting unwanted metal shavings Cut some slits so that you can bolt in the tool and tighten down the bolts Check to make sure that the proper depth is met Tighten your favorite drill to the valve relief drill The key to drilling the reliefs is that you go slowly (low rpm) and let the drill do all the work; i.e. do not put much, or any, downward force on the drill. Rinse and repeat that on all of the bits. After completion remove the tool and look at the damage you have done Put just the bolts back in to make sure that none of the shavings get into them, and brush them off Remove the tape to reveal your relived piston (eh eh; get it, get it? it is relieved because it wont get slapped by a valve! bah!) Now re-tape the now exposed cylinder to protect it from the subsequent drilling. After that has been completed do the exact same process, minus the depth check, on all of the cylinders. Once completed it should look just like this. Now pour your self a stiff cocktail, beer, or non-alcoholic beverage and move onto something else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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