Aluminium door hinges for racing FG doors

[thehelix112]

Hey guys,

 

I was lucky enough to pick up some FG doors from John Washington a few weekends ago. Lovely bloke, highly recommended.

Starting to tackle the problem of how to attach the suckers, so trying to line up some aluminium door hinges. The stock steel items are heavy and have unnecessary springs that I think will put undue stress on the door.

Does anyone have any recommendations? I've searched the usual suspects, jegs, summit racing, a1 racing, etc and haven't found much to be honest.

 

I'm also curious about how people would go about a latching mechanism for these doors..

 

Many thanks,

 

Dave

[MREDDLE]

I have been thinking of this for years. I keep coming back to machining a set or finding another car that has some and trying to addapt them to the Z. I hope some has some information on this.

[260DET]

There was someone from Europe on this forum a while ago who had made a set, Netherlands? Frank may know him.

[frank280zx]

There was someone from Europe on this forum a while ago who had made a set, Netherlands? Frank may know him.

 

Jup his name is Ad verkuilen, his stuff is to notch qaulity (so no cheap junk)Since it wasnt made by 5 yo chinese kids, its not cheap either.

You can do business with him and his warrenty and service is fenomonal.

 

www.va-motorsport.com

[Tony D]

I have seen the aforementioned hinges, would quick-release pins work for you...so you can totally remove the door during service stages with no tools? That is the extent to which these parts have been thought out (and in some cases copied from the original works rally cars.)

 

I'll add that the standard striker mechanisim was used on all the FRP doors I saw in Japan. Though those were bought with a Nissan Part number attached to them, so I don't know how sturdily these doors are constructed, and how closely they are to a direct copy of hte original Nissan Competition offerings which utilized stock window regulators, strikers and latches, and hinges sans springs.

[JMortensen]

I like the idea of pinning the passenger door on but not the driver door. Probably wouldn't be that hard to fab up a hinge either.

 

If I recall it is pretty easy to remove the spring from the hinge to reduce the pressure on the door. I wouldn't spend a whole lot of money saving a couple lbs on custom aluminum hinges, just not worth the money for the small gain IMO.

[Snailed]

A very light and inexpensive way to make hinges is to use an L shaped piece coming off the door jamb made with a 3/8" rod facing up and a 1/2" rod going into the body of the car. Then on the door you can fit plates and drill them to hold a 3/8" heim jont with nuts on both sides. The door just simply slides down over the vertical stud and the heims give you adjustment to center the door in the opening and a nice smooth pivot. I have done this on a couple fiberglass doors and it works really well for less than $50

 

here is the same idea but without the heim pivot, just a piece of tube.

[MREDDLE]

I really like the above. Although, I am looking the solution below.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ELI-99610/?rtype=10

[thehelix112]

Tony,

 

The doors are these ones from John's Website:

They seem pretty sturdy to my highly untrained eye/hand, will try to get some FG thicknesses later.

 

As I am on a non-existent budget I think the stock hinges with no spring might be the go as Jon mentions. Not worth the effort for this car for 1lb all round.

Also need to work out the lexan window and latch arrangements at some point, hopefully going to have a play with it this weekend.

 

Would love to see pics of the techniques others have done. While we're (kinda) on the topic, is it generally recommended/required for a race car to have windows that come out for escape in the event of a crash? Or can the windows be mounted fixed up?

 

Many thanks for the awesome replies, those hinges look pretty cool Snailed, unfortunately I don't have access to a welder, so making a set for myself might prove difficult until I do. Great to have a pic for reference later on though.

 

Dave

[Tony D]

I like the idea of pinning the passenger door on but not the driver door. Probably wouldn't be that hard to fab up a hinge either.

 

Your talking about a different pin setup JM. This is a standard-looking Hinge from a Datsun made of aluminium, with a QR Pin acting as the actual hinge pin. It doesn't hold the door on like a conventional 'pin' setup (like on a hood) would, it's a standard part retaining functionality of the hinge, while allowing the door to be quickly removed with two pins (running where the standard Hinge Pin would normally go.)

 

As for diminishing returns, the car I saw them on had titanium gun drilled A-Arm Pivot Bolts, and the aluminum M6 bolts holding the fenders on were judged to be 'too heavy' so they too were replaced with appropriately sized Titanium Fasteners, with a ball mill applied to the head, and then gun drilled (how much do you really need to hold on those Carbon Fiber Fenders, anyway?)

 

And of course, the A-Arms were CrMoly fabrications as well.

 

I believe the rolling chassis sold for $75,000 Euros or thereabouts.

 

It's all a matter of degrees and how serious you are about loosing the weight.

 

I could drop 150+# out of my 240Z, I just need to go on a diet...

[frank280zx]

Ad's cars are just really nicely finished without pining on doors etc.. is it the cheapest way? hell no! are the some of the cleanest cars out there? HELL YES

Some things that Tony seem overrated, but they are not in the eyes of a guy who used to work in F1! and various race teams.. Every gram is one! And it does show in competition, his cars always run top 10 orso (depending on driver etc)

Edited June 9, 2010 by frank280zx

[Tony D]

Yep, it's all a matter of degrees...

[thehelix112]

just thought i'd update with some info:

 

My stock 280Z rhs door as pulled off car with I believe aftermarket mirror weighed in at 65lb (bathroom scales, grain of salt). Reaction research rhs door weighs 11lb. So a saving of 54lb on a single side.

 

Was very easy to get the spring out of the lower hinge, just be sure nt to be sitting in front of it when it lets go. will likely have to cut the guide arm and roller mechanisms off the lower hinge I think, but not a big deal.

 

I need to pull the stock door apart a bit more but will likely reuse the stock latch mechanism and cut the FG door to accept it, assuming an acceptable way of unlocking can be found, and no better ideas surface?

 

Dave

[Snailed]

Nice, I'm surprised they weigh that much. The ones on my car feel so light when you open and close them...but youre the one with the scale. If you are going to just use the stock hinges, maybe you could grind or mill the mounting plates thinner to save some more weight?

[thehelix112]

They do in fact feel very light.

 

Also found these: http://chassisengineering.com/shopDetails.asp?CatId=10&SubCatId=16&ProductId=1692

 

While searching for these: http://chassisengineering.com/shopDetails.asp?CatId=10&SubCatId=17&ProductId=1028

When they say ``Factory striker'', any idea what they're talking about? Oh NM, the bit that bolts to the car I guess?

 

Not too expensive by the looks.

 

Dave

Edited June 14, 2010 by thehelix112

[Lurcher]

I didnt know you were turning the 280 into a full track car, Dave?

[thehelix112]

Not a full track car at this point Lurchybaby. Just lightening things up is a nice cheap(ish) way to make it a bit more fun to drive (as per Colin Chapman).

 

Dave

[Denz]

just thought i'd update with some info:

 

My stock 280Z rhs door as pulled off car with I believe aftermarket mirror weighed in at 65lb (bathroom scales, grain of salt). Reaction research rhs door weighs 11lb. So a saving of 54lb on a single side.

 

Was very easy to get the spring out of the lower hinge, just be sure nt to be sitting in front of it when it lets go. will likely have to cut the guide arm and roller mechanisms off the lower hinge I think, but not a big deal.

 

I need to pull the stock door apart a bit more but will likely reuse the stock latch mechanism and cut the FG door to accept it, assuming an acceptable way of unlocking can be found, and no better ideas surface?

 

Dave

 

Dave,

I am a new member and have been searching all over for how to pull the door hinges off of my 76 280Z. There is a load popping sound coming from the hinge when opening the driver’s door. Looks like some sort of bushing the hinge is riding on that is popping very load. I have been afraid that the spring will let go if I unbolt the hinge and cause havoc. Any help or links would be appreciated....

 

Thanks

 

Denz