PanzerAce Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 Those who have used it and experienced benefits, are you using it just in the gas tank or oil, or a combination of the two? I'm a bit leery of adding it straight to the intake. I only use it through my tank (kinda hard to do it through the intake with triple mikunis, unless you *want* to start unbolting everything). While in theory its probably find to run it through the sump, I follow the school of thought that says only oil should go into your oil sump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted January 5, 2010 Author Share Posted January 5, 2010 Thanks for all the feedback guys, I can get it at Autozone.com, so I'm going to take down the number and have my local guys order it (since Autozone will do that and not charge shipping) Sounds like it might be good to run through all my cars. But I expect I should do it a day or so before I do an oil change. Phar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModernS30 Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 Thanks for all the feedback guys, I can get it at Autozone.com, so I'm going to take down the number and have my local guys order it (since Autozone will do that and not charge shipping) Sounds like it might be good to run through all my cars. But I expect I should do it a day or so before I do an oil change. Phar yes, do it before oil change, run the entire tank out before you change it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel13brx7 Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 Those who have used it and experienced benefits, are you using it just in the gas tank or oil, or a combination of the two? I'm a bit leery of adding it straight to the intake. I Have actually used it for all 3 Applications as it specifies on the Bottle. I poured 1 bottle in my gas tank. Which worked Amazingly Great to clean my injectors. 1/2 of a bottle in the Oil, which cleans out the botton end of the motor. Then Lastly in the intake, The only thing i recommend you do after you run seafoam in the intake is replacing your Spark plugs. All the Gunk Carbon build up will stick to the plugs. I found this out 3 days after doing it. I was driving on the freeway and all of a sudden my car started loosing power and back firing. It would Puff out the Nastiest smelling smoke ever! I pulled over at a gas station. Check out everything, and pulled a plug. Boy O' Boy where they the darkest most carbon filled plugs ever. Luckily I carry a spare set with me in the car. I swapped them out. Started the car. Problem Gone. =) But Seriously, SeaFoam WORKS GREAT!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jehannum Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 Thanks for all the feedback guys, I can get it at Autozone.com, so I'm going to take down the number and have my local guys order it (since Autozone will do that and not charge shipping) Sounds like it might be good to run through all my cars. But I expect I should do it a day or so before I do an oil change. Phar Just go to O'Reillys or Napa. It's on the shelf. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Two80z4me Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 You guys have no IDEA how excited I am that I opened this thread!!!! My car has been running like it has a minor misfire and stuttering and wont let me rev past 4k like it doesnt have the power. I replaced the plugs, it ran good for a day and promptly went bad again. A month later, I changed the timing and the idle speed and what not, it Ran great again! Low and behold it ran like it is missing again the next day lol. I replaced the fuel filter, it was pretty filled with dirty gas. Im doing the Fusible link swap to a maxi fuse box, and doing the seafoam, ill do both seperatly to post accurate results, but this stuff seriously sounds like magic in a can! Wish me luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModernS30 Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 You guys have no IDEA how excited I am that I opened this thread!!!! My car has been running like it has a minor misfire and stuttering and wont let me rev past 4k like it doesnt have the power. I replaced the plugs, it ran good for a day and promptly went bad again. A month later, I changed the timing and the idle speed and what not, it Ran great again! Low and behold it ran like it is missing again the next day lol. I replaced the fuel filter, it was pretty filled with dirty gas. Im doing the Fusible link swap to a maxi fuse box, and doing the seafoam, ill do both seperatly to post accurate results, but this stuff seriously sounds like magic in a can! Wish me luck. Good luck! Let us know how it goes. I need to do the fusible link fix just after I get my zxt alternator on. Then I will do the fusible link fix and then seafoam. All in time, all in time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jodokast872 Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 I have been lurking in the background for awhile now and I decided to chime in finally. I seafoamed my 2003 Volvo S40 and it runs like new again but what i was wondering (and i am prepared for repercussions) is how i seafoam the intake of my 1978 280z? Ive looked around the forums and apparently it is pretty easy but I am still learning the L28. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 I have been lurking in the background for awhile now and I decided to chime in finally. I seafoamed my 2003 Volvo S40 and it runs like new again but what i was wondering (and i am prepared for repercussions) is how i seafoam the intake of my 1978 280z? Ive looked around the forums and apparently it is pretty easy but I am still learning the L28. You could pull the brake booster line and suck it in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DemonZ Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 I ran it in a relatively expensive porsche motor for 1k miles because I had some noisy lifters. I added Seafoam straight to the engine oil (Mobile 1 sythn.) The lifters did quiet down... but it took some time. Oil was pretty black after 1k mi so I changed it then. I think maybe I've only got 1 sticky lifter left, and planning on doing a second treatment. BTW, I ran 2 track events while on Seafoam, so it won't grenade your motor. I figured my oil was "only" diluted 10% Disclaimer: I have no affiliation with Seafoam, and do not recommend you race your engine on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rolling Parts Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 You guys have no IDEA how excited I am that I opened this thread!!!!...this stuff seriously sounds like magic in a can! Wish me luck. OK, good luck. It's not magic, it's a solvent. It only helps if there is a problem cured by a brief exposure to it. The caution is that adding it can also introduce problems (like adding it to a gunky gas tank will let gunk get picked up into the fuel system, adding to oil releases valve cover gunk suddenly back into the oil system, etc.). Only application I've used it for is to loosen up sticky EFI flappers though any carb type cleaner in a pressurized can work better at aiming it just where it's needed. YMMV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Two80z4me Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 OK, good luck.It's not magic, it's a solvent. It only helps if there is a problem cured by a brief exposure to it. The caution is that adding it can also introduce problems (like adding it to a gunky gas tank will let gunk get picked up into the fuel system, adding to oil releases valve cover gunk suddenly back into the oil system, etc.). Only application I've used it for is to loosen up sticky EFI flappers though any carb type cleaner in a pressurized can work better at aiming it just where it's needed. YMMV. Im only put it through the gas when I fill up next to clean the fuel lines and hopefully injectors out. Its always had a slight hicup in one of the injectors, I did the fusible link swap and that seems to of cured the majority of my problems. but im still using the seafoam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModernS30 Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 Im only put it through the gas when I fill up next to clean the fuel lines and hopefully injectors out. Its always had a slight hicup in one of the injectors, I did the fusible link swap and that seems to of cured the majority of my problems. but im still using the seafoam. I am going to have to do the fusible link swap tomorrow or saturday. Must be done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Two80z4me Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 Finished up my fuse box swap, made a considerable difference. Much smoother, so then I went and filled my tank full of premium like always, and introduced Seafoam to the mix (only the gas) , and just as everyone described it ran smooth and new feeling, had much more "pep" also. now I just need to dial in my timing to get the full effect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motoman Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 They have some at the autozone by me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280znoob Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 To be honest.... i just think it looks cool with alot of smoke... havent noticed a Whole lotta difference, but a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 I use it when the engine is hot as can be. Good hard run, park, seafoam the intake, cut, ten minutes, fire it up, good GOOD hard run. No Mosquitoes Tonight!!!!! Awesome stuff. I'm not convinced it really makes a difference every time but I use it regularly as fuel treatment and intake fogger on all my vehicles. After a while you can tell what smoke is Seafoam smoke (white, with one particular smell) and what smoke is carbon smoke (black, smells like a Datsun) I only use it through my tank (kinda hard to do it through the intake with triple mikunis, unless you *want* to start unbolting everything). While in theory its probably find to run it through the sump, I follow the school of thought that says only oil should go into your oil sump Put it in a spray bottle and hose it on in while the engine is running. OK, good luck.It's not magic, it's a solvent. It only helps if there is a problem cured by a brief exposure to it. The caution is that adding it can also introduce problems (like adding it to a gunky gas tank will let gunk get picked up into the fuel system, adding to oil releases valve cover gunk suddenly back into the oil system, etc.). Only application I've used it for is to loosen up sticky EFI flappers though any carb type cleaner in a pressurized can work better at aiming it just where it's needed. YMMV. BEST POST IN THREAD. I LOVE Seafoam, I SWEAR by it. (They make a penetrating lube called Deep Creep that makes PB Blaster look like WD-40. Pricey but WORTH IT.) But even still, I use and recommend Sea Foam (especially added to motor oil) only with caution. I would NOT pour it into the crankcase of a motor with less than 100K on it, I would not bother using it on an engine I know the history of. I wouldn't use it in the oil of your car unless you have a very specific aim or problem you want to deal with. If you blew a head gasket and want to run it through, great. Ticking lifter on a used car purchased with over 150K on the odometer? I left the Sea Foam in my old Subaru for almost 1000 miles once (yes one thousand) and it was OK. Cleared the lifter up (mostly) and no real problems down the line. BUT, I still don't recommend the product without a word of caution. Using it for a fuel additive, or fogging the intake, are essentially harmless operations. The only risk in fogging the intake is that of overdosing the engine with the liquid and hydrolocking somehow, which seems really unlikely. But adding chemicals and solvents to your motor oil is a risk, regardless what the label says on the product. The people trying to sell you that are trying to sell you that, not take care of your engine. Thats the good people at Mobil and Shell and all those other awful petrol-pumping pinheads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QWKDTSN Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 I also would be extremely leery of using it in the engine oil. If you do use it in the oil, do it right before your oil change. I would not run it in the oil for more than about 10-20 miles but that's just because I am paranoid. It will liquefy any sludge in your engine and put it back in suspension, hopefully to be captured by the oil filter, but it could also possibly clog up small passages. I dumped about 1/10th of a bottle in my Audi because I had it left over, and changed the oil a couple of days later and it was BLACK. I have done the full Seafoam treatment to a Honda Accord wagon and it went great! Sucked it in through the intake, let it soak, fired it up and drove hard for a few miles. Smoked like a mofo and I immediately noticed that it idled smoother and seemed 'peppier' afterwards. Definitely worth doing. I have also dumped an oz. or two into the gas tank of my Honda Helix scooter when I fill up, it's an old engine and I think it's a good idea to run the stuff through the carburetor now and then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjstcroix Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 Hey Guys, Never used seafoam. I've used automatic trans fluid in the crank case of a 100000+ mile Jaguar V12. Also used it in the case of my Superduty diesel p/u. Worked out fine, no adverse affects I've talked to a few vintage mechanics who swear by it. Cleaner OHC/valve assemblies and bottom end internals. The theory is that the trans fluid has a higher level of detergents than regular oil and will remove some of those sludge deposits. The method I've used and seems to be the main stream is to use this just before changing your oil. Run your engine until the oil is hot drain a portion of the oil out and replace the same amount with ATF. Go for a 30-45 minute drive then drain all fluids from the pan. Replace filter. To give you an idea of quantities to try. The Jag carries 10.5 liters of oil. I drained 1 liter and replaced with ATF. The Superduty carries 14 liters. Also did a 1 liter replacement with that one. This is purely anecdotal with no quantitative evidence of "cleanliness of internals" but the basis of the ATF and detergents seems to be a fairly common thing. I've even heard of some guys doing the same with diesel fuel. Try at your own risk. Cheers, RSC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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